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Webskipper

DCC Decoder for Kato TGV K10918-25

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nik_n_dad

for nik's thalys and my AVE, we had the same problem that swapping out the factory board for the after-market board with the NEM-651 (6-pin) connector wouldn't allow the shell to go back on with a decoder installed.  What we ended up using is a 6-pin decoder from TCS that has a very short harness:

 

http://tcsdcc.com/public_html/Zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_58&products_id=410

 

Our LHS, caboose hobbies stocks them at a discounted price:

 

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=175984&osCsid=sq4djpobd70vo2coi2jlcg5cn3

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Webskipper

When was this model first released?

 

On the Eurostar:

 

I used a TCS K0D8A decoder.  All I had to do was resolder the rear LED so it will face forward, and reprogram. More functions than the EUN651.

 

You might also try removing the 2 body stiffeners. 2 small tabs hanging down. It'll make the shell rock and not lock to the chassis.

 

The Eurostar shell fits perfectly now.

 

The 2 yellow body length pieces are fragile. Do not remove.

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tony1hump

Has anyone converted their TGV duplex to DCC? If so do you still want the small PCB you removed as the one on mine, the small resistor has gone, so mine won't run at all. I haven't got round to DCCing the layout as I have quite a few loco / sets that wont accept decoders.

 

Thanks

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Webskipper

Same 6-pin nem decoder style as the New Thalys.

 

I recommend TCS Eun651

 

Read the whole topic.

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surfingstephens

Hi all, finally broke down and bought one of these because they are on sale at a very low price.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kato-N-K10918-TGV-NEW-Thalys-with-Display-Track-p/kat-k10918.htm

 

Ordered the dcc controllers as listed and will be doing my second installation.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Train-Control-Systems-1298-EUN651-Small-Decoder-p/tcs-1298.htm

 

My most basic question is how do get the engine opened up without damaging it. Do I just need to work around the edges with a small screw driver to get the tabs loose?   Any tips are appreciated.

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Spaceman Spiff

I see the MTS price has gone up. It's been $299 for the last few weeks. At $319 its still a good price.

 

I don't have the Thalys version but I imagine it's the same as my other ones. Take note of the way the coupler in postioned. On the back end of the loco, there is black piece of plastic that is U shaped, pull that off. It takes very little effort to take it off. To take the shell you may need to insert a small screw driver, business card etc on the side of it to pop it off. Then just pull up. The coupler will probably be loose. Resinstall by doing the reverse.

 

The decoder install is straight forward. If the decoder doesnt work initially it could be that the decoder is in upside down. On the older versions, the contact from the DCC board to the loco can be finicky.

 

 

Spiff

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surfingstephens

I see the MTS price has gone up. It's been $299 for the last few weeks. At $319 its still a good price.

 

I don't have the Thalys version but I imagine it's the same as my other ones. Take note of the way the coupler in postioned. On the back end of the loco, there is black piece of plastic that is U shaped, pull that off. It takes very little effort to take it off. To take the shell you may need to insert a small screw driver, business card etc on the side of it to pop it off. Then just pull up. The coupler will probably be loose. Resinstall by doing the reverse.

 

The decoder install is straight forward. If the decoder doesnt work initially it could be that the decoder is in upside down. On the older versions, the contact from the DCC board to the loco can be finicky.

 

 

Spiff

Thanks!!    I often wonder why KATO(and most manufacturers)  do not publish instructions for all of these trains.  They build them so you can make them DCC and then offer no really good instructions on how to do them nor do they offer what pieces you need to buy (dcc controller) for a particular train.   If they published good instructions with pictures it would eliminate a LOT of headaches.   Thank goodness for sites like these that enable people to share their knowledge on how to work on these trains.

 

Without your comments how I would I even know to look out for this U shaped piece on the back of the train!

 

Looks like I just got a "fair" price on the train, but still happy because at this point it seems they are getting harder to find and the guys on ebay are wanting much more.    

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Webskipper

I stopped using 2.5mm flat tip screwdrivers to pry open my trains.

 

I use the plastic coffee stirrers from starbucks to slimjim the shells off.

 

Ease off the black square bracket off the back end. Then slim jim the body shell off the chassis using a stirrer on each side. The chassis might just slip out with gravity.

 

Do this to both end cars. Slip in your 6-Pin decoder and program the Trailing end car to function in reverse.

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surfingstephens

I stopped using 2.5mm flat tip screwdrivers to pry open my trains.

 

I use the plastic coffee stirrers from starbucks to slimjim the shells off.

 

Ease off the black square bracket off the back end. Then slim jim the body shell off the the chassis. The chassis might just slip out with gravity.

 

Do this to both end cars. Slip in your 6-Pin decoder and program the Trailing end car to function in reverse.

 

 

I have a stack of those Starbucks stirrers in my center console...now I have some use for them.  Chuckle.  I will let you all know how the install goes when the train arrives later this week.

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elGatoGordo

Yet another Kato Thalys question.  Where can I find a parts diagram?  At the Rocky Mountain Train Show I bumped the layout and knocked my Thalys off the table (modified table since then).  The M1 driver was damaged and the little black square piece that holds it all together was lost.  The pantos were broken.  I'd like to order parts, but cannot find a parts diagram.

 

Also, the headlight/taillights haven't worked for quite some time.  Even before I converted to DCC with an ESU micro V4 6 pin decoder.  Cannot seem to measure any voltage at the lights.  Ideas?

 

Thanks - and I apologize for dredging up an old topic - simply found it in my parts search.

 

Cheers!

Gordon

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Spaceman Spiff

elGatoGordo,

 

Do you have the original part list included with the train? If so you may be able to order the parts from Kato USA.

 

I have ordered TGV parts in the past from:

 

https://www.en.dm-toys.de/index.html

 

 

Model train stuff has been carrying more Kato spare parts of late.

 

Spiff

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Randall Wood

I recently got a used Kato Thalys PBKA (K10910) that I would like to convert to DCC. These units do not have EUN651 sockets on their circuit boards. Is there a recommended replacement board that's available these days?

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