Problem with DIY Terminal Unijoiner Method

[scott]

A while back, I realized that we need many more power connections to our Unitrack loops. After reading this post, I bought a bunch of wire and connecting blocks so that I could do this without buying a bunch of Kato terminal uni-joiners, which seem really expensive for what they are.

The post describes how to connect wires to regular uni-joiners, and it says that "[t]his technique has no adverse consequences for tracking, derailments, etc." But I've been making some "practice" connections, and putting the wire in the unijoiner like this causes a gap between the rail ends and lifts the wired rail end higher than adjoining end. High enough that I couldn't stand to try to run a train over for fear of damage.

Has anybody else tried this, and/or does anybody have a suggestion for how to make the rails meet level and without a gap? Or does this seem unworkable, meaning that I should just buy a bunch of terminal unijoiners? (Which would make most of the wire I bought go to waste, except for the larger "bus" wires.)

[KenS]

I haven't done this, but from your description it sounds like your feeder wire is short enough that it's only under one of the rail ends, rather than under both as those instructions describe. Are you using stranded or solid wire, and what gauge?  Also, are you doing this so the end of the wire is towards (and under) the first track attached to the joiner, so the second track has to slide in above it, which I think is the right way to do this?  It sounds like something is causing the wire to stick up between the two pieces of rail.  That could happen if it's fed in the wrong direction or if you're using too-heavy stranded wire.

However, while I'm sure this technique works, I'd be concererned with its long-term integrity.  One reason given for soldering track joiners (including unijoiners) is intrusion of scenic materials into the joints and flexing of track loosening the track joiners.  This method counts on a snug fit and doesn't address the intrusion problem.  If you're using these on a layout that will be taken apart occaisionally it wouldn't be an issue, since you could check and replace problematic joints on reassembly.  But for long-term use, it could be problematic.

[scott]

Thanks, Ken. I'm using 22-gauge stranded wire for this, and the wire exits from the end of the unijoiner under the first track piece, rather than the "open" end.

I'm not sure I see where in the instructions it says to put wire under both rail ends, but it does make sense that that would at least prevent the vertical deviation (<-- highly technical term). I'll keep fiddling with this, at least until I get tired of it and just buy some terminal unijoiners. :-/

[KenS]

You're right, the description seems to suggest the wire ends up pinched between the first track and the unijoiner, with the end pointing out, towards where the next piece of track would snap in.  And this version of the method has photos that match that.

Which is exactly opposite how I'd expect it to work, but it does have the advantage that you can leave the feeder assembled onto the track when you unsnap the track and it will hold the wire in place.