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SONIC883s Modules


SONIC883_de

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That is styrodur from our local do-it-your-self store.

 

I mistook the texture of the styrodur for some kind of retaining-wall diagonal block pattern.

 

My one concern there is that those walls are too even, and too steep, to look "natural" without some kind of reinforcement. It appears to be a 1:1 (one foot or meter over for each down) slope. Dirt could be that steep, depending on its composition, but a man-made slope is more commonly around 2:1, and a natural channel would be less regular.

 

That doesn't mean it would look bad when it was done, but there might seem to be something a little bit "off" about the appearance.

 

Slopes that steep in nature would be eroded by water during periods of high water, and would slump down into the channel in places where the material wasn't quite as strong as surrounding areas. Adding some material in the channel to create irregularity in the walls. and some small stones (or Woodland Scenics Talus) in the channel and in "eroded" areas of the bank, to suggest that the ground is very rocky, would help if you want the natural look.

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Hi Kai,

 

gotcha. just the shape in the foam was pretty much perfect channelized town river shape! i really want to do one of these 'in town' rivers like this as they can be great scenes with a lot of boats on the small channel and usually walkways along the top of the embankment and sometimes many buildings butt up against the embankments as well. great bang for the sq cm in scenery!

 

i guess something with a rocky cut would work well with that steep of sides unless you are planning on shallowing it all out more. you see a lot of steep river cuts like that in the mountain with very sharp sides. when you get down lower then things either tend to get really wide (with the river being in a channel in the center at low water) and then broadening out into a larger flood plain that the bridget goes over (all pretty low). around the towns you then get the embankments filled in a lot and either stone or cement steeper embankments so then the bridges get short and the embankments steep.

 

does depend on the geology its going through. if this is a hard rock scene then you could get a pretty steep embankment carved into it.

 

the module system looks like fun, do you have a group thats doing them around germany now with japanese stuff to run with as well? i remember seeing one show you were at where someone looked to have a layout of modules that size and a 2 track configuration. this an extension of that? always curious what folks are doing out there as we need to think about the v3.0 of the jrm layout now for the future and not wait until the last minute!

 

I like your using some of the modules on your home layout. a few of us here at jrm are thinking how we might do something like that. the new 3m station on the jrm v2.0 i had sort of thought of doing as the heart of my basement layout im planning, but it was getting difficult to get it to work out just right, but may still have not given up!

 

cheers

 

jeff

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SONIC883_de

In the moment I am the only who build up modules. The other guys only discuss about them but they are not building up.

One of us has complatible modules (center double track, Tomix, 400 mm wide) at which I can connect with a transform module.

 

Yesterday I made some styrodur plates on the top. Those plates with a different structure will be add at the river walls this week.

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you see a lot of steep river cuts like that in the mountain with very sharp sides.

 

That often happens on the outside of a curve, where the river is cutting the bank due to higher volume and velocity of the water. The "thalweg", which is the deeper route of the main flow, will often form a low-water channel toward that outside edge. On the opposite bank, you can often have a nearly-flat bank where the river is depositing silt and rocks as it slowly moves toward the cut bank.

 

This isn't the best illustration, but it's all I could find in my stuff on short notice--outside curve & cut bank on the left, flatter inside bank on the right.

 

<a href=" DSCF0303 title="DSCF0303 by scott_clark, on Flickr">697483691_aea28c9643.jpg</a>

 

Anyway--Kai, I like the idea of this module. I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures.

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SONIC883_de
does depend on the geology its going through. if this is a hard rock scene then you could get a pretty steep embankment carved into it.

 

My idea to such a river is that after tectonic movements the landscape becomes a crack/gap which was washed out over many years. Like the Grand Canyon, but not so deep :-) IMHO vulcanic stone are soft and light stones the such a riverbed can be realistic.

Okay, The walls are clean in the moment, but they get some more structure in the next days.

 

Here one picture (with higher waterlevel)

http://images.travelpod.com/users/nelsonduo/1.1247580140.river-in-japan-alps-on-way-to-takayama.jpg

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Okay, I see what you're trying for now.

 

That should be interesting. I'm looking forward to more pictures.

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SONIC883_de

It should become a mixture of both. The rocky walls with a low water level and rocky riverbed.

 

I went to the shop form some flexible tile glue. That will be the base coat for the gypsum part

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SONIC883_de

I havent much time in the moment. on this shots you see a try for decoration.

The bushes arn't very nice. I will take selfmade trees.

 

And the fishermen are waiting for water

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SONIC883_de

Thank you!

 

The material is secret :cheesy Okay, is flexible tile glue. I use the flexible one because this cement doesn't crack so fast.

The dark color will go after drying.

 

Which color should I use? The light grey color or a mid brown?

 

I preffer grey

 

http://images.travelpod.com/users/nelsonduo/1.1247580140.river-in-japan-alps-on-way-to-takayama.jpg

Here is grey with some brown rock formation

 

and this one

http://www.carto.net/neumann/travelling/japan_2004_09/05_norikura_kamikochi_2004_09_13-16/41_azusa-gawa_river_from_myojin-bridge_downstream.jpg

looks like light gray with a little bit of blue

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Those are two very different rivers--one with a wide floodplain, and one in an incised gorge. If you're going for the lower-river, small-flow/wide floodplain look, the gray would probably be  more convincing. IMHO, FWIW.  :grin

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SONIC883_de

Sure, they are very different. I will try to make a mixture of them. The riverbed has a hole infront and behind the bridge, there I want make the water quiter. unter the bridge the water will become divided and the riverbed will be not so deep. The deeper areas become a blue-green (tourquise?) water.

 

To add only a little bit color is very difficult. I think I will try a grey and with the light brown I will make a small piece for trying the coloring (which color with how many water, ...)

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SONIC883_de

I have decide me for a brown color, because it looks more realistic.

The color is dark brown wood stain. After drying I add some red sand.

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That's an interesting color.  If you hadn't posted that picture of the Japanese alps earlier, I'd say it looks more like the American southwest than Japan, since it doesn't fit my preconception of what a Japanese mountain stream should look like (I favor the gray color too). Obviously, my ideas of what Japanese scenery look like are too narrow.

 

But it does look real, and I like the way you've used different textures and color-density across the riverbed.  That kind of variation is an important aspect of real-world scenery, and one that most layout scenery (including mine) doesn't get right.

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SONIC883_de

It isn't finished yet. The side walls become green. Than it looks like the grand canyon :-)

 

EDIT:

 

Looks this better? I had only done the front half. On top where the earth not slide down trees will be planted.

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SONIC883_de

*givedisturbmanastraw*

 

Thank you. I havent found the right water for me now. 1k, 2K? How to color? Which color? ...

Many questions... I will have a look in local board and have a look how they made it

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Kia - It looks great. What do you plan to use to simulate water and how do you apply it? (Do you block up the sides and if so with what?)

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going to try the white glue technique? seems like it works well for moving water. ive never done it but want to try soon! always seems to be the method of choice for all the japanese diorama projects ive seen detailed.

 

cheers

 

jeff

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SONIC883_de

I won't make many experiments. At this reason I will use Modelwater for it. But I haven't decide for a product, yet.

Maybe this one http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/C1211/page/1

 

All other methodes are good ideas for smaller water, but I think I need up to 100-150ml.

 

Do you have seen water made with silicone?

http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=143&Itemid=4338

 

No, I want use it for this modul, but it is another idea which looks good.

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WS Realistic water is very good but expensive if you have to use a lot of it. (Which I still need to do but the cost has stopped be....)  :confused1:

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