Tomix controllers!

[NXCALE]

Hi all.

Any comments and ideas about the new Tomix controller 5517 (N-DU101-CL)?.

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[JR 500系]

This one looks interesting... Based on the description:

 

[Commercialization Features]
- The power unit to the image of a cab
- You can enjoy the acceleration, constant speed and deceleration with one handle
- The power switch mounted
- Normal lighting system installed
- Dial equipment for atmospheric lighting adjustment
- Accelerated three-stage
- Constant speed (I will hold any speed)
- Deceleration three-stage, very
- Indicator mounting acceleration, constant speed and deceleration display
- Dedicated AC adapter included

 

It seems like it holds speed, which is like the older Tomix 5512, but at half the cost! However, there doesn't seem to have CL (constant lighting) function so that might be a disadvantage... The 3 speed acceleration and deceleration will be interesting too... And the one handle is just like a Keikyu train!  :)

 

All in all, I like this, but I'm saving up for this:

 

 

 

[NXCALE]

Yes, it looks an interesting item.

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[katoftw]

CL does represent constant lighting.

[kvp]

I also saw a video where a circuit (I think) has been installed to a model train to better mimic the inertia and momentum of a real train

Some DCC decoders have a feature called analog conversion which allows them to work with analog controllers. Some are pretty basic and only let the analog voltage through without even turning the headlights on. A few of them are more advanced and could sample the voltage and follow the same acceleration/deceleration curves as in digital DCC mode. These ones are really sensitive to CL and PWM though, so they can't be run with a Tomix pack without damaging them.

 

With DCC, you can set the acceleration, deceleretaion, minimal and maximal speed and even the curves and number of speed steps in the on board DCC decoders. (along with things like command address, headlight patterns and sound functions if they are supported) Personally i always set the real locomotives top speed and speed curves on my DCCed european locomotives but leave my japanese ones analog and use controllers that handle these settings externally. The main reason is the sheer number of trains and the small size of some where fitting a chip would be a problem.

[NXCALE]

Thank you for the info.

.

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[JR 500系]

The N DU202 CL is amazingly fun, and almost the next simulator to driving an actual train...

 

 

But of course, the ultimate was the NS2 CL, but that is long sold out...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dy7uMkFySoc

 

Now.. I would really hope to have a video of the N DU-101... It sounds really promising now and it has a good price tag...

[cteno4]

I was being tempted du202 big time, but now I may try the 101 first!

 

I wonder if the 101 is universal power range of 110-240?

 

Jeff

[katoftw]

I wonder if the 101 is universal power range of 110-240?

Even 100-240V would be better. haha

 

I have been wondering the same question.  No info out there about it yet.

[kvp]

The N-DU101-CL seems a bit simple, considering it doesn't have acceleration/deceleration settings, so it might contain a generic or a certain train specific profile. But it does look like a really nice modern single lever controller. (they are much easier to use than the classic valve braked stands, both in real live and in model form)

[cteno4]

Even 100-240V would be better. haha

 

I have been wondering the same question.  No info out there about it yet.

Oops being NA centric there! Yes they would make it to exclude the Japanese market, right!

 

Jeff

[NXCALE]

I think it would be better to wait until the N-DU101-CL controller is realised. So we could base our opinions on its actual performance/characteristics.

 

 

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[kvp]

The Tomytec one is much nicer design wise, but seem to lack CL support. It can be used in a two person driver/conductor setup, where one person drives, the other controls the doors and the depature signal.

 

The N-DU101 seem to use an external adapter, which means it may support multiple voltages and in the worst case it can be replaced with a local one.

[cteno4]

We have one of the tomytec units here at the club, it was a gift from the JR East US director a couple of years ago. He could never get it to work well and neither have we been able to unfortunately. it will work for a little bit then stop and reset needs to be done. Might have been a bum unit from the get go, but i think Rick K also had some issues with one as well.

 

jeff

[NXCALE]

Your comment about the failure is very interesting.

 

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[kvp]

Let's see:

-hot glue stains from hand application

-solder stains from bad quality solder applied by hand

-an ancient pic micro

-and a motor driver ic without a proper heatsink

 

The overload could be an overheating issue (more than 4 cars for more than a few minute without a full stop) while the direction problem can be either a broken solder point, a burned out i/o pin or a blown output transistor. (if it doesn't change at all it's input side, if stops and stays still then output side)

[NXCALE]

I think Tomytec could have dropped the ball during the production of the latter controller.

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[kvp]

 

there are the Tetsukore Style Controller A and B

There is a mod for them on the net, that adds a socket for a low voltage, lower current external adapter and provide and automatic switchover when the plug is inserted.

 

 

I would find hard to believe that there are only three faulty controllers and these ended up with three people that participate in this forum. 

Actually i think the overheating is not a real fault, but a design deficiency as these controllers were meant for a single Tomytec motor moving a light 4 car emu. As long as you don't overload them, they should be ok. (the direction changing problem is real, but imho that only appeared on a single controller) The quality is typical chinese one, i've seen similarly shoddy assembly work when i opened a few lego led control circuits for modding. Those tiny circuit boards turned out to be hand soldered...

[inobu]

I agree with kpv

 

The leg on IC2 does not look like its even soldered to the board . There may be a lot of cold solder joints causing the components to heats up the lift off  the boards causing the unit fails.

 

Inobu

[cteno4]

I now will get ours out of storage and open It up.

 

We tried running it with tomytec motor units only and they only worked a tad better that others.

 

Jeff

[NXCALE]

Hi. Could you share the link for the Mod controller? The one for the Tetsukore Style Controllers.

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[cteno4]

I'm pretty sure it was the tomytec 101dx, looks right. It's stored at another members house and I have not looked at if for a year now. I'll get with them after the holidays to take a look at the guts to see if there is anything visible as to circuit problems!

 

Jeff

[kvp]

I can't find the original japanese site about the mod, but it involved a 3 legged adapter socket glued into the side of controller and using the 3rd leg (a normally closed contact when unplugged) to connect the batteries, while with a plug added the batteries got disconnected and the external 6V pack powered the controller.

 

For the tomix reversing switch, imho you don't need any auxiliary power. That's used for the turnouts and signals.

[NXCALE]

That‘s correct. My bad, using too much the Tomix 5535 in tandem with Tomix 5531 has created a habit.

 

Edited September 5, 2016 by nxcale

[cteno4]

Yeah Odakyu really liked his a lot. Both CL and wireless remote throttles! But a little ouch on the price, but wireless ain't cheap. Anyone else play with these?

 

Jeff