Decoder install - Series 251 Superview Odoriko

[alpineaustralia]

I have just installed a Digitrax DZ125 decoder in my Kato Series 251 Superview Odoriko and thought people might want to see how I did it.

The Series 251 Superview Odoriko has large windows and the latest Kato version also factory fitted lights.  The trick was therefore to ensure that the decoder could be fitted without seeing either the decoder or any wires.

First, I dismantled the train in the following order:

1.   separating the bogies from the metal chassis;
2.   separating the turquoise under-body from the chassis;
3.   carefully remove the shell off the chassis - this train is the most difficult to dismantle as the shell is particularly tight. The best way that I found was to work off the ends of the carriage and separate with your fingernail the turquoise end pieces from the shell.; and
4.   carefully remove the blue plastic section representing the "seats" together with the light and clear plastic lens from the chassis – I will call this the "blue light section".

This leaves you with the bogies, the turquoise under-body, the shell, the chassis and the blue light section (representing the "seats" holding the light and a clear plastic lens) (figure #1).

I then cut electrical tape into strips approximately 6mm (approx a ¼ of an inch) wide (figure #2).

I turned over the blue light section and used these strips to isolate the copper strips that run the length of train body.  I also taped a strip over the section where the brass motor pick ups wrap around the blue light section and may otherwise come on contact with the copper strips (figure #3).

[alpineaustralia]

Figures #4 and 5 show what the blue light section looks like from the top after the electrical tape has been used to isolate the copper strips.

A wider strip of electrical tape is taped into the well in which the motor sits at across the section where the brass motor pick ups may otherwise come in contact with the metal chassis (figure #6).

I also taped a strip over the metal sections of the light which may otherwise come on contact with the metal chassis (figure #7).

[alpineaustralia]

I refixed the blue light section to the chassis.  To ensure that the decoder is out of sight I have decide to fix my decoder above the light.  To do this, I placed a piece of double sided tape over the light fitting.  The Digitrax DZ 125 decoder is covered by a red plastic sleeve that extends past the end of the decoder.  I cut the excess plastic sleeve off the decoder to minimise the length of the decoder (being careful not to accidentally damage the decoder itself) and fitted it onto the double sided tape (figure #8).

I also fitted double sided tape to the area just beneath the light fitting. This will ensure that the wires will be able to be directed and kept together to assist in concealing them (figure #9).

I replace the clear plastic lens and place the red and orange wires on one side of the clear plastic lens and the black and grey wires on the other, using the double sided tape to hold in place.  (figure #10).

Finally, I solder the red and black wires to the top of the copper strips that run the length of train body.  I also solder the orange and grey wires to the brass motor pick ups as shown in the final picture.  I then carefully manoeuvre the orange and grey wires so as to run down the middle of the train.  (figure #11). The red and black are then also manoeuvred to run down the middle of the train. Once this is done, a strip of black electrical tape of approximately 4mm wide is placed over the wires and the parts are put back. 

The overall effect is that, once the shell is replaced, if you look hard enough you can see some black sections within the carriage but no wires and no decoder.

[CaptOblivious]

Alpine,

Very nice job! Why the tape behind the light unit? Are you going to wire those to the decoder, too?

More questions: Do the light units use bulbs or LEDs? If bulbs, will you try anything to rectify the AC DCC signal to keep them from overheating, or do you have reason to think they'll be OK?

[Martijn Meerts]

Nice, have you worked out how to do the end-cars yet? =)

[Bernard]

Fantastic job! That is one set that is very hard to hide the wires because of the wide windows. Nice photo step by step process.

[alpineaustralia]

Q: Why the tape behind the light unit?
A:  At the back of the light, there are contacts that may come in contact with the metal chassis. The tape is a precaution to ensure there is no short through these contacts.

Q: Are you going to wire those to the decoder, too?
A: Was not thinking of doing that other wise I would have to wire every single carriage as they all have factory fitted lights

Q: Do the light units use bulbs or LEDs?
A: Bulbs

Q:If bulbs, will you try anything to rectify the AC DCC signal to keep them from overheating, or do you have reason to think they'll be OK?
A: So far they only seem to get warm if they start to get hot, I may insulate the roof of the train and the decoder with the silver inslating tape that normally comes with the Kato LEDs.

Q: have you worked out how to do the end-cars yet? =)?
A: Not yet and to be honest, I am to game to try. This is one of the more difficult trains to work on. For the moment, I can live with white headlights and red tailights being on at the same time.

Thanks for the comments guys.
 

[donwa2]

Outstanding!
Thanks very much for providing such a comprehensive guide...