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Kato Signal Track & Power Pack


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Hey, I'm looking to buy a pair of those Kato signal/track deals and I know it requires the 3-way signal power pack. I am assuming that because the signals are running on this independent power supply that it does not need to be tied in to the standard Kato power pack? Is this correct? Or do I still need a standard Kato power pack?

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10003083

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CaptOblivious

As I understand it, you just need the 24-884 three-way signal power pack. The track shouldn't need to be powered for the signal to work. You certainly don't need the Kato throttle specifically. As I understand it, the 24-884 powerpack basically just provides a constant 12VDC, so you might not even need that specific powerpack, if you have your own 12VDC power supply.

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As I understand it, you just need the 24-884 three-way signal power pack. The track shouldn't need to be powered for the signal to work. You certainly don't need the Kato throttle specifically. As I understand it, the 24-884 powerpack basically just provides a constant 12VDC, so you might not even need that specific powerpack, if you have your own 12VDC power supply.

 

I had wondered if I could wire those into my MRC power pack, but in a way, I kind of like having an independent power supply separate from track power. That way I could powered them separately or cut them off without having to wire in a switch.

 

The Tech II 2500 has var DC out, Fixed AC out and fixed DC out, but I believe the fixed DC out is Voc rated at 20VDC

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Think I actually accidentally locked a thread about this I had already made. Anycase, I have two 3-color unitrack signals and the Japanese power supply to go with it. I want to connect it to a MRC Tech II 2500 power pack but the directions on the American 3-signal pack looks vague, and do not expect the Japanese version to have any better instructions. 

 

From, what I could tell on the American instructions is that I can connect the signals to the MRC power pack via the Kato signal power where it then has to go to a fixed VDC out? The output of the Tech II 2500 is 20VDC, but the diagram looks like it read 17VDC which I find to be a rather odd output for any power pack.

 

My question is this correct in that the connection from the power pack to the 3-signal splitter power pack is 17VDC? And if so, then would it require a resistor somehow to step down the power? Or is there already a resistor inside the 3-signal power supply that manages this already?

 

Follow up questions would be, or am I reading these instructions completely wrong

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CaptOblivious

Any chance you could post a scan of the instructions? That would be helpful. I might be able to translate some of the Japanese for you, and we could see if that sheds new light.

 

MG Sharp says (although, why trust them?) it wants 12VDC.

http://www.kato-unitrack.co.uk/kato-unitrack-20-605-fully-working-colour-light-signal-1448-0.html

 

I don't have one of these (nor, indeed, any Unitrack at all), but I wish I could be of help.

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Any chance you could post a scan of the instructions? That would be helpful. I might be able to translate some of the Japanese for you, and we could see if that sheds new light.

 

MG Sharp says (although, why trust them?) it wants 12VDC.

http://www.kato-unitrack.co.uk/kato-unitrack-20-605-fully-working-colour-light-signal-1448-0.html

 

I don't have one of these (nor, indeed, any Unitrack at all), but I wish I could be of help.

 

I need a day or two to get the instructions scanned. I don't have the power box yet. It's in transit. The instruction I read were the US ones from a box at he local hobby shop. I ordered mine from HS becasue aside from the fact that it was cheaper by ten dollars, I was not sure if there were any inherent difference between the US pack and the Jp pack when used with the Jp signals.

 

In retrospect I do not think there would be since the US and Jp are essentially the same when it comes to power requirements.

 

Right, the 3-signal power pack steps all voltage down to 12VDC. But I have to connect that blue 3-signal pack to my MRC which is 20VDC. The instructions I saw show the connection between the 3-signal power pack and the Kato Power Pack as 17VDC.

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imagelg2.gif

 

This is how I remember the wire diagram looking like. To me, I thought the 3-signal power pack was more like a voltage regulator or transform. And maybe this is a case of lost in translation. It sounds like from what I read that these signals and their circuitry were dead set on operating at 12VDC not one volt over or under.

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Since I accidentally locked the original post, something I'm not sure how I did, and with some follow up investigation and brainstorming. I think I may have two solutions.

 

1. Just strip the wire from the signal power pack and splice it into a 17VDC wall wart (wall mount AC Adapter) and by pass using the power supply altogether. I'm not sure why the hell I hadn't thought about this earlier.

 

2. Just buy a damn Kato power pack. This makes sense now as there was a missing piece of the puzzle that I didn't see., (There's an adapter from the power pack to the wiring that I was unaware of. I thoguht that was the AD-DC converter that had not quick connection.) With that little snap on piece with the quick connect plug, I'd just run it the way it was designed.

 

I'd really hate to lose my MRC Tech II 2500, becasue I love the breaking and momentum. Though the momentum control works way too slow on N-scale for me to like.

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CaptOblivious

Well, buying a Kato power-pack certainly is an option. But if it really does want 17VDC, then I cannot imagine why wiring it up to your MRC (with resistor) isn't an option…

 

Also, man, what's with everyone changing their Avatars. I am so easily confused…

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Well, buying a Kato power-pack certainly is an option. But if it really does want 17VDC, then I cannot imagine why wiring it up to your MRC (with resistor) isn't an option…

 

Also, man, what's with everyone changing their Avatars. I am so easily confused…

 

Jeff suggested I do a resistor or the wall wart. I think I just might go and get the Kato Power Pack. I got a decent tax return this year so I suppose spending a few hundred on the layout stuff is ok since I'm not going back to Japan this year. (I made a decent sized order on HobbySearch a few days ago)

 

I change my avatar every 90 days (3 months) on the boards.

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I just bought the damn Kato power pack today.  I'm sorta glad I did, I think the MRC has more juice than I needed, and it's getting pretty old so it went out to pasture.

 

After receiving the Japanese power pack for the signals which shipped with the English instructions. To connect the 3-way signal power module to Tech II, it wants 17VAC.

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CaptOblivious

After receiving the Japanese power pack for the signals which shipped with the English instructions. To connect the 3-way signal power module to Tech II, it wants 17VAC.

 

AC, huh? That's a bit harder to get from a DC supply :D

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Yeah it sure is. Glad I just bought the Kato, now all I need to do is wait for that stupid AC accessory connector to come it. It amazes me that all my local hobby shops carry the 3-signal power supply and the 3-color signals, and wiring but not the adapter to plug it in to the Kato power pack which they too sell. Even at the Great Train Show this weekend, I couldn't find one.

 

The 17VAC is such a strange voltage too. A bunch of of the guys on the club were expecting it to have been 12VDC.

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"The Red means Stop, the Green means Go, and the Yellow means Go Faster." :D from the movie Starman

or that's how my teenage niece looks at a traffic light.

 

The Yellow really means proceed with caution, expect to stop at next signal.

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LOL ...

 

but I mean in this case, what does the kato 3-color-signal do? does it change color when a train goes pass? does the next train stop at the signal when it is red?  :)

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Martijn Meerts

Bernard, I think most people nowadays consider yellow to be "go faster" .. Well, except in Oslo, where people don't really care what the light says =)

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LOL ...

 

but I mean in this case, what does the kato 3-color-signal do? does it change color when a train goes pass? does the next train stop at the signal when it is red?  :)

 

Correct. The signal reads green. Once the train passes the signal, it switches to red for 3 seconds, before switching over to amber for 3 seconds before going back to green.

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Aaron - Does the signal you purchased automatically switch lights after a train passes it?

Also is it possible to set it up as an automatic block, so that a waiting train on a siding can go once a train on the main time stops at the signal?

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Yes, the colors change automatically. Last night while checking tunnel ceiling restrictions I inadvertantly stopped the train between blocks. The light went red, while the stopped train was over it. It went through its cycles and then to green with the train on top of it. I started the train up and as soon as the first trucks crossed over it, went back to red and cycled through.

 

Interestingly enough the signals are always on as so long as the tracks are plugged in, but if the track has no power, the switches will not trip. The sensor is a little spring loaded rerailer like device. As soon as a metal wheel passes between the track through the wheel and connects the circuit to the switch, it trips the light.

 

It may be possible for an automatic block to occur. In fact the first time I ran it I thoguht that perhaps the reason the voltage requires were as they were was becasue it may have had that capability built it. Sadly it does not. However in theory, someone good with electronics probably could retrofit the system to perform that.

 

There is one catch to the system. Kato clearly notes it will not work with DCC. 90% of the questions on the Unitrack forum asking about the Kato 3-color signals are about how to convert them over. Some of the threads are pretty long, so I suspect that it can be done. As to whether it is difficult or not, IDK, I'm not really into DCC.

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CaptOblivious

There is one catch to the system. Kato clearly notes it will not work with DCC. 90% of the questions on the Unitrack forum asking about the Kato 3-color signals are about how to convert them over. Some of the threads are pretty long, so I suspect that it can be done. As to whether it is difficult or not, IDK, I'm not really into DCC.

 

For those interested in DCC conversion, there are extensive instructions in Japanese, English and Photos here:

http://wsim.cs.ehime-u.ac.jp/~shimizu/dcc-usamodel/n-decoder5.html

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