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N700 versus N700A ??


domino

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If you type your question in google you will get lots of answers...

 

Summary:

The N700-1000 series, or "N700A" (with "A" standing for "Advanced"), is a new version of the N700 series design delivered from August 2012, and entering revenue service from 8 February 2013.  The new version is externally identical to the existing N700 series sets, with the addition of new "N700A" logos on each odd-numbered car.   The new trains will include modified brake discs, bogie vibration detection, and ATC improvements.

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Perhaps an expansion of this topic? Still on Topic, whats the difference between Kato's N700A and Tomix N700A?

 

Kato's N700A has been released! http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10222885

Looks good, i mean, it's actually the same as the N700, just the additional giantic 'A'. It seems on HS site that there is a tilting mechanism on the actual train, but will the tilting mechanism also be on the model?

 

Already pre-booked my Tomix's N700A, cause i prefer the Tomix interior lightings. But now that i look at it, what if Kato has the tilting mechanism but Tomix doesn't? Anyone got the Kato N700A delivered? Does it have the tilting mechanism?  

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Hello Mr JR500

 

Kato Website:

実車にも装着されている車体傾斜機構を装備

 

I am pleased to inform you that the N700A Kato model is equipped with tilt mechanism.

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Thank you Ochanomizu san!

 

As opposed to Tomix's description:

 

新製品インフォメーション 2013年10月発売予定
 
JR東海承認申請中
進化するN700系…
N700系1000番代 登場!
・フライホイール付動力採用
・可動幌、フック・リング式通電カプラー採用
・新集電システム 銀色車輪採用
・カラーシート採用
・号車番号・禁煙マーク・JRマーク印刷済
・車番・グレードアップ用転写シート付属
 
I know that '可動幌' means movable hood from goggle translator, but does that equal to tilting mechanism? Come to think about it, i have never seen a model produced by Tomix that has the tilting mechanism that Kato has, like in the Super Azusa, Kamome and Super Oozora.. Perhaps the Tomix doesn't have this tilting mechanism? 
 
Good point is that there is power coupler on the Tomix. I know the power coupler is good for electric transfer, but does that means the current flows better and hence better interior lighting on the cars can be expected? 
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Good point is that there is power coupler on the Tomix. I know the power coupler is good for electric transfer, but does that means the current flows better and hence better interior lighting on the cars can be expected? 

 

the tomix all wheel pickup where power is connected between every car thru the couplers means you will probably never see flicker! you have every wheel picking up power and delivering it to all cars! its really nice, never seen any stutter or head/tail light flicker on the tomix all wheel pickup models. love them for that! 

 

dont think the tomix has the tilt though.

 

the new kato has a new coupler though that is very similar to the 500 coupler and hopefully lots better than the original n700 kato coupler/diaphragm system. while it was pretty with the diaphragm floating in the right spot, it was not a good runner. sometimes it can run quite a while ok on the jrm layout kato viaduct (which most all trains do fine on) but other times its hard pressed to get it to make it around 2 laps w/o derailing (with 16 car train). tomix n700 16 car goes round and round and round no problems! the kato n700 was probably the most frustrating kato/ma/tomix train ive ever tried to run and i ended up selling it and buying a tomix... so hopefully the new kato n700a coupler will fix this issue and i think they are re-releasing the n700 too, if memory serves me right, so perhaps fixing it there as well.

 

jeff

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the tomix all wheel pickup where power is connected between every car thru the couplers means you will probably never see flicker! you have every wheel picking up power and delivering it to all cars! its really nice, never seen any stutter or head/tail light flicker on the tomix all wheel pickup models. love them for that! 

 

dont think the tomix has the tilt though.

 

the new kato has a new coupler though that is very similar to the 500 coupler and hopefully lots better than the original n700 kato coupler/diaphragm system. while it was pretty with the diaphragm floating in the right spot, it was not a good runner. sometimes it can run quite a while ok on the jrm layout kato viaduct (which most all trains do fine on) but other times its hard pressed to get it to make it around 2 laps w/o derailing (with 16 car train). tomix n700 16 car goes round and round and round no problems! the kato n700 was probably the most frustrating kato/ma/tomix train ive ever tried to run and i ended up selling it and buying a tomix... so hopefully the new kato n700a coupler will fix this issue and i think they are re-releasing the n700 too, if memory serves me right, so perhaps fixing it there as well.

 

jeff

Thanks Jeff! That's good news for me! The absence of the tilting will be sad though, it would be great to see the N700A tilt like the Super Azusa... Pity..

 

Wow didn't know the Kato N700 was that bad... I was contemplating on buying the Tomix or Kato N700 then, as i really wanted the N700 for it being almost the most famous bullet train in Japan (you can see pictures on the net with the N700 (formerly was the 0, 100, 300, 700 and now N700) zooming in front of Fuji san). Fortunately for me, delaying that was good so now i can get the N700A which is of course alot better! Now i can skip the N700 altogether now, good for a poor man like myself ~~

 

 

Hello Mr JR500,

 

You are correct.  Tomix model N700A is not equipped with tilt mechanism.

Thanks Ochanomizu san. That's sad... Any idea what does 可動幌 means? Movable hood? Not sure what does hood in Shinkansen refers to...

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Guest keio6000

i have over 20 shinkansen sets in my collection.  For n700 i chose kato.  i read cteno's opinions on the n700 before choosing which, but chose kato anyway because i have a slight kato bias, and, honestly, i have not had any problems with the couplers or train in general, running as an 8-car unit.  

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Martijn Meerts

To be fair though, the older Tomix all wheel pickup sets do have some issues as well. Took them a couple of models to iron it all out. I have a couple of the early sets where the couplers are so tight, it derails at curves. I haven't really looked at fixing the problem yet considering I don't have a layout ;)

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Might be only the 16 car that the issues show up on the kato n700. I had bought the full 16 car formation and was always trying to get the full formation to run. i only pulled single cars out at a time to see if i could locate a bad coupler, but never found one, was just cranky. i think it may have been the diaphragms that would stick and cause a truck to go off. the JRM curves are standard kato double viaducts and we run just about every shinkansen out there and most all full formations and few if any issues. This was the worst.

 

glad to hear the 8 car formation behaves well! 

 

Martijn, wasnt the tomix original n700 the first all wheel pickup model? if so thats what i got and its never had an issue on the jrm layout, probably one of the cleanest running i have.

 

cheers

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

Jeff, not sure, but I do have a Tomix 0 series and 100 series that both have issues, while the much later 300 series is just fine. Maybe it's just my bad luck again :)

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In looking at hs i think the n700 was the first with the all wheel pickup. models just before it did not have it and most all those after (except for direct rereleases) have it.

 

sounds like the cars are a bit too close on those or the diaphragms may be tight. i have had a few cranky tomix shinkansen cars where the side walls of the car scrape a little on the diaphragms sides and thus get tight and you dont get the full swing on curves. i think we may have talked about this in the past. anyhow a little bending out of the side wall and just a touch of dry silicon lubricant on the side of the diaphragms did the trick.

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts
In looking at hs i think the n700 was the first with the all wheel pickup. models just before it did not have it and most all those after (except for direct rereleases) have it.

 

sounds like the cars are a bit too close on those or the diaphragms may be tight. i have had a few cranky tomix shinkansen cars where the side walls of the car scrape a little on the diaphragms sides and thus get tight and you dont get the full swing on curves. i think we may have talked about this in the past. anyhow a little bending out of the side wall and just a touch of dry silicon lubricant on the side of the diaphragms did the trick.

 

jeff

 

It's not the sides of the diaphragms.. If I put 2 cars on the track and make sure the diaphragms are in their normal straight position, the cars just refuse to couple together.. It's more or less like either the diaphragms are too big, or the couplers too short, but that seems unlikely, otherwise more people would've been talking about it :)

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oooh not good... is it all the cars or just some? wonder if somehow the diaphragm was installed just a tad out, but last time i took one of those apart i cant recall a way that could happen, but maybe the new versions are different, have not taken apart the n700 yet.

 

ive only the n700 and 700 dr yellow with the new couplers and those connect easily. i dont think anyone in the club has the new 0 or 100 tomix, but ill check.

 

good luck and let us know the solution!

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

Just had a quick look at some cars of the 0 series and N700.. Seems I was mistaken, and the 0 series is actually fine (or at least, the 10 cars I tried had no issues .. ) but the N700 was showing the problem. It's not all cars, and some are worse than others.. The N700 3-car base set has issues with the motor car and 1 of the cab cars. With a little bit of force it's possible to couple them and they seem fine afterwards (due to the little wiggle room in the couplers I guess). The diaphragms themselves can rotate freely.

 

However, I remember from testing it quite a while ago, that there were at least 2 cars so tight, the diaphragms wouldn't level out after a curve, and they would derail regularly. Having a quick look, I think the only possible fix is to sand down the diaphragms a little bit on the back so there's a little more play. It's probably a matter of a couple of tenths of a millimeter.

 

I do wonder if it's just my set though.. You'd think if it was a common problem there'd be some blog posts about it somewhere ..

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martijn,

 

cool, makes sense. yes they are a tight fit, thus any sticky diaphragms would cause the issue you describe! might try lubing with some dry silicone, that worked well for my e4. its invisible but it make it slip by the edge of the body smoothly. i also just bent out the shell a tad where i could at the end. ive also had tomix diaphragms go back together a bit off when i reassembled them and required opening and wiggling and repopping back together.

 

jeff

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