How would I connect a fleischmann/roco multi maus to kato unitrack

[Staffy]

What equipment/track pieces do i need?
How would it do it?

Please tell me I dont have to get an electrician out!

[KenS]

You don't need an electrician, but it looks like you would need wire cutters.  But first, a quote from the manual:

The warranty will be voided if you are using ROCO components together with components from other companies. In addition there is a risk of damage or malfunction to your digital system.

Technically, I think this is using it "with components from other companies", although since the component is wire and a section of track, I can't imagine any way it could cause damage.

I should note that I've never seen the Fleischman/Roco system in person, just diagrams in a manual I found online.

The output of the amplifier (the box the handheld plugs into) on the "track out" is, according to the manual I found, compatible with any DCC decoder (or DC locos, although some DC locos have problems on any DCC system). The problem is that it's intended to be used with a special track feeder piece of track (Roco 61190) so the wire it uses is intended to connect to the Roco feeder track.  Likewise, most of Kato's feeder tracks assume what's on the other end is a Kato power pack with its own special connector.  Kato does make an adapter that can connect to screw terminals, but the Roco (from pictures I've seen) doesn't have screw terminals.

You could splice the Roco feeder track into the Unitrack (using the Kato 20-045 "62mm (2 7/16") Snap-Track® Conversion Track"), but if you want to use only Unitrack you'll need to cut the track end off the Roco cable and the powerpack end off a Unitrack feeder, and splice each wire together.  If you're only using one feeder, which you connect to the Kato blue or white doesn't matter.  If you have more than one, then you just need to be consistent (and be sure the same color is always the left, or right, rail).

The easiest way to do this if you're not comfortable with wiring, is to use a Kato feeder track, cut the big white connector off the wire, strip the insulation off 1/2" of the ends and screw those two wires to one side of a two-position barrier strip, then take the wire from the "track out" connector on the Roco amp, cut and strip the end near the track, and connect that to the other side of the barrier strip.  All you need are wire cutter/strippers and a screwdriver.

[Staffy]

Much appreciated. A comprehensive, easy to understand answer, many thanks. Will let you know how I get on!

[Staffy]

The nearest I could find to a barrier terminal block was a connecting strip - is it the same thing?

http://www.partridgeshadleigh.co.uk/catalog/home-electrical-installations-wireing-accessories-connecting-strips-connecting-strip-15-amp-rating-p-5731.html

If so - which sockets do I attach to each wire

So if the connecting strip sockets are arranged like so
1-2
3-4
5-6
7-8
9-10
11-12

Would I connect the two wires of the power feeder wire from the roco power pack to 1 and 2, or 1 and 3?

Also which sockets would I wire to if I wanted to attah two feeder tracks?

Any help is grate4fully received!

[KenS]

Yes, they are essentially the same. This kind is actually better for what you are doing (wire without lugs).

If 1 is connected to 2 and 3 to 4, which I think is what you mean, then the two wires from the Roco box would connect to 1 & 3, and the two Kato wires to 2 & 4.

Doing two feeder tracks is a bit harder.  There are two (at least) ways to do this:

1) connect the second track feeder to 6 & 8, then run a short wire from 1 (which also has the first Roco wire) to 5, and another from 3 (which has the second Roco wire) to 7. When you do it that way, the wires on 2 and 6 should be the same color, and should both connect to the same rail (which means you need to make sure the connection on the Kato track itself has them on the same side, and reverse the piece of track if they are not).

2) Use Kato's 3-way extension cord (24-827).  Connect its cord to 2 & 4 in place of the track. Do not strip the track wires, but instead connect them to the sockets on the extension cord box. I like this approach better, since it doesn't require modifying the feeder track wires. And you can use it for even a single track, as long as you can get the extension cord.

With Unitrack, you can usually count on the track switches to reliably feed power into sidings when they're thrown, so multiple feeders are mainly needed if you have complex trackwork (if a train can't move from the feeder to some other point on the track without reversing direction, then either the feeder is in the wrong place or you need multiple feeders). But with DCC you may want power to a siding even when the track switch is thrown towards the main line, and then the siding needs its own feeder (see also this thread).

Multiple feeders can get more complex if you have loops or sidings that connect in a way that form a loop. You also should use insulated rail joiners between separately fed sections (although that's not an absolute requirement with DC unless you have a loop, it's more important with DCC because of the way the signal is put on the wires, but even there with short distances omitting the joiners would probably still work as long as there is no loop).There are books about track wiring, and I'd recommend reading one before planning anything complex.