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Multiple Coupler Types Question


Davo Dentetsu

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Davo Dentetsu

Heh, it's time again for yet another of Davo's odd questions.

 

I bought two or three older style goods wagons, one by Tomix (CHIKI stake wagon) and Kato (car carrier and brake van).  The two Kato ones use the smaller type knuckle couplers, so I had to make up an Arnold end to use the three together.  I also notice that the coach sets use Arnold for the outside two couplers but also use the smaller type on the rest of the connections.

 

So my question is more for those who do fairly realistic operations on a layout (i.e. shunting and stock moving).  Do you have locos with different couplers at each end?  Or is it a case of pick one type and standardize everything to that?  Mind you, with the coach set, that latter option couldn't really work...

 

How do you guys and gals get around that particular issue?

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Guest Closed Account 1

I prefer short shank knuckles. Tighter gaps.

 

No Arnolds left.  I don't run tight curves.

 

Can you show us a pic of the set of cars with different couplets?

 

We're there used? Then someone switched the couplers.

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Davo Dentetsu

Sure, here is a pic.

 

PIC_1863.jpg

 

I know the old Arnold is a bit of a bulky thing, but I'm a fan of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" (as an ex-Datsun owner, I had amended it to "If it ain't broke, it probably needs fixing anyway")

 

These were of used stock, the car carrier now sporting an Arnold at one end so it can be used in a fixed formation at the very least.

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Guest Closed Account 1

I see now.

 

The setup works for you so leave it. 

 

Knuckle couplers with coil springs have a little more grip (vertical) on each other before they separate. Like a Kung Fu grip.

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Davo,

 

As usual I didn't read your question properly ...  :cool:

 

I don't run any freight.  The only locos I have are for pulling track cleaning cars.  They currently have the big knuckle couplers as shown in your photo.  In tme if I can, I'll be changing them over to the one in my previous link.  I like realistic looking couplers.

 

With my pax trains, I'm slowly changing over the big knuckles to the smaller Tomix TN Janney or the TN Scharfenberg, depending on how the train is coupled prototypically.  For this reason, I tend to buy more Tomix models, which often have the right coupler, instead of MicroAce, which often have those big ugly knuckles.  Paying more for a consist with better couplers saves time, and sometimes money.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

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Davo Dentetsu

Food for thought for sure.  It's possible this will end up a one-off anomoly, as the second-hand sales were from a sale of deceased estate stock.  Will probably end up more of a scenic filler than a regular usage.

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The couplers in the photo look like they are the kato cheap ones forget the item code off hand.

 

I have these on all my freight and on my MA c11 and 9600 steamers.

 

Pulls up 14 cars up a 4 - 4.5% gradient fine,

 

I think if you look at my YouTube mrkeitarotrain page I have some kawai hoki's x 6 they are quite heavy with the coal added I never had them uncouple after adding the kato ones.

 

I also tried the micro trains short and long shank rebadged as kato.

 

They are good but expensive 4 couplers of my for 20 of those kato plastics.

 

Also they need assembling which I found a pain I.e required glue to hold together

 

 

Edit

Nvm I must not have uploaded that video.

 

 

This video though has the real line d5196 pulling some freight using the couplers I think the flat bed at the end of train is only done 1 side at the time of video.

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Davo Dentetsu

The video is private, but I've subscribed through my MonaroDoorslammer channel nevertheless. :)

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Guest Closed Account 1

Can someone tell us the dimensions of an HO coupler spring?

 

I need a spring longer than a Kato N scale coil spring.

 

I'm replacing the Tomix Thomas couplers with short shanks and there's no tension with the stock Tomix springs.

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