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Author Topic: Air Brushing - Starting points  (Read 167 times)
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inobu 

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« on: February 07, 2010, 04:53:09 AM »

He is an example of a MiJack airbrushed machine yellow. The model was orange plastic.

As you can see the detail of the door handle is still visible, even the mesh screen is rendered (zoom in on image). The ability to maintain such detail is in the control of the volume of paint sprayed. There are factors that play into achieving this level of results. Now that we can see what an air brush can do, lets understand the basics.

Air brushes uses air to apply paint. The amount of paint delivered depends on the size of the brush or in this case the size of the needle, valve and tip. The needles and tips are banded 1,3 or 5 (Paasche). This is your size indicators.

When the paint is siphoned by the air through the airbrush it is atomized into a mist. The density of this mist depends on the opening of the tip and how much the needle is pulled back. The recommended dual action brush allows you to control the amount of air and paint. This gives you the control needed to create realistic clouds and sky lines on your back drop, fading in the blues and whites with touches of grays highlights the sky scene just as matt finishes on your building can look like concrete.

The viscosity of the paint is important. Thick paint with a small valve will do nothing by clog just as thin paint with a large valve will run and spit. You must maintain a balance in order to shoot a great finish.

Air supply has its contributing factor that proves to sway or deter people from using an air brushed. It is either the poor results or the excessive noise of the compressor that drive them crazy. Unfortunately the starter kits starts us off on the wrong foot. Although they are in the right price range it does not provide us with the air we need to shoot N-Scale modeling. The small compressors have diaphragms that creates pulses of air that can be seen on the finish. Because of these pulses the painter will try to correct the finish and end up applying multiple coats covering the small details or ruining the model.

The best compressors are the oil type with a few gallon air tanks. These are more so refrigerators motors, quiet and costly but well worth the money. There are issues where oil enters the air stream but traps are placed in line to remove the oil. Any compressor that can maintain 116 psi with an integrated tank should work. You want the tanks to maintain a steady air flow. Someone mentioned using and filling an air tank but the problem is the steady loss of air. This causes an uneven pattern. Eventually you will lose pressure and the brush will die off. It if dies at the wrong time it will spit on your work of art and ruin it.  

There is no cheap way around "Good" airbrushing and no better way of adding the finishing touches on your layout.  
        
Inobu
  
 

  
  


    
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 05:54:12 AM by inobu » Logged
quinntopia 

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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2010, 06:46:10 AM »

Inobu,  thanks for sharing this.  I've long struggled with airbrushing. 

Do you have any recommendations on paint brands?  I've tried to use the Polly Scale paints (a water based paint) but they don't seem to work all that well consistently (perhaps they go 'bad' after sitting for some time?) and have wondered if I should try another brand before giving up on air-brushing altogether.  The alternative would be to invest in a new compressor (I am using an old one right now that was hand-me-down from my father) that I suspect may also be the problem (to your point, I'm not entirely sure its generating the pressure it needs to get the paint through the nozzle, although it does fine with water!).

Any suggestions?
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Bernard 
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2010, 03:46:20 PM »

Inobu - Thanks for the info and the nice results you got with your model. I have a question about the adjustment of air compressor. Is there a recommended setting range? I have an Iwata compressor with an adjustment knob:
http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Sprint_Jet_Air_Compressor.html
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Martijn Meerts 
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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2010, 09:05:54 PM »

Do you have any recommendations on paint brands?  I've tried to use the Polly Scale paints (a water based paint) but they don't seem to work all that well consistently (perhaps they go 'bad' after sitting for some time?) and have wondered if I should try another brand before giving up on air-brushing altogether. 

A lot of modelers use Gunze Sangyo paints, but they tend to be difficult to get. I've used Tamiya myself for pretty much everything when I switched from enamel to acrylics. I'm going to try some Gunze on my Gundam models, finally found a store that has the stuff in stock, so I don't have to try and import it ;)
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inobu 

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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2010, 09:08:37 PM »

quinntopia,

There's really not one brand of paint but more so the type.  There are acrylic, lacquer, enamels , water base, oil base the list goes on. Here is the most important point. Being that you can airbrush anything it is critical to choose a paint that will stick or adhere to the surface of the model best. I have mostly Tamiya and Createx because they are easy to get for me and it just a choice.

As for the compressor both you and Bernard are going through ABSS (Air Brush Starter Syndrome) I went through it too. We know and can see the great uses of the brush and go for that starter compressor.

My story

I got my compressor from a manicurist that complained the air brush setup did not work for nails. I bought it and realized that she was not thinning out the nail polish and clogging her needle. My ABSS hit me when I could not get a smooth finish and was ready to quit, fortunately for me I started to ask around and was told to get a better compressor and I saw the difference.

Here is the hidden truth about these starter compressor that we miss. CFM Cubic feet per minute.

Bernard I'll use your compressor data for example.

Features:
Zero maintenance oil-less piston air compressor
Powerful 1/8 hp motor
Moisture-filter also prevents pulsation
Mounted air pressure gauge
Bleed valve airflow adjustment to adjust air pressure
Working pressure from 1 psi to 35 psi
High strength polyurethane air hose fits all Iwata airbrushes
On/off switch

Air Flow: .64 CFM (18 lpm)
Weight: 8 LBS (3.8 kgs)
Size: 10 x 7 x 6 IN. (25 x 18 x 16 cm)
 


These smaller compressor numbers are max levels at 100% duty cycles which just is not enough for consistent spraying. You want to run 50 to 75% of you max. That formula just cuts the efficiency level down too much.

A tanked system can maintain about .7 CFM to 2 CFM, .5 to 3 gallons of air @ 80 psi at all times depending on the model. The number presented are about 50% duty cycle. This setup delivers a constant level of air to drive most types of paint.

Here is a good way to visualize it.

We all know DPI (Dots per inch). The higher the dpi the better the quality. In painting the atomization is the mixing of air and paint particles. These particles of air and paint creates the dots. The more air you can push the more dot you have therefore a higher DPI or finer mist of paint which we call a coat.  

There is just not enough variation or range in these smaller compressor to drive the atomization we need in N-scale.

Hope this helps and I encourage you to keep at it.

Inobu



      
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 09:14:52 PM by inobu » Logged
Martijn Meerts 
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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2010, 09:16:18 PM »

I have a cheap compressor and airbrush as well. It's not all that bad if you just want to spray larger portions with a single color. It's no good for detail stuff though, and the compressor doesn't like being turned on all that much.

I also don't have a water filter thingy, so I can't use the airbrush all that long without taking a break. I should get a filter, but I actually really just need a better compressor.

The airbrush itself is a dual action, and not all that bad. It doesn't have this nice feature that I've seen with some Iwata, where you can limit how far the needle can open up, so in effect you can regulate the maximum amount of paint. This is especially nice when doing shading.

I did get quite a decent, smooth coat of paint with my first attempt, but then again, I have spray painted cars before when I worked in a car workshop. So I had some experience, albeit on a slightly larger scale ;)
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quinntopia 

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« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2010, 03:03:27 AM »

Thanks Inobu, that is encouraging!  I should have also mentioned that the compressor goes 'on' and 'off' in about a 10 second cycle, so I suspect the compressor is at fault.
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« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2010, 10:48:12 PM »

Do you have any recommendations on paint brands?  I've tried to use the Polly Scale paints (a water based paint) but they don't seem to work all that well consistently (perhaps they go 'bad' after sitting for some time?) and have wondered if I should try another brand before giving up on air-brushing altogether. 

A lot of modelers use Gunze Sangyo paints, but they tend to be difficult to get. I've used Tamiya myself for pretty much everything when I switched from enamel to acrylics. I'm going to try some Gunze on my Gundam models, finally found a store that has the stuff in stock, so I don't have to try and import it ;)

If you want to go Gunze Sangyo/GSI creos get the Aquarius Hobby Paint and not Mr. Color. Mr. Color is lacquer while Aquarius is acrylic.
Try Tamiya their stuff is great because you can get lacquer, enamel and acrylic all in the same place.
Also a word on Tamiya lacquer. USE A RESPIRATOR and wash off all plastic to be sprayed. (Wash off as in use a dish soap.)
Happy Spraying!
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