Japanese Modelling & Japan Rail Enthusiasts Forum
LoginRegister

ForumHelp

JNSwiki
May 23, 2012, 02:28:46 pm
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
Search  Search for  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Greenmax 38 -Trainshed  (Read 1480 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
alpineaustralia 
Global Moderator
*****
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« on: August 16, 2009, 02:27:16 pm »

I thought some people might like to see my Greenmax trainshed (kit No.38) which I have dry brush weathered and rusted.
Logged

Alpineaustralia
CaptOblivious 
Philosopher-Engineer
Administrator
******
*****
Offline Offline


485系「あいづライナー」


WWW
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2009, 04:09:08 pm »

Alpine, looking good. Do tell how you painted it up? What did you use for the rust effects?

Do the end doors open on the model?
Logged

A miniature slice of geekdom,
Akihabara Station
SONIC883 

Offline Offline

Gender: Male



WWW
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2009, 07:35:45 pm »

*thumbsup* Well done!

BTW: For which wide is it (33/37mm)?
Logged
cteno4 

*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male

Where ever you go, there you are...


WWW
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2009, 11:11:43 pm »

great job! is that a gray of a silver you dulled down for the base color?

cheers,

jeff
Logged

Japan Rail Modelers of Washington DC
http://www.japanrailmodelers.org
alpineaustralia 
Global Moderator
*****
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2009, 02:05:22 am »

Quote
Do tell how you painted it up?

I used Gunze acrylic paints mainly because it is easier to work with. 
I sprayed the model all over without the window glass installed.
I then gave it a wash with the same colour gray with a litttle black mixed into it - effectively very dirty gray coloured water.
I then drybrushed with the same colour gray to highlight the detail.
I then lightly drybrushed with the same colour gray but with a little white mixed in, to further highlight the detail.  This is a lighter drybrushing than the first.
I then even more lightly drybrushed with the same colour gray with a little more white mixed in, again lighter than the drybrushing before.
I then drybrushed rust colour (testors rust coloured paint) where I thought rust would accumulate on a real shed.
I then lightly sprayed the window glasss that is to be installed in the roof with a earthy brown colour to simulate accumulated dust and dirt. I then installed the glass.
I then sprayed a clear matt coat onto the roof including the glass to give it a sun scorched, worn out look.
I then sprayed brown horizontal lines on the glass that is to be installed on the sides of the building. The lines coincided with the horizontal bars on the windows in order to simulate the dirt that collects on the bottom edge of the bars on a window.

Quote
What did you use for the rust effects?
Testors rust

Quote
Do the end doors open on the model?
Yes they do.

Quote
For which wide is it (33/37mm)?
I think it is 33mm wide. I am no sure

Quote
Is that a gray of a silver you dulled down for the base color?
Gunze light gray accrylic paint. Only the air ducts on the roof are metallic stainless steel paint from testors.
Logged

Alpineaustralia
Mudkip Orange 

Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2009, 02:20:44 am »

Not bad. Not bad at all.
Logged
scott 

*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male

noritetsu otaku


« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2009, 02:56:47 am »

Looks great--this is probably a dumb question, but what is "drybrushing"?
Logged
alpineaustralia 
Global Moderator
*****
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2009, 03:28:43 am »

You take most all of the paint off the brush by (say) brushing it on paper and then run it over the parts of the model that you want highlighted so that those parts catch what little paint there is on the brush bringing out the detail of those parts.  The air vents on the side of the shed, and the bolts or rivets that hold the corrugated sheets on the side of the shed, are the best example in these photos.
Logged

Alpineaustralia
Bernard 
Administrator
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2009, 11:44:39 am »

The weathering you did on the building makes it look real. That is one of the problems I have with the Kato & Tomix structure when you buy them, they look too perfect. I have to try your dry brushing technique. It looks great.
Logged
alpineaustralia 
Global Moderator
*****
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male


« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2009, 03:13:19 pm »

I have attached two further pictures of models with drybrushing applied. 

The first is a T-62 Soviet Tank. You can see some of the detail and edges brought up a little with a lighter green than the rest of the body. What you dont necessarily see is that a darker wash was applied before hand. The darker wash finds its way into all of the crevices and so when you drybrush with a lighter colour, the crevices appear darker and the detail appears lighter, contrasting the difference and bringing out the detail more. The picture doesnt do the tank justice, it looks a lot more weathered than the photo shows.

The second is an Israeli APC/command vehicle. If you look at the detail just above the shovel on the roof of the vehicle, you can see what I am talking about above with the lighter khaki colour bringing out the detail .

I hope this better explains the technique. More detail can be found in the hyperlink:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/lcIYkCz-Dco" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/lcIYkCz-Dco</a>


Also see:

http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_drybrushing.html

I should also add that these close up photos always seem to take away the effect. It looks a lot better in reality.
 
Logged

Alpineaustralia
scott 

*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male

noritetsu otaku


« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2009, 04:22:36 am »

You take most all of the paint off the brush by (say) brushing it on paper and then run it over the parts of the model that you want highlighted so that those parts catch what little paint there is on the brush bringing out the detail of those parts.  The air vents on the side of the shed, and the bolts or rivets that hold the corrugated sheets on the side of the shed, are the best example in these photos.

Aha--thanks! I'll have to try that--as Bernard says, I have some Kato buildings that are looking a little too clean.... :-)
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

TinyPortal v.1.0.6 beta 2 © Bloc

Problems? Simply email "help" at "jnsforum" dot "com"!
Click here to lend your support to: JNSForum.com Autumn 2012 Maintenance and make a donation at www.pledgie.com !
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
Twitter Mod 1.3 created by 2by2host.com - a web hosting company
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.205 seconds with 40 queries.