The Beginnings of a Desktop Layout

[Sir Madog]

I have finally gotten around to start work on my new desktop layout, using mini-modules similar to the T-Trak design.





Progress will be slow, as I have to save up some funds before I can continue. But even this little roundy-rounder is also lots of fun.

The track plan I´ll be going for looks like this:

[Martijn Meerts]

Nice.. You used the exact dimension the Japanese guy uses for his mini-modules?

[Sir Madog]

That´s what I did, Martijn. It´s a near perfect fit for my desk. I do use the slightly bigger radius, though. 249 mm is not enough...

[Martijn Meerts]

How sturdy are the connections between the modules? I'm guessing the only thing keeping them together is the Uni-joiner right?

I'm tempted to use Unitrack for my mini-modules as well instead of Peco flex, but I can't imagine the connection between the modules will hold up in the long run...

[disturbman]

Well, you can always improvise something sturdy and cheap, like screwing temporarily the modules together.

[Sir Madog]

How sturdy are the connections between the modules? I'm guessing the only thing keeping them together is the Uni-joiner right?

I'm tempted to use Unitrack for my mini-modules as well instead of Peco flex, but I can't imagine the connection between the modules will hold up in the long run...

Yup, connection is made only via the rail joiners, but that´s quite OK, as the modules are resting on my desk and are not going to be moved. They are strong enough to keep the modules in place. As you can see in the picture, there is a 2 mm gap between the modules. This is to slide a screwdriver in between the modules for disassembly.

I more or less strictly followed what I saw in that link from Japan, and all I can say for now is that it works nicely.

[Darklighter]

Well, you can always improvise something sturdy and cheap, like screwing temporarily the modules together.

As the rail extends 1mm beyond the module end, you might damage the track if you screw the modules together, I guess.

[Martijn Meerts]

Screwing would be possible, but there are some issues with that. For example, if you take the module in the rear with the bridge, once you've added scenery, you can't really use screws anymore, or at least, not in an easy way.

Just the Uni-joiner connection works fine as long as the modules are just for yourself, but I fear that if the modules are taken to a show, they won't stand up to being bumped into repeatedly. In this case, it's not an issue since it's more of a personal layout, but if you're building something that's to be set up at shows, something a bit more sturdy is required. Also, the strength depends a bit on the layout as well. If you have a small-ish oval, there's enough rigidity from just setting up the modules. If you have a long stretch (say, a point to point tram layout of about 15-20 modules in length), it's a lot more vulnerable.

(I might also be overthinking this, I have a tendency to do so :))

[Sir Madog]

I have seen videos of meets they have in Japan, where they put up huger layouts consisting of these modules. They are always set up on tables with some kind of "clearance" to avoid spectators "bumping" into the layout.

The rail joiners will eventually wear out, but that´s no big deal, as they can easily be replaced.

[disturbman]

As the rail extends 1mm beyond the module end, you might damage the track if you screw the modules together, I guess.

A detail I had overlooked but you can add a 2mm thick buffer piece between the two modules that will be part of the scewing mechanism.

Screwing would be possible, but there are some issues with that. For example, if you take the module in the rear with the bridge, once you've added scenery, you can't really use screws anymore, or at least, not in an easy way.

Good remark. This is a real problem. But I can see a way out of it, you mostly need to let 2 to 3 cm of bare wood under the lowest module floor.

Anyway. I'm really interested to see how Madog's layout is going to turn out. I've been thinking about that type of layouts since 2009. Back then, I even had started to build something only out of foamcore and with the help of a hot glue gun. They are still somewhere taking dust.

[keitaro]

A cheap and nasty alternative is to get the child proof door locks you would put on you cupboard doors to stop the little ones from getting in have the attaching from one mode side to the other tightly. Then can easily clip off and on when wishing to move.

We use these clear ones that stick using some adhesive and can handle a fair amount of pull so would definately keep this held together nicely

[Sir Madog]

A cheap and nasty alternative is to get the child proof door locks you would put on you cupboard doors to stop the little ones from getting in have the attaching from one mode side to the other tightly. Then can easily clip off and on when wishing to move.

We use these clear ones that stick using some adhesive and can handle a fair amount of pull so would definately keep this held together nicely

Good idea - I always like the quick & dirty approach. Might look into that, should I be going to a meet.

[Martijn Meerts]

I have seen videos of meets they have in Japan, where they put up huger layouts consisting of these modules. They are always set up on tables with some kind of "clearance" to avoid spectators "bumping" into the layout.

The rail joiners will eventually wear out, but that´s no big deal, as they can easily be replaced.

I did see pictures of the layout at a show .. Guess the joiners are more sturdy then they initially appear :)

Screwing would be possible, but there are some issues with that. For example, if you take the module in the rear with the bridge, once you've added scenery, you can't really use screws anymore, or at least, not in an easy way.

Good remark. This is a real problem. But I can see a way out of it, you mostly need to let 2 to 3 cm of bare wood under the lowest module floor.

The disadvantage of that is that there's little space to get good grip on the screw/bolt/but. These modules are mostly set up on tabletops, so you won't be able to reach them from underneath. You can't lay them on the side either once you've connect several modules, or have them set up as an oval. You'd likely need some more space, but then you might end up with the modules not being deep enough.

It's all theory though, in practice it might actually be very doable.

A cheap and nasty alternative is to get the child proof door locks you would put on you cupboard doors to stop the little ones from getting in have the attaching from one mode side to the other tightly. Then can easily clip off and on when wishing to move.

We use these clear ones that stick using some adhesive and can handle a fair amount of pull so would definately keep this held together nicely

I was thinking of using something like this to keep the modules together http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/303828695/Display_Box_Clamp.html . Disadvantage is of course that people can just reach out and undo those clamps :)

[Darklighter]

I was thinking of using something like this to keep the modules together http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/303828695/Display_Box_Clamp.html . Disadvantage is of course that people can just reach out and undo those clamps :)

The ones in your link look like they can be locked by a padlock... 

[Martijn Meerts]

I was thinking of using something like this to keep the modules together http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/303828695/Display_Box_Clamp.html . Disadvantage is of course that people can just reach out and undo those clamps :)

The ones in your link look like they can be locked by a padlock... 

Hehe.. Would be a bit expensive on the padlocks though.. But, one could use cable ties to "lock" the clamps. Cheap and easy :)

[Sir Madog]

One thing just came to my mind - the easiest (and, most likely, cheapest) way of keeping the modules from making a move is to put some rubber tape underneath them. Stops them from moving on slick surfaces.

[Martijn Meerts]

One thing just came to my mind - the easiest (and, most likely, cheapest) way of keeping the modules from making a move is to put some rubber tape underneath them. Stops them from moving on slick surfaces.

That might actually do the trick in combination with the Uni-joiner connection.

[Sir Madog]

I will run to my local home improvement place and give this a try. I am pretty sure it´ll work.

[Sir Madog]

I tried my hand at ballasting the Unitrack and the result looks like this:



Far from being perfect, but still a lot better than the plastic look.

[Bernard]

I tried my hand at ballasting the Unitrack and the result looks like this:



Far from being perfect, but still a lot better than the plastic look.

I like your results....in particular the rust on the rails looks great!

[Sir Madog]

Just one more pic, this time taken with a flash:



The rust on the rails was done by spray-painting the track with a dark brown color, using the good old rattle can.

[cteno4]

Madog,

great little modular layout! going to be quite fun. i have looked at that style of module a lot and will be interested in seeing how it works out for you.

we ran into the similar set of module connections on the jrm layout. our modules are a bit bigger and usually have 4 or more track connections between modules so really the unijoiners can hold all the module connections, but we decided that it would be best with a larger layout to take some extra steps.

first i pre drilled all the end pieces of the modules with two 6mm holes about 5cm in from each side. in these then we put alternating dowel pegs that stick out about 20mm. this gives us a very tight positional lock on the modules to guide in the unijoiners and take most of the strain if for some reason the module joints get a nasty whack or bend somehow. only downside is that you really need to do this before you build your modules to get things to line up well and universally. i built a little jig so i could drill all the end pieces before assembly identically (and made a bunch extra for future expansion modules).

second we put threaded inserts into the bottom side of each end of each module in the center. we have a sort of girder system that is slightly smaller than the modules that rest on sawhorses or tables and the modules rest on these. we then have cross pieces in the girders where each of the module joints is and have a small thumb=bolt that goes through a hole (larger than the bolt to give us some wiggle room) and into the threaded insert in the bottom ends of the modules. once all the modules are clipped together by the track joiners the thumb-bolts lock it down to the girder and thus the whole layout is then locked together very solidly. You could perhaps do this with your layout and a sheet of plywood and just counter sink the bolts or raise the plywood up with a strip of moulding around the edges. this then would lock the modules onto your bottom board well and thus make a very tight connection w/o having to try to bold modules to each other. then you could pick the whole little layout up together and move it or even store it vertically or transport it.

im thinking that any sort of latch between modules is going to tend to kink up your track some. in both my ttrak modules and the jrm modules once you clip the modules together you need to do a tad of wiggling to get all the joints to settle in just right. with your 2mm module gap, using a clamp or latch would then probably undo your settle in wiggle and thus may cause problems. thats why i think perhaps bolting to a sheet of plywood may let you keep your wiggle (just drill your holes in the ply base a bit larger for some wiggle room) but at the same time really lock the modules down in the settled in configuration. we looked at latches with the jrm layout, but in the end they had the above problem, were very bulky even with our larger modules (05.m x 1m) and they aint cheap...

keep the picts coming, great to watch this evolve!

cheers

jeff

[Sir Madog]

Been working on my bridge module today:

[Bernard]

Will you be adding water to the module?

[Sir Madog]

Yes, definitively! There will be a little stream under the bridge.

[Sir Madog]

Just a quick update - the bridge module now looks like this:



Far from being finished, but a big step ahead.

[Kumo]

Looking great!
A bit of weathering on the bridge and walls would give a final touch!

[Sir Madog]

Just did that - and also added ballast to the track. Can´t take pictures yet, it needs to dry before I touch it again. I also need to add water, but that will have to wait until I get my bottle of E-Z water from WS. Woodland Scenics products are hard to get in my neck of the woods.

[disturbman]

If it's a mountain stream you don't necessarily need to add water to the river bed. They often are only rocky in the summer.

[Webskipper]

Try mini clamps or use the splined pins to hold the modules together.

When in doubt use a bolt.

[Sir Madog]

"Eizan Electric Rlwy. Series 900 EMU "Kirara" Crosses Takano River"



The modul is now nearly finished - I am still pondering whether to add water or not. I am modeling April/may period, so there should be water in that river. Work on the next modul will commence on coming weekend.

[Martijn Meerts]

Great stuff! You should make a module for the project party =)

[Sir Madog]

Martijn,

I might actually do, but that depends on the availability of some materials I need before I can continue working on the next module. It´ll be a tunnel module, which is going to be left of the bridge module.

Still a long way to go until I have an operational layout.

[keitaro]

great module though.

IMO i would add water but just a trickle so it looks drying up. that way if you buy a small bottle of realistic water you will have plenty left for any other modules.

[disturbman]

Great... You really know what you are doing. :)

And, I will say, keep it like that,without any water. At least for the moment, if you really miss its presence you can always add it later. :)

[Sir Madog]

great module though.

IMO i would add water but just a trickle so it looks drying up. that way if you buy a small bottle of realistic water you will have plenty left for any other modules.

That´s exactly what I am intending to do. Thanks for the kudos!

[Kumo]

Sweet! I love it!

[Sir Madog]

It was a hot and humid day today, so I spent the better part of it in a friend´s basement. The result of that you can see here:

[Sir Madog]

Still sweltering hot outside, but nevertheless I decided to go forward and plant bushes & shrubs to the module:

[Toni Babelony]

That looks sweet! Now some weathering (soot on the tunnel entrance, rust, braking sand, etc.), a few long grasses and you're done :)

[Sir Madog]

That looks sweet! Now some weathering (soot on the tunnel entrance, rust, braking sand, etc.), a few long grasses and you're done :)

That´s what´s going to happen in the next days - too hot to do anything today.

[Martijn Meerts]

Gonna be great seeing the whole layout put together eventually :)

[Sir Madog]

You´ll have to bear with me for some time. I have run out of material & funds for this year ... :(

[Mudkip Orange]

VERY nice.

[Hobby Dreamer]

You've done a GREAT JOB!!

You put a lot of time and effort in and it really shows!!! What's great about this hobby is that you labour at it and then get a great result.. 

Nice to see steam engines as well

Good work!!


cheers
Rick

[KenS]

That tunnel portal looks great. The guardrail at the top, and the way the vegetation has overrun the stone retaining wall are particularly nice touches.

[Bernard]

Excellent work and you did in record time!

[Sir Madog]

Thanks for all the kudos!

The module still needs a little touch up, like blackening the tunnel portal where soot, cinders and grime from the steam locos have dirtied it, but I have run out of black paint.

Building this module did not take much time - the benchwork is done in 30 minutes, laying the track takes 5 minutes. Ballasting  Kato´s Unitrack is a bit of a tedious job, which took me about 2 hours, excluding drying time.

Adding all hours up, it´s just a nice weekend job.

[Sir Madog]

I was able to do only a few little touch-ups, but the result is rewarding.

Here are a couple of shots I´d like to share:



... and my favorite:

[Sir Madog]

The tunnel mini-module is now complete - nothing to added, unless I find a figure of a "spray can artist".