MicroAce 922 Dr Yellow decoder install

[mrpig]

Here is my decoder install in the 0496 MicroAce 922 Dr Yellow. I used a TCS M1. I am not as happy with this install as my milled Tomix ones because the decoder is visible through the windows. Couldn’t think of anywhere else to put it though.

I forgot to take photos of the motor removed but you should still get the idea of how I did this part of the install.

Once the shell and bottom detail have been removed we need to pull one of the trucks in order to remove the motor. Not sure how I didn’t break anything here as I had no Idea how to pull it apart. It is obvious when it is in pieces.


Photo #1
This shows the ridge on the truck that is engaged by the top clip part.

Photo #2
This is the part of the retainer that engages the ridge on the truck. See, told you it was obvious.
Be careful not to lose the small bush on the end of the worm drive.

Photo #3
A close-up of the retainer.

[mrpig]

Photo #4
This is an overall view of the attached motor wires. I drilled 2 small holes in the end of the floor, get them as close to the edge as possible. Remember to feed the wires through the floor first, then through the holes in the insulating strip before soldering them to the motor. Also remember to get red & orange on the right and black & gray on the left.

Photo #5
The contacts on the motor have been cut down and the wires soldered to the top. The wires then sit in the slots on top of the small plastic spacer, where you can see the wire doing a dog leg. I then super glued the wires into the corners to keep them away from the flywheel.

 
Photo #6
I put a bit of kapton tape over the solder joints just in case.

[mrpig]

Photo #7
This is where I would start next around. Solder the power wires to the top of the pickups as seen here. I needed 5 hands here, would have only needed 3 if I did this part first. Make sure the motor wires are on the outside of the power wires. Otherwise you will do this part twice like I did. I spent a bit too long here with the iron and had to brighten up the contact strips after they became discolored from heat.

Photo #8
Next we have to refit the truck before the floor can go back on.

Photo #9
Make sure the motor wires are right over at the edges once the floor is clipped on. This part was a bit fiddly and took a few goes to get just right. You can just see the gray wire in front of the flywheel.

[mrpig]

Photo #10
These holes need to be closer to the sides than I drilled them. The closer they are to the edge, the better the wire sits under the floor.

Photo #11
The black bit is the pivot pin on the truck.

Photo #12
I used a small piece of foam tape to mount the decoder.

[mrpig]

Photo #13
The foam tape lifts the decoder off the floor just enough to leave a small gap between the top of the pivot pin and the bottom of the decoder.

Photo #14
I used another bit of tape here to keep the wires in place.

Photo #15
Check that the coupler centering springs are still in the correct position before you refit the bottom detail. Both of mine had popped out of the tiny slots on one side of each coupler.


That’s it. Do a test run. Then put it all back together and go play.

[Bernard]

Again, a very nice tutorial.
You use the TCS M1 decoder, I'm not familiar with it, who makes it and have you used the Digitrax DZ125 decoder? (They're easy to get in the USA, most LHS and online stores carry them)

[CaptOblivious]

Very nice indeed!

Bernard: TCS makes the M1 decoder: http://www.tcsdcc.com/ Very easy to get in the US; they're based out of New Jersey, as I recall. They've become my new favorite manufacturer. The M1 is comparable to the DZ125 in size and functionality.

[Bernard]

I don't want to change the thread but I have to ask, do you prefer the M1 to the DZ 125 and if so why? 
Thanks for the link, they have a cute page on their website w/photos of their staff. Seems like a very friendly company.

[CaptOblivious]

I don't want to change the thread but I have to ask, do you prefer the M1 to the DZ 125 and if so why? 
Thanks for the link, they have a cute page on their website w/photos of their staff. Seems like a very friendly company.

mrpig, I'm sure, has his own opinion, which I'd love to hear. I've never used the M1, but I am using their FL4 function-only decoder. It is much more flexible than the Digitrax T4. Moreover, they really are very friendly people, and have been very patient in answer all sorts of obscure questions I've put to them—contrast with Digitrax's often curt and cryptic replies to similar questions. When I get my TCS CN-GP installed in my Tomix EF81, I'll do a fuller review of their motor decoders.

[mrpig]

I had just decided to try out the M1 about 6 months back. I was doing an order from a certain US shop that has just closed down. About three of my items turned up with no explanations, then 3 months later 8 M1's landed in my po box, I had all but written them off but at least I was not charged until they shipped. MB Klein is a good source and has the FL4 in the 5 packs which works out cheaper.

I have found the M1 is very slightly thinner than the DZ125 but slightly wider, nothing to worry about. The M1 really shines in low speed, but that's not really much of an issue on an express train. I like the idea of transponding though on the Digitrax. Don't know if I will ever use it but it would be good for a couple of automatic trains in the background.

I was using the Lenz LF101XF for head/tail lights. You only need to use the white and yellow wires because they can be set to swap polarity on direction change. It is a bit pricey though and huge compared to the FL4 and TF4. I have a bunch of FL4's that I am about to start installing. As CaptOblivious said, they are much more flexible than the TF4.

I am a little bit sus on Digitrax quality control. My PR91 did not respond to the DT400R in radio mode straight out of the box. To their credit, it was promptly repaired under warranty. They said it needed to be retuned. I also have 2 diesel drop in decoders dead out of the packet. One will only drive in reverse and the other just sits there with both lights on and will not accept any programming. They have both been swapped with other locos and decoders and reset numerous times.

[Bernard]

I also order from MB Klein and now I see the M1 decoder, price wise it's comparable to the DZ 125 (more expensive from the manufacture)
You're going to find that I'm full of questions so here is my nest one, since size can be a problem with some trains, can you install the Z2 decoder, meant for "z scale", into an "N scale" train?
http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoder/Z-Scale/Z2.php

[mrpig]

The Z2 looks promising. The main thing too look for is the current capability and 1 amp is more than enough for our purposes. The DZ125 and M1 are both 1 amp decoders as well, don't take too much notice of peak ratings as these are only for a very short period of time.

[CaptOblivious]

I also order from MB Klein and now I see the M1 decoder, price wise it's comparable to the DZ 125 (more expensive from the manufacture)
You're going to find that I'm full of questions so here is my nest one, since size can be a problem with some trains, can you install the Z2 decoder, meant for "z scale", into an "N scale" train?
http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoder/Z-Scale/Z2.php

Yes you can. Specs aside (mrpig is spot-on in his analysis), I have confirmed this with Jordan, their tech. I'm really excited about this decoder in particular, as I think it's going to open a few previously shut conversion doors.

[CaptOblivious]

I was using the Lenz LF101XF for head/tail lights. You only need to use the white and yellow wires because they can be set to swap polarity on direction change. It is a bit pricey though and huge compared to the FL4 and TF4. I have a bunch of FL4's that I am about to start installing. As CaptOblivious said, they are much more flexible than the TF4.

If only I had known about that decoder about a month ago, I wouldn't have blown $40 on electronics components to build an external circuit to mimic the polarity swapping feature with my TCS FL4…