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Tomix 92605 Service


gr-ex

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Hello everyone,

 

I'm currently having a few issues with my OER Series 7000 LSE ( Tomix 92605 ) so thought I'd give it a service.

 

Before I do, I just want to make sure I'm doing things right.

 

Problems:

 

1) Jerky movement

2) Needs a push each time to get it going

3) Doesn't like going under 50 on the controller

 

I've already cleaned the wheels with rubbing alcohol and that seems to have helped a little bit, so the next step is to take it apart.

 

Is there anything I should / shouldn't do. I don't really want to touch the motor as it's got the spring worm drive. I did notice that when taking it apart the ends of the spring worm seemed to have a lot of grease on them, I'm not sure if it's been over greased in the past but there seemed to be a lot there.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Grant.

 

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Update:

 

After thoroughly reading over the 'Lubricants' thread ( http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/173-lubricants/ ), which was extremely helpful, I decided to go ahead and start servicing the LSE. After a couple of hours tinkering, she's now running as she should.

 

If anyone is interested, here is what I did ( sorry I didn't manage to snap any pictures ).

 

1) Dismantled the power car ( removed body, motor, trucks, wheels, gears etc ).

2) Gave the trucks, wheels and gears a thorough clean using isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush.

3) Using woodland scenics hob-e-lube ultra lite oil, I applied a miniscule amount using the tip of a sewing needle to the brushes.

4) Reassembled the trucks and applied woodland scenics hob-e-lube dry white lube to the gears.

5) Reassembled the rest of the power car.

 

After I'd reassembled the power car, I still seemed to be having the same issues, i.e. stuttering.

 

So I decided to go over what I'd done before ( minus applying the oil ), this time applying the dry white lube liberally on the gears and working it in with a cotton bud. Reassembled the power car again and now she's running as she should.

 

Many thanks to all that contributed to the 'Lubricants' thread, the info there really was very helpful.

 

Grant.

Edited by gr-ex
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Grant,

 

Ugh, didn't know tomix used the dreaded spring worm drive on coach units. I've worked on tomix de15'locos with the spring drive and they can be a bear. The design creates a lot of points of resistance and why they are packed full of grease. The centripetal force causes the end of the spring worm to want to rotatable out from the center and you get it wearing on the housing and no longer getting great function on the main truck gear it engages with. The gives some more resistance to start and not smooth operation as well as making it growl a lot.

 

This resistance can also cause motors to get burned out, replace one on Aaron's de15 due to this problem.

 

Jerkiness could also be dirty pickups off the wheels in the trucks. Unfortunately this requires pulling the trucks apart to see of its an issue as you usually can't see the pickups with the trucks assembled.

 

Were the wheels really dirty when you cleaned them? If really dirty I would suspect the pickups may have gotten dirty as well.

 

The only place you want to lube on the motor is the end bearings where the shaft enters the motor. Oil in the brushes can cause electrical conductivity issues.

 

Jeff

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try to clean the pickup shoe and a metal that connects the shoe to your motor from blacking(?).

 

by the way it uses Jacobs bogies right? how about making a "powered couplers" by wiring the couplers?

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Hello,

 

I have 2 x 92009 ... the older version of 7000 LSE.  It also has spring worm drives.  They work best when spring worm drives are dry.  Removing the wheels from the bogie and cleaning the bogie before reassembly also help.

 

BTW, the MicroAce models, such as A2151, Odakyu 3000 Romance Car, have powered couplers and generally run much better.

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Many thanks for the helpful responses.

 

Jeff, thanks for the info. Touch wood, I've not had too bad an experience with worm drives, having said that, more often than not I've heard bad things about them. Ah thats very interesting, I didn't really think about the friction caused by the spring ends, I suppose over a lifetime that's something that will need to be monitored.

 

One of the first things I did when I disassembled the unit was to disassemble the trucks. The pickups were just as bad as the wheels, so I left them to soak in the isopropyl and then gave them a good scrub.

 

I placed the droplet of oil on the half brass ring which is in very close proximity to the shaft, I'm hoping I did this right, all seems to be order and although slightly loud ( a given I thought because it's a spring worm drive ), the unit is running very smooth.

 

 

@HantuBlauLOL I gave them a thorough clean as the pickups were covered in grime, I'm guessing this might have been the cause of the jerky movement.

 

Jacobs bogies? Am I right in saying that the tomytec trams use jacobs bogies? If so then the LSE doesn't have them as they are not the same. They are pretty standard, just placed on the very end of each coach. Each coach then connects to the next via a push and click method.

 

 

Hi E6系, thanks for the advice. Great to know about the MicroAce sets, definitely something to keep in mind for the future, would love to add a 3000 to the collection.

 

Steering slightly off topic here, I'll hopefully have some update pictures up on my 'Unnamed Layout' thread tomorrow featuring the LSE.

 

 

Once again, thanks all.

 

Grant.

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Jacobs bogies? Am I right in saying that the tomytec trams use jacobs bogies?

The LSE is using jacobs bogies. Once assembled, the bogies should be right between the two cars. Tomytec low floor trams don't even use real bogies and in the two section types, one of them is even locked from rotating horizontally, while the three section types are actually made up of 2 two axle tram cars with a suspended middle section between them. (two rooms and a bath configuration) Jacobs bogies are in use when one bogie is shared by two car bodies and the bogies are place between cars with the articulation right above the middle of the bogie. (except on end cars, where one bogie is a conventional one) A good tram example is the middle bogie of the modern Setagaya line 300 series.

 

Trains with jacobs bogies are very easy to wire through, since connecting shells are always connected though a common articulation that dones't open up on corners and S curves like close coupled sets do. In this case, it's possible to run a wire from one end to the other. It's very common to add computer pin and socket type power couplers to the disconnectable joints in the factory, so many european made trains have them. If it's fitted witha 4 to 6 pin type, then it also allows the use only a single dcc decoder for the whole set.

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Jacobs bogies? Am I right in saying that the tomytec trams use jacobs bogies? If so then the LSE doesn't have them as they are not the same. They are pretty standard, just placed on the very end of each coach. Each coach then connects to the next via a push and click method.

 

tomytec trams usually use standard bogies, but only one for each car. jacobs bogie is one bogie that connects 2 cars together.

 

like this one

Nebraska_Zephyr_articulation.JPG

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@kvp and @HantuBlauLOL fantastic stuff guys!

 

Really interesting, especially since my knowledge of Jacobs bogies was nil. From what you've both described the LSE has Jacobs bogies, each car is connected in the middle and articulates from that bogie.

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thank you. :)

 

btw does your LSE runs better now?

 

Yes thank you, much better now. Before I serviced the unit, it was stopping every 10 seconds on medium power and on full power it was extremely jerky.

 

It's now running smoothly, I think the main cause of the issue was the state of the contacts and the wheels.

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