助けてください 翻訳する instructions for EF59 World Craft Brass Kit

[Eliphaz]

Well I took a plunge and got this brass kit from HS.

I have no place for an operating layout or dioramas unfortunately, so while you all are working on your station buildings, this is what I will be doing.
I have been an engineer and technician for 25 years, I feel I have the capacity to make a good job of this - BUT - I have absolutely no knowledge of the Japanese Language.
I come to you, hat in hand, in hope that some of you with both Japanese and English  will find this as interesting as I do, and help me build an English language instruction set, before I lay a hand on the model itself.

once this process is moving, I will start another thread about actually building the model.

So here are what I guess are introduction to brass modelling, from page 1. Thank you for any help you can provide!

page 1 part 1


page 1 part 2

[Bernard]

I've made a couple of brass models but they were in HO scale. The one thing I will tell you is to have plenty of space on your work table when you assemble the model and make sure your floor is clean because if and when a little screw drops or a spring, you will be crawling around trying to find it. One modeler make an apron from the edge of his work table to his lap, this was to catch anything that dropped. Good luck, take your time, it looks like a fun model to build.

[maxa1]

I'm currently building a EF10 old style engine from World Kogei. The drawings on the instruction pretty well tell you how to proceed. Further, you will require a metric tap set(most screws are M1.5), a drill bit set(0.3 to 1.6mm) and a small vise for wheel assembly(can also be done on a bench drill press or lathe or simply with your fingers).Minimum radius for running is 320mm for your model.There is also a sketch about how to fold the etches, one for 90deg bend(half etch line inside) plus one for fold over in order to get double thickness(half etch line outside). They also explain about sweating parts together plus filling up some half etch lines after bending.With the doubler inside the body,use the etched holes for soldering.On the fronts remove the two outer doubler once you have drilled the holes for tail lights...they are only a drilling guide. The main etches(gearbox,floor) are 0.4mm, the rest is 0.3mm.Everything so far went nicely together,however the cosmetic frame is tricky(a long thin 0.3mm etch with many half etch lines).Tab and lugs help with placing the parts correctly before soldering.If you don't feel confident with white metal soldering,2 compound epoxy is OK(I used this method partly on a Bona Fide Model coach).The gearbox is a split type(one half insulated from the other with plastic bush and washers), the worms plus idler gear wheels are brass,the rest is plastic. With your background you should be able to produce a fine model.Looking forward to your building thread.
 

[maxa1]

Correction to previous post: Most screws are M1.4 and not M1.5, sorry for error.

[Eliphaz]

Maxa, thank you for the kindness of your reply, that is all very illuminating.
I did identify the screw sizes in the parts list, and I can clearly see where they are called out on the drawings.

The EF59 kit contains M1.4 , M1.7 , and M 1.2  ( :o )

I have not been able to find a source for taps in these small metric sizes.
M1.5 and M2 taps are generally available in the States, but not M1.2,  M1.4, or M1.7 .
can you suggest a supplier of these? -  or buy some for me, and trade with me?

from this note, I can now read "pan head" and "flat head", but what does the "B" means in M1.7B ?



again , my thanks for your interest.

e

[maxa1]

I bought my tap/die set here:   http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Tap-Die-Sets. M1.7 appears to be a self cutting screw used to fasten the whitemetal cab interior. It's not included in my kit but shown on the drawing. If it is the same on yours, just drill a hole of suitable diameter and cut the thread with your supplied M 1.7 screws.

Cheers

M

[Eliphaz]

I just ordered the tap and die set from Arc, thanks for the reference.

You are correct the "B" type screws are for screwing into the white metal traction weight/cab interior.


It's a nice kit that includes wheels, motors, wire, screws, pantographs and everything, but, oh no!  Rapido couplers!
and I suppose this note says coupler upgrade at your own expense...

[bikkuri bahn]

I suppose this note says coupler upgrade at your own expense...

Yes, basically.  The rapido coupler here is called an arnold coupler, and the KD type is called an "option" (i.e. buy at your own expense) coupler.

[Eliphaz]

not far from the coupler is the pony truck bolster assembly.
I have located the copper springs and brass bushes, but what is this note pointing to?


on the same step I find this cautionary note, what does it say !?

[maxa1]

Can you put on the full page of those two drawings. Have trouble with some of the Kanji signs, looking at the full drawing might give me a clue.

Couplers(I use Z gauge ones),airhorns and air brake hoses are optional and have to be sourced by yourself. World Kogei has optional parts for sale, so does Ginga Model, Tavasa,etc.

[Eliphaz]

sure, thanks again for your interest.
The scans are too big to attach to a post so I started an album:
http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album&id=41

The above snips are from the 1 End pilot drawing.

[maxa1]

Sorry, unable to translate properly...probably somebody else here is much better at Kanji
I've something similar on my own kit,albeit much smaller. I removed it, perhaps it's a construction aid? It cannot be seen on the assembled model and I cannot figure out any function for this tabs.
You could leave it until you have fitted the pilot bogies, than you might be able to see whether it has any function as stopper etc. which I doubt it has.

[maxa1]

Additional to last post: Best translation I came up with is.... Cut shaded area after fixation(fitting). Believe they refer to forward frame doubler. Once you have bent this and sweated or whatever you prefer to the frame A1-1, you can cut the protruding tab(I think yours also has a half etch line).