Kato Shinkansen Series 0 or 100 - Good set, easy decoder install?

[Spaceman Spiff]

Hi there, me again with noob questions. I am thinking getting more of an original Shinkansen Series 0 or 100 as opposed to the 500 series. I figure getting something vintage and and a 800 series would be better.

I was wondering if the Kato Series 0 or 100 sets are good? Are they easy for decoder installs? Same questions for the 800 series.

Any comments or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Spiff

[grumbeast]

I don't know about the dcc install but I have a kato series 0 and I love it, it runs beautifully and looks so classical.  The only downer is that is uses rapido couplers instead of the close couplings that all my other kato stuff has

I'd certainly recommend it and they tend to be very reasonably priced

Graham

[Spaceman Spiff]

Thanks for the reply Grumbeast.

Can the rapido couplers be switched over?

Do you have both the 0 and 100 series? Which do you prefer?

Cheers

Spiff

[jappomania]

Hi Spiff,
of course, Kato 0 series is very beautifull but is the oldes project of Shinkansen model, at 99% is the same train until 1984 (the last 10-453/10-454 release have only a new pantograph). That's the reason for the old rapido coupler, you can change it but the space between the cars remain, is only reduced.
I think is better if you buy a new Tomix set, maybe the R61 last run set that can run correctly with the 500 series or you wait the next re-release of the R set with new Kodama color (black/green stripe).
In case you can wait the next Microace release of the old Hikari/Kodama original set (with new coupling type)
About DCC installation I don't think you find to much trouble, but is not so simple like the last plug and play Kato models (E4, E3, E2 1000)

ciao
Massimo

[spacecadet]

I have the latest Kato 0 series (10-453) and I like it, but it's clearly not up to the standards of the current models.  Not DCC ready, no diaphragms, non-prototypical space between the cars, the rapido couplers, etc.  I bought mine because it was very cheap - in fact I think the store I bought it from ("Ace of Bicycle" on Ebay) had it priced wrong because I got it for $156.99 and after I bought it, he reposted the same set for $199.

For $199, I would definitely get something else.  I think it was worth what I paid for it, but not more than that.

I do like having a 0 series set as my first shinkansen, but Kato is not the only company making 0 series sets.

[Spaceman Spiff]

Hi, well I pulled the trigger on the Tomix set on the advice received here. I hope you guys know what your talking about :) lol.

I should have probably asked before buying them but will the TOMIX N Scale 92963 JR Series 0-7000 Sanyo Shinkansen "Hikari" (Good Bye Series 0 Hikari) Set (Limited Edition) connect up to the TOMIX 92357 Shinkansen Bullet Train 0-2000 4-Car Add B with no issues?

Does the Good Bye series have 1 or 2 motors?

Also can some one tell me which decoders I need for this train?

Cheers

Spiff

P.S.  The is the set I bought but not from this seller.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/TOMIX-SHINKANSEN-0-7000-MAX-6-CARS-BASIC-SETS-RARE-PSL-/310222807291?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item483ab860fb

[spacecadet]

I can't say whether they'd connect to the add-on, but be aware that the 6 car set is most likely prototypical.  The last runs of the 0 series were 6 car trains.  The real life set that your set is probably modeling is the R61 set (which made a special Hikari run in 2008) - here is a video of the identical R67 set in its last year of revenue service:  

<a href="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2540417&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;fullscreen=1&amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=01AAEA" target="_blank">http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2540417&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;fullscreen=1&amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=01AAEA</a>

Kinda wish I'd bought this set; it's only a little more expensive than the Kato one I got (per car) and then I'd be able to just run a 6 car train and know I've got the full set :)

[jappomania]

Hi Spiff,
the guy of this auction is a little bit insane, the price in Japan is around 14000JPY and this set is not so hard to find, for example here is still available
http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html
this set have only one motorized car and for 6 cars formation you don't need more
about coupling type, you can't connect the old single cars and you can connect the 0-2000 add on set but why??? this set is already complete, 6 cars like the R61/R67/R68 last run
if you connect another add-on set the cars number doesn't mach, your car formation is not prototypically correct and the color doesn't mach!!! the "last run" set is white/blue painted, the 0-2000 (new or old is the same) is cream/blue
believe me, the 0 last run set born and die in 6 cars formation, if you want a much longer Shinkansen you need to buy another...
sorry, about DCC I can't help you

Ciao
Massimo

[Spaceman Spiff]

Thanks for the video spacecadet.

jappomania thanks for the info. I didn't realize the add on set didn't match up color wise. Is the color difference considerable?

Spiff

[Webskipper]

Back in stock at HS.

Kato 10-453 and 10-454 Series 0-2000 Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen Bullet Trains.

Just reserved both sets.

[keiichi77]

I was thinking about reserving one of the Kato sets myself as the 0 is my favorite shinkansen, but was wondering can you buy diaphragms for the Kato set, or are they not offered?

[Webskipper]

What's the deal with the Rapido couplers.  Can't a suitable Kato coupler be used? I wonder if this is just a rerelease and using all the old parts.

[angusmclean]

If it's alternative couplers to Rapido, I used the Kato 11-722. Twist out, twist in.....eaaaasy! Also never uncouples, and has air and electrical connectors simulated.   And cheap.  Ten vehicle sets in a pack for Y360. They will take curves much less than the minimum advised, so long as the track is canted. All my extensive stable is converted to these :)


Angus

[Webskipper]

Do these Kato 11-722 lessen the gap between the cars? Flat curves of 315mm ok?

[The_Ghan]

Hmmmm .... I've got a 100 series 16 car set and I love it.  Haven't converted it to DCC.  But .... I've just ordered the Kato 0-2000 16 car set.  I've got to wait until June .... long wait.

On the coupler scene, I've just had a look at Kato 11-711 coupler.  Personally, I prefer the look of 11-703 tight lock, but they come undone sometimes.  This leads me to a new problem: what type of coupler is prototypical for the 0 series?  I don't have a single picture in either of my shinkansen books and I couldn't find one using Google.  If anyone can help, please post.

Cheers

The_Ghan

[KenS]

I don't know if they all use the same coupler, but here's a photo of a representaive one from this Japanese Wikipedia page, and this photo (if you enlarge it) appears to show the same coupler on a type 0.

This was a derivative of the Shibata coupler used on most Japanese EMUs, although it has a round profile more similar to the original Scharfenberg design than to the square-profile Shibata.

[The_Ghan]

Hi KenS,

Thanks for the photos ... someone should go to jail for letting the old girl get like that !!!

On to the couplers: the 11-703 tight lock coupler is probably the closest offering from Kato.

Cheers

The_Ghan

[Webskipper]

On the Kato Series 100 Grand Hikari. There are 3 sets to purchase 10-354 10-355 10-356. That's only 14 cars. Does another set of 10-356 have to be purchased or is there a complete set of 16?

[jappomania]

Does another set of 10-356 have to be purchased or is there a complete set of 16?

Yes 
cars 3-4 and 12-13

Ciao
Massimo

[Spaceman Spiff]

Webskipper,

Is this train supposed to be 16 cars?

I got my add on sets from MTS.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/KATO-N-10356-100-Series-Shinkansen-Grand-Hikari-p/kat-10356.htm

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/KATO-N-10355-100-Series-Shinkansen-Grand-Hikari-p/kat-10355.htm


Spiff

[Webskipper]

Page 29 of the catalog shows 16 cars. Each of the 6 Pieces sets has 2 double deckers.

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.katomodels.com%2Fn%2F100kei%2F&sl=ja&tl=en&hl=&ie=UTF-8

●    By combining two sets of two in both two and six sets 増結 増結 set basic set can reproduce the 16-car train Sweet!

I'm glad this set has the diaphragm couplers. No searching for prototype replacements.

[Webskipper]

My Kato Series 100 Grand Hikari just arrived. So beautiful.

Check out the surprise at the bottom of the box in the picture below.

Looks like a Kato DCC EM13 can be used.

[David]

If you don't mind me asking, where? That looks like the standard Kato pre-DCC Kato design (not the drop in design for the EM13) - 2 tabs from the motor foldered up over the pickup strips and held in with a plastic retainer. The only question is if it's the old-old design (solid chasis) or the new-old design (milled out section hidden in the chasis just big enough for a Digitrax DZ125 decoder to be hidden for a hardwired installation).

[keitaro]

i have this coming in the mail http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10126727 tomix 6 car fresh green set.

anyone have this set is it an easy dcc install and while doesn't reaally matter I am interested if it can couple to another tomix power coupler set or another of the same set via nose?

[Webskipper]

Where?

Oh, new to installing dcc thought I could avoid welding the decoder in.

[keitaro]

Where?

Oh, new to installing dcc thought I could avoid welding the decoder in.

Crikey! weld it in. I think you won't have a motor car if you do that, should probably solder 

jokes aside.

I'm going to be in same boat as you soon and i havn't used a solder since 2002 and i sucked at soldering then.

[Webskipper]

Meant soldering. Ha ha.

Get yourself a solder station so you can have some control over tip temperature.

[Martijn Meerts]

A good soldering station is well worth the cost if you're going to be soldering a lot :)

[rankodd]

I picked up a Hakko 936 soldering station for ~$90 CA on sale, and I've got to say - this thing is worth it's weight in gold. I used to suck at soldering, now it seems as if I can do no wrong. Amazing what a difference it makes over the old Radio Shack fire-stick...

It's discontinued now, though. The new one is the Hakko FX-888:
http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=4800&Page=1

Which looks like it ought to come in a candy wrapper.

[KenS]

For just installing decoders, I used to use a simple Radio Shack pencil.  A soldering station with the ability to maintain a set temperature does work better if you need to deal with a variety of tasks (you won't overcook a delicate part with too many watts, but you'll still have the power to heat a larger element to the same temperature).  I use a Weller WESD51 these days.  Not cheap, but I expect to use it for a long time.

And so far, I haven't fried anything, even some pretty delicate surface-mount components.

[Webskipper]

I use a Weller WESD51 these days.

Me, too! Very reassuring to know your temperatures. It travels with me to the train shows along with several tips for different tasks. Johnny On the Spot likes to use it to fix issues that come arise.

[Martijn Meerts]

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WD2000M-Dual-Channel-Soldering-Station/dp/B0047D3RQK/ref=sr_1_128?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1308990369&sr=1-128 ..

I've got 3 tips for it, ranging from "bloody hell that's small" to just plain small :) The desoldering tweezer is also really handy for modifying the light boards of certain trains. Makes it real easy to flip around even the smallest SMD LEDs when needed. I solder pretty much everything with it, I've even repaired some decoders that had 1 or 2 components blown out. Soldering wires to track is also real easy and painless with it. I haven't been able to solder the World Kougei brass kits though :)

The best thing though, is that the pen/tweezer heats up within about 2-3 seconds, and when put back in their cradle, they immediately start cooling down. Tips can also be replaced without having to turn off the whole thing, and wait for the tip to cool down.

The biggest disadvantage is that new tips are insanely expensive because the heating element is in the tip. Luckily, they don't need replacement often :)


I'm thinking of getting a Weller Pyropen as well, which is a combined soldering iron and mini torch, mostly for the World Kougei kits, but it's also handy since it's a cordless soldering pen.

[rankodd]

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WD2000M-Dual-Channel-Soldering-Station/dp/B0047D3RQK/ref=sr_1_128?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1308990369&sr=1-128 ..

...

The biggest disadvantage is that new tips are insanely expensive because the heating element is in the tip. Luckily, they don't need replacement often :)

That whole thing is expensive, never mind the tips! Damn nice piece of kit, though :P

[Webskipper]

Ok, what's the trick to separating the Kato 0 Cab Car Shells? 

The halves are really stuck around the lighting board.

[KenS]

I don't have one of those, but on some of my EMUs, what happens is that there's a bit of plastic on the lightboard acting as a light-pipe that sticks into a hole in the front of the shell to position it behind the windshield/signboard and this gets stuck.  My solution was to lift up the rear of the body shell barely enough to clear the end of the floor (not clearing all the seats) and gently but firmly push the shell forward a mm or two to slide it off the light-pipe.  Too much tilt and it's nearly imposible.

[Webskipper]

Lol. It's stuck on the LEDs. Oh So close.

Even popped off the roof trying to get to the screw holding the light board. Little bugger won't release or shatter.

[CaptOblivious]

Lol. It's stuck on the LEDs. Oh So close.

Even popped off the roof trying to get to the screw holding the light board. Little bugger won't release or shatter.

Pull out the nose cone first; it's a clip that holds the nose in place, makes it feel like it's snagged on the lightboard.

[Webskipper]

Thanks, the upper shell is really stubborn.

Going to Starbuck$ in the morning to get some of those green colored hole-in-the-cup plugs. Recently used one to jimmy a stubborn loco shell off a diesel and it works better than a toothpick. It's slick plastic.

[KenS]

Going to Starbuck$ in the morning to get some of those green colored hole-in-the-cup plugs. Recently used one to jimmy a stubborn loco shell off a diesel and it works better than a toothpick. It's slick plastic.

That's a great idea.  I'll have to pick up a few for the workbench next time I'm at one.

I've used 3x5 index cards, and jeweler's screwdrivers, but this seems like a better idea.

[Webskipper]

I've used 3x5 index cards, and jeweler's screwdrivers, but this seems like a better idea.

Every tool has its purpose Ken. :)

[cteno4]

hmm knew there was a use for $tarbuck$, not for coffee though! not sure what the hole-in-the-cup-plug is but ill investigate, ive tried all manner of things to pry and hold open shells like that!

jeff

[KenS]

I go for the iced tea, actually.    But I sometimes carry a coffee or two back to the office for others.

On the hot-beverage cups the lid has a small oval hole for drinking.  If you carry the cup any distance, coffee will slosh out of this and get your hand wet. The plug is a bit of green plastic (looks like ABS, obviously higher-temp than simple styrene) maybe 3" (7.5cm) long that sticks into the hole and plugs it firmly.  There's usually a bin of them on the table with straws, sugar, and milk, so it's easy to pick up a few.

The shape is a small pointed and tapered blade that's easy to insert into the 1mm-wide hole, with a long shaft and a handle.  It does almost seem like it was designed for prying body shells apart.

[Webskipper]

Plugs the cup and stirs coffee. And to think a customer invented this.

Its slick plastic. Looks gentle enough huh?

Both ends can be used to finesse just about anything that doesn't require the force of a 2.5 or 3.0mm flat tip screwdriver.