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keitaro

World kougei deki kit

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westfalen

There's no room for additional weight.. There might not even be room for a decoder ;)

 

Wheel balancing weight are probably bigger than the loco itself  :grin

If you really want a decoder you could do what my brother is thinking of doing with his Tsugawa deki for DCC after seeing my video of the Mitsui Miike Railway, have a battery car with a small decoder lying flat under a dummy load of batteries.

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keitaro

There's no room for additional weight.. There might not even be room for a decoder ;)

 

Wheel balancing weight are probably bigger than the loco itself  :grin

If you really want a decoder you could do what my brother is thinking of doing with his Tsugawa deki for DCC after seeing my video of the Mitsui Miike Railway, have a battery car with a small decoder lying flat under a dummy load of batteries.

great idea!

 

i pulled the bugger apart last night and put tape over and re soldered the wires etc but it still shorts in the shell.

 

I have come to the conculsion that i need to paint a thick coat of paint internally as this should stop the shell working as a pickup?

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cteno4

Keitaro,

 

is perhaps one of the connections grounded to a larger metal part that then can connect to the chassis ground thru the shell?

 

sure its a short and not something just getting stuck when the chassis is in the shell?

 

or could it be shorting because when the chassis is in the shell two connections inside the chassis are getting pushed together and shorting?

 

painting the inside of the shell should do the trick, but will run the risk of any of the sharp bits that may be sticking out that were shorting might eventually scratch/wear thru the paint to eventually short again.

 

best of luck figuring it out. its one of those grrrr type things.

 

jeff

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keitaro

the chasis is seperated via plastic washers so i know it's not shorting by solder or anything.

 

I know the shel rubs on both the metal block the pickup and the wires solder so i think it is hitting the body and shorting. I tried tape over the solder and it still shorted so i'm sure the chasis is the issue.

 

I will paint tonight and retry if i get a chance. I have to populate my 2 ginzas soon and the other tobu as the light kits are in transit here.

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cteno4

keitaro,

 

if you want a tougher coating you might think of putting a thin coat of 2 part epoxy onto the outer exposed regions of the chassis parts that are hot with power. that stuff cures really tough. might be easier than trying to coat the interior of the shell.

 

paint may work for a while, but with vibration or more disassembles/reassemblies it might eventually rub through.

 

jeff

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keitaro

For those interested i was thinking this could be modified to use powered catenary since the wires on motor are just below the roof one could drill small holes and make slight modifictaion to the catenary.

 

i have always been confused about putting the 2 wires onto the cantenary would some sort of change be needed to be made to stop shorting?

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cteno4

well if you are talking of doing live catenary then you only run one wire to the catenary and the other goes to the track. usually both rails are wired together so you can flip the car around. then your wheel pickups are wired to one pole of the motor and the pantograph to the other motor pole and one pole of your power pack is wired to both rails and the other to the catenary.

 

live catenary is a bit of work to wire your catenary. also need to make spring loaded pantographs to keep the contact up on the catenary wire.

 

cheers

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

Been working on my Deki a bit as well. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures so far :)

 

I initially put the mechanism together to give it a test run, and it ran great. It was actually quite fun seeing a tiny thing like that whizz across the track, very hypnotic ;)

 

Once tested, I took out the wheels, masked off some bits and pieces, and airbrushed the chassis. I also started soldering the shell, which is really not easy at all. I've been using a Dremel micro-torch, since my soldering station isn't meant for this stuff. Using the torch definitely requires a bit of practice, but I'm starting to get the hang of it. Of course, the Deki, due to it being tiny, isn't the best model to start with :)

 

One problem with the shell being so small, it that it heats up fairly quick, and some soldered joints will melt again. I did get it together reasonably well in the end, there's a few cracks here and there, but a tiny bit of putty will fix that. The small detail parts I'll glue on.

 

It's quite fun working on the kits, but the instructions aren't always correct I've noticed. I've had time where they wanted me to tap thread using an M1.4 tap, but the hole was actually much bigger.. I'm starting to understand their instruction sheets a bit though, and they use a lot of common terms on all of them, which helps :)

 

What I still haven't figured out, is the couplers.. The kit includes a pair of rapido couplers, which are almost as big as the loco itself. As an alternative, I believe they mention a Micro Trains coupler, but I've never used them, and they're not likely to be compatible with either Kato or Tomix. Not sure yet what to do there.

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keitaro

the rapido work fine.

 

the coupler can be a regular kato knucke you get.

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10003621it fits a bit loose but it works. I'll snap a pic of mine tonight if i can.

 

Mine kept shorting so i am not using the motor but i will show you a pic.

 

I have half painted it....

 

For now the cantenary is not assembled who knows if i dig it out of one of the many unpacked boxes since moving i may as well fix up all the unassembled pieces.

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Martijn Meerts

I haven't had the courage to run it with the shell on, there's too many globs of tin that need to be removed first  :grin

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keitaro

i don't have the tn on as i am using a motorised car behind it once i get around to it.

 

Heres a quick video of what i have done for now. needs better painting and decals plus finish the catenary.

 

I am leaving the front coupler off as i will not be using it. Also like you i will try add a led at the front.

 

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Martijn Meerts

It looks good :)

 

I'm still not sure how to paint it. All black is obviously the easiest, but the black/red/cream version looks interesting as well. The biggest problem is getting the correct colors of course (something which is a problem for some of the other kits as well)

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keitaro

the colours are on the instruction are they not?

 

i'll have to look. I'm just going for the regular black paint with the decals.

 

the black perfectly matches the black on realline models too.

 

edit* also i ordered the motor unit today, i was thinking of using a flatbed with some batteries or just a tarp coloured fabric tied over to look like hiding maintainance equipment.

 

Even maybe a wamu 50000 motorised. havn't decided.

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Martijn Meerts

I have no idea if the colors are in the instructions actually. If they are, the question is whether they have their own range of paints, of if they list which colors to mix from a more popular brand of paint (Tamiya or, more likely, Gunze)

 

Obviously, they knew which paints to mix considering they also have the pre-painted models available :)

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keitaro

I motorised a wamu 50000 and it now pushes the deki as a set the deki is missing it's weight so it derailed a bit easy on the bit of uneven track.

 

you can see the other not motorised wamu in the movie i have yet to put the detail on the bogies.

 

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