Tram Tracks, what material to use?

[Bernard]

I'm in the process of making a Tram layout and have already laid down the flex track. Now my next problem, covering the flex track so it looks like a tram line with street inserts in the middle. Here are some test I'm done using Lite-Spackle as a cover. I'm not sure yet as to the Pros & Cons of using this material but it's easy to spread, can be sanded, and you can paint over it. Also it is not too hard to remove.

Here are 2 tests I've done with it. The first series of photos (2) show the track covered including the inside area. The next set (3) is just the outer area of the track. If I go with just the Spackle on the outside of the rails, what can I use for the middle portion?

[CaptOblivious]

Spackle looks good. I love spackle as a modeling substance. So easy to work with, and with a coat of paint hardens up pretty good. I say spackle the middles, too, but I presume you have a way of clearing the flangeways?

 

Otherwise, you might could use a very thin, long piece of cork, perhaps? Like cork bedding, but on top of the track :D

[Claude_Dreyfus]

This could be a very interesting topic, as tram tracks is something we are considering...

 

One possible, albeit extremely fiddly option we are wondering about is a scaled-down version of the process we used on our 00 layout. This layout has a docks section, where the track is set into the road. Here we fitted two N gauge rails between the 00/H0 tracks then filled with something like DAS modelling clay. An obvious idea, but not neccessarily practical, was to scale this down - Z track within N. We will be carrying out some tests over the next few weeks to see if this is as daft an idea as it sounds...

 

I'll post a picture later on to explain what I'm on about...

 

Switches may be 'challenging' using this method though...

 

An alternative idea would be to use thin card to act as a filler between the rails.

 

If you do use the spackle option (I'm not too sure what it is, but looks very much like a clay/filler cross), then it is important to ensure you keep any of the material from the inside of the rail, as N gauge ain't very forgiving (as you will know) of even the slightest bump on the track.

 

Something else to think about... You can get this flexi road stuff, which is a sticky-back material (Noch, Faller etc). Although probably a bit thin, I have used this on level crossings in the past and looks not too bad from a distance. Being thin it does have the advantage of not fouling any loco gears or low-level detailing bits, so you don't get derailments or stuff stuck when you run trains over it...

 

Be interested to see what else is suggested....

[disturbman]

Otherwise, you might could use a very thin, long piece of cork, perhaps? Like cork bedding, but on top of the track :D

 

A 1mm or 2mm thick sheet of cork could be a good idea. Easy to work with... I'm not sure what you would then put on top of it to give it some street texture.

[Claude_Dreyfus]

As I was mentioning, attached is a picture showing the technique used in our 00 layout for setting track into the roadway...

[Bernard]

Claude - Thanks for the photo, it explains a lot with how you accomplished this on a OO layout. Now I wonder if Z scale track will fit.

 

On the first test with the Spackle (Claude in the US Spackle is a substance that is used to sometimes cover cracks/holes in walls if homes, it can be sanded down to be flush with the wall and then painted) I took a set of N scale trucks and ran it over the spackle to set a groove in the track. One of my biggest concerns is that the spackle doesn't get in the gears of the train and also to make sure it is flush with the rails so it doesn't interfere with the operation of the train.

 

Other materials I'm thinking of testing is "Creative Foam", Cork, or thin stripes of styrene as inserts.

[cteno4]

bernard,

 

i have been experimenting for my ttrak street car modules and found a simple solution for the straight sections. i just build up with foam core and then 030 photo board to the outside of the rail top for the outside. on the inside of the rails i use a 0.25" x 060 styrene strip. this is on unitrak. i then top this with printouts of my roads.

 

curves are the problem. i started trying to cut out the exterior and interior pieces from 020 styrene for various radius curves and it was tough. i shelved it for the time being as i wanted to focus on the straight modules first and use the ru21 reversing system instead of a loop to begin with. then the unitram trak came out and doing corners looked to be solutions to do corner modules when i got to it!

 

i really love the idea of printing the roads, texture, markings, manholes, etc on textured drawing paper. you can even add in road stains and such with photoshop airbrush. or you can apply the weathering and staining after printing it out. i love it as i this lets me ideas out quickly unit i like it.

 

i have talked to others that have used the spackle approach and the one thing they said is that trying to clear the flangeway was the real pain. also solder all your track connections well as they may end up with some oxidation eventually and hard to dig up when embedded in spackle.

 

keep us posted will be interested to seeing your results!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Bernard]

Jeff - I think that is my next experiment using styrene sheets. The thickness of the sheet should be 0.25"x060"?

(need this info to buy styrene sheets. :icon_scratch:)

One plan is to take tracing paper, lay it on top of the rails, trace the rails and transfer the drawing to the sheets of styrene and cut the styrene with a scissor (this might work for the dreaded curves.) I might continue with the lite Spackle on just the outside of the rails and blend it into the road.

[CaptOblivious]

Otherwise, you might could use a very thin, long piece of cork, perhaps? Like cork bedding, but on top of the track :D

 

A 1mm or 2mm thick sheet of cork could be a good idea. Easy to work with... I'm not sure what you would then put on top of it to give it some street texture.

 

A very thin layer of spackle, perhaps?

[cteno4]

Bernard,

 

for the straight stretches i just buy the evergreen 060 x .25" strips that are like 14" long so just longer than i need for a ttrak module. i could buy a sheet of 060 probably and cut my own straight pieces with the mini table saw, but i was just lazy to begin with and will probably do this once i run out of the couple of packs i have.

 

for doing your experiments with the curved sections i would look at 020 styrene as it is thin enough to cut with scissors if you want. its thick enough that if you figure out the right thickness of other material like cardboard, foam core, etc to bring it up to the rail top height you would not have to have it totally cover the area and the styrene would be stable.

 

check out the local plastics supply place in your area as i bought a 4'x8' sheet of 020 styrene for like $5! thats like 6 bags of evergreen 020 sheets that are like $6 each and you have a huge hunk to play with for a larger area!

 

ill be interested in hearing your experiments. even if i dont do corners or use the untram for those i want to do some offset modules where ill need to do some curves and want to have roads going though some of those as well.

 

also as the captain mentioned perhaps some spackle will close the laast bit of gap to the track. harder on the inside edge, but there you have the flangeway that does not have to be perfect.

 

best of luck!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Bernard]

Another question, since it looks liek I'm going to Spackle the outside area of the Tram tracks that are part of the road, I noticed that the Kato sets have the roads "gray". Do I have the option of going "Black"?

Which shade is more prototypical?

[cteno4]

mostly dealers choice here i think. i have seen from almost white concrete to black tar asphalt! so just depends on where you are modeling if you want to be really prototypical or just prefer a certain look.

 

also fun to use google maps in satellite view to look at street colors, marking, features. quite fun to cruise over streets. you can also do it in a number of places at ground level (street view) which is also interesting for street details like sidewalks (or lack there of) poles, building placement relative to the street, etc.

 

cheers

jeff

[marknewton]

Bernard, can I suggest using the spackle between the rails? Over the years I've developed a few techniques for modelling tramway track, and they work just as well in N-scale. They also work well for modelling Japanese-style tramway track, which often uses plain rail, rather than girder rail or a separate check rail.

 

I apply an even coat of spackle between the rails and let it dry thoroughly. Once it's dry and I've sanded down any bumps or ripples I use a tool I made up to cut the flangeways into the spackle. This has a number of advantages over other methods - you don't get ugly gaps next to the rails, nor can you see the spike heads when looking down onto the track. I'll have to either find the tool, or make a sketch of it, but it's basically a piece of hacksaw blade with a depth stop attached. If you don't fancy soldering steel you could make one out of brass, since the spackle isn't very hard and is easily carved.

 

The only downside is that this method only works for plain track, not turnouts. But having said that, there are many examples I've seen where turnouts in the street weren't completely paved, so that's one way around the problem.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[Bernard]

Mark - Thanks, I am going to try the Spackle method first and hope it works. I realize I can sand it afterward and paint it. If you could show me a photo or sketch of the tool you are describing that would be great.

Someone told me he etched the gaps with X-acto blades but I'm wondering if that might break the dried Spackle? I'm going to do this process next week.

There are no turnouts on the double Tram line

 

Another concern with the gaps for the flanges, I noticed that the reason the Tomytech Portrams can make the extremely tight curve is that there is a lot of play between the flanges and rails. I have to make sure the Portram's flanges have room in the gaps I'm going to create with the Spackle.

[scott]

I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out--I was planning on just using foamboard or something like that. I've had spackle get away from me a few times.... 

[Bernard]

I've just finished doing the Tram line and I used Lite weight Spackle. Through all my tests, this gave the best results. I'll post it in Bullet Train extension thread.

[scott]

Boy, I wish I could have an idea and try it out that soon. :-)

[Lawrence]

I am gradually getting through the threads on the forum and this one caught my eye, and I would like to offer another method which I have seen work to very good effect.  If you have a picture framing shop in your area ask about picture mount cut offs (the bit the framer doesn't use when mounting a picture), these come in a variety of colours and have a textured surface.  The dark grey gives a very good impression of roadway or tarmac, theses mounts come in various thickness's and are easily cut and can be secured with white glue.  And as they are usually considered scrap material you should get them for nothing 

[Bernard]

Lawrence - Here is the thread that co-insides with this project:

http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,1987.0.html

[Lawrence]

Lawrence - Here is the thread that co-insides with this project:

http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,1987.0.html

 

I'm guessing that cut off frame mounts might not have fulfilled your requirements Bernard 

[Bernard]

Lawrence - Here is the thread that co-insides with this project:

http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,1987.0.html

 

I'm guessing that cut off frame mounts might not have fulfilled your requirements Bernard 

No framing shops in the area where my layout is.