kato tgv bodyshell

[waldoman33]

hello, could somebody please give some guidance on removing a kato tgv bodyshell. It is the 10-909 atlantique version. I think the same as the orange. I have removed the rear door frame and the counterweight trim and spoiler and scre but can't seem to work off shell. or point out a post I have missed in my search. Thank-you kindly.

[Webskipper]

Easy as pie.

No screws.

Take a look at this TGV picture. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10132756a4/20/4

Remove the black door frame piece. It locks the shell to the chassis.

From there you'll need 2 martini toothpicks to shimmy the shell off or it may just slip off by spreading the rear edges of the shell.

Show us the light board so we can see which decoder is needed. This is handy for those of us that have DCC.

[waldoman33]

Thanks for the reply. I will give that a try.
Now...where did I see those toothpicks?
Thanks very much

[Spaceman Spiff]

Here are some pics for you Webskipper. The original Kato board and one of my TGV's with the aftermarket board (sorry cant remember the brand name of the board) and NEM plug decoder. I really like the TGV series but they are finicky when it comes to contact, hence all the kapton tape securing the boards. I have had my fleet apart so many times for contact issues I don't need toothpics lol.

I have always wonder if the Digitrax decoder for the Kato GE 42 Series would work. The loco looks to be same as the TGV series according to the Digitrax install directions.

http://www.digitrax.com/ftp/DN163K0aInstr0708.pdf

Spiff

[nik_n_dad]

@Webskipper:

If there isn't a NEM651 socket, you need an "ESU KATO147456" replacement board.  Unfortunately, I can no longer find them online anywhere (oddly, I only need 1, and not the pair).  Places where I've gotten them in the past are out and say they can't get any so they may be gone (or maybe someone else has an idea, or spares?)  IF, you can find this board, a plug-in 6-pin decoder often won't work.  Well, it works, but you can't get the shell back on; the pantograph gets in the way.  What I've done is to use the TCS EUN651P-18 decoder with a very short harness. 

http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_58&products_id=410

caboose hobbies in Denver stocks them at a good price and will ship.

if you can't find the ESU board, somewhere I have some instructions on how to chop and whack the factory board and use a 6-pin decoder.  TCS makes this same decoder with a short harness without the 6-pin plug

@Spiff:

I've tried that Digitrax decoder (since I can't find the ESU boards) and couldn't get it to work.  It seems like it should, and i might go back to it again someday.  The other issue with the Digitrax is first you have to mess with the LEDs to get them both pointing up front (without shorting), get the colors right (forward/reverse), get the LEDs lined up with the light tubes, and get it all to happen without the board lifting from the less-than optimal mounting "system" and keep the shell on with all that.  It seems that once the shell's been off a few times on this model, they pop off too easily.

[Spaceman Spiff]

Hi nik_n_dad, It never occurred to me about the lighting issues.  When I bought my first TGV I got two boards with the purchase which was a good thing because I ended up using it with the AVE I got later on.  The Duplex that I bought was DCC friendly so it was straight forward. I used a lenz decoder on the first TGV and digitrax for the last two. I wonder if the duplex loco board will fit the regular TGV's. I will try to have a look at this later on today or tomorrow.

Spiff

[Webskipper]

All 3 of the TGV's the Kato Lemke released around the time of the new Thalys are plug-n-play DCC.

Both my K10917 and K010918 are using TCS EUR651 decoders in each cab car.

The end cars are programmed with the same 4 digit address as the motor car and get a CV29=51 to create the directional lighting.  Should that not work then reset to factory and repeat.