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katoftw

Tomytec Railway Collection - General Discussion

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katoftw

I guess it all depends on the curves and layout you wanna run them on.

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katoftw

Yeah I just saw it... it's a bit too much space in my opinion, so I think I want to go for TN couplers in the end after all.

Pull some couplers off a Tomix set you have and trial.  It will be one of the tight lock body mount couplers.  0337 part number looks like the better option for Ostu 600s/700s.

Edited by katoftw

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kvp

I've used Tomix 0336 for my railway collection 20 meter cars and they just click into place. On the other hand, i would suggest the rapidos if you want to run them on R140. If you want to close couple with rapiodos but using the couplers only is not enough, you can try adding a single spacer to one side only. Just keep the set in a fixed formation after this modification. (i did the same with my BR 4CEP emu, you can't even couple the cars with short couplers only, but short-normal pairs work nicely)

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Densha

They won't have to navigate curves narrower than R180 so I think that will work out... I'll have to take a look whether these will actually support body-mounted TN couplers or need bogie-mounted ones.

Edited by Densha

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HantuBlauLOL

What is the minimum radius for body mounted and truck mounted TNs?

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katoftw

Depends on the gap between the cars.  The larger the gap, the smaller the radi it can navigate.

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katoftw

They won't have to navigate curves narrower than R180 so I think that will work out... I'll have to take a look whether these will actually support body-mounted TN couplers or need bogie-mounted ones.

chassis mount is fine.  the have a attachment twin poles at the end of both the TM-20 motor unit and the original chassis also.

 

edit//  Just putting together my K-On version, the TM-20 motor units only have a single pole.  So maybe not then.

Edited by katoftw

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kvp

The body mounted TN couplers have zero gap on most cars, since the springs pull the cars together until they are flush or the springs are fully retracted. This is actually a problem on some of the iida and minobu line sets, where the old style gangways have small protusions that tend to get locked on S curves, so you either have to remove them or use rapidos (i choose the rapidos). Those cars are problematic anyway, since it's hard to get them to work on R140 turnouts and they have larger axle distance trucks that hate the R280 Y turnouts. Other than that, i've tried my TN equipped 103 series sets on R140 and they can go through the curves but barely.

 

Generally all Tomytec train collection trains should be able to navigate R140 with rapidos and all Tomix and Tomytec trains should be able to use R280 with both rapidos and TN-s. Some of the normal Tomix trains work with R140 and TN-s, but they usually don't like R140 S curves and mini points.

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katoftw

Last fortnights work.  All have motors and pantographs fitted, (if electric).

 

post-1782-0-18685700-1427589508_thumb.jpg

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JR 500系

Last fortnights work.  All have motors and pantographs fitted, (if electric).

 

 

Good Job! I think all are electric except for that single DYC right? True Kumamoto fan!

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katoftw

Good Job! I think all are electric except for that single DYC right? True Kumamoto fan!

Yeah yellow diesel only one without.  Got another 2 Kumamoto coming in June.  And attempting to finish off my Otsu fleet.  Other than that, there isn't anything else Tomytec can tempt me with.

 

Back to buying some JR East commuters.  And a lot of scenery for a layout that still is without a baseboard. Grrr!

Edited by katoftw

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Densha

Now I gotta find a use for my spare TM-23 though. It really doesn't work with my Fujikyuko 1000 series: both are 18m but the chassis and bogie placement is entirely different so it doesn't fit. I think it'll only fit with the Tomytec Railway Collection Vol. 19 KiHa's.

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mrp

Now I gotta find a use for my spare TM-23 though.

 

For something a bit “different”, how about this one?

 
10275809p.jpg

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Densha

No thanks, I would feel uncomfortable with having elementary scholar anime girls on my trains... the one with the mountain looks okay-ish though.

 

This one I found looks quite nice: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10300891

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mrp

No thanks, I would feel uncomfortable with having elementary scholar anime girls on my trains

 

 

Actually I was joking.  I guess I should have put a :) after the word “different”.  I think my family also would also be a bit worried if packages like that started being delivered…

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Densha

I'm glad you were joking, I really am. I can't believe how a railway company would accept such advertising, but I guess anything is possible in Japan...

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maihama eki

Great discussion.  I have the Series 2100 Shimanekko Go mostly finished to my satisfaction, but really need some better couplers and would like a diaphragm between the cars.  Is there a general reference for Tomix couplers?  Any hints as to what type might work for this pair of cars?  Has anybody found a diaphragm that would work on these sets?

 

 

post-550-0-64797100-1427857698_thumb.jpg

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Densha

Hi maihama eki!

 

For couplers I think body-mounted Tomix TN 0337 couplers will work best.

Here's an explanation of installing these on another train: http://akihabara.artificial-science.org/2009/12/17/installing-body-mount-tn-couplers/

You can get the couplers from any retailer, but this page has a good picture of the couplers: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10134221

 

But before you order you should check if your train supports these. I think they will, but you never know for sure... The train chassis needs to have small pins that correspond with the holes on the couplers.

Edited by Densha
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kvp

It's a Tomytec train collection item. They support TN couplers and you can just put them on by clipping them on the 4 pins without forcing anything. The pins on the motors are usually on the length extension ends that have to be added to get the right size. You should check the gap between the cars with the couplers installed, because you might find that it was reduced to 0 mm, so no extra diaphragm is needed.

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katoftw

Wobbling trailer bogies.  Anyone have issues with the bogie furthest from the motor car  wobbling on straights?  All my Otsu 600s do it, and it is very bad when the trailer is pushed.

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kvp

There might be an assembly problem there. The trailers have to glide smoothly. You should check if the coupler holder is facing towards the front of the car and not backwards and if the bogie holder pin is in the right position and the imitation coupler is pushed in fully. Also any installed TN couplers might have a problem with the rapido holder getting in the way.

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katoftw

none of those.  no couplers as it is the furthest from the motor.  i'm almost thinking wheels not wide enough, as in 8.5mm instead of 9mm.  or wheel axle movement inside bogie recess.

Edited by katoftw

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katoftw

server keep crashing.  will post up details later

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