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alpineaustralia

Installation of a decoder in a Tomix Series 300 shinkansen

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alpineaustralia

Has anyone had to install a decoder in a Tomix Series 300 shinkansen?

I have just installed a Digitrax DZ123 and there are 2 questions that I have in case any of you have delat with this before:

 

1. Originally the motor had a small item (what looks like a small brown capacitor marked "472" on the side of it) connected to both motor pick ups. I removed this when isolating the motor (as it shorted the motor out). Is it supposed to be installed some other way?

 

2. The train works but it takes a lttle while to start moving and then takes off in a hurry. Using 28 speed steps, I have to crank it up to (say) step 5 before it starts to crawl forward, while with all my other Kato conversions, the train starts to crawl at step 1 or 2.  The motor is also not as smooth as the kato motors and and hums sometimes before taking off (ie steps 1 - 4). Is it perhaps because of the capacitor?

 

The Digitrax DZ123 instruction book states that where an RFI filer is used, this should be removed. I gather that this is what the capacitor is used for but I am not sure.

 

 

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Martijn Meerts

The capacitor is common for certain motor types. The reason they're removed is because the same functionality is built into the decoder.

 

There are several decoder manufacturers who say you should only remove it if running characteristics of the loco are bad. Personally, I always remove them. Either way, it shouldn't cause the problems you're seeing.

 

Humming noise often points to a short circuit somewhere, or the motor stalling. It might get some sort of resistance which won't allow it to rotate at very low voltages. As far as I know, the 300 series hasn't had a manufacturing run at Tomix for quite a while, so chances are your train is a fairly old model. If you bought it new and unused, you might want to clean the entire drivetrain, make sure to remove any oil/grease from gears etc, and re-oil/grease them. If the train hasn't been run for a long time, the grease will have hardened up. If you bought it 2nd hand, make sure to clean the whole thing, and re-oil/re-grease as well.

 

Another problem could be the motor itself. Again, if it hasn't been running for a while, the collector brushes might have gone brittle, or there might have been some other lockup somewhere. If it's a used one, the collector brushes might have been used up. I haven't come across any Tomix, Kato or MicroAce motor that allowed for easy replacement of the collector brushes however, I think the idea is that in stead of replacing the brushes, the whole motor should be replaced.

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alpineaustralia

The train is brand new (ie it hasnt been used before). I cannot imagine where the short circuit would be. but every now and again when I run it, it stops by itself and shorts the system. It is sporadic.

The motor pick ups are on the top of the motor facing upwards.  I have isolated them from the copper rails that run the length of the train with a peice of rubber and cvering the motor is a thin plack rubberised sheet that came with trhe train. I'd be interested if you haver ever installed a decoder in a tomix shinkansen. How did you do it?

 

You other answer that the motor is stalling make sense. That fits in with the motor taking a little while to start moving and then taking off in a hurry.  The motor runs fast when it gets going it is just that I have to crank it up to step 5 before it starts to move.

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Martijn Meerts

I haven't installed a decoder in a Tomix shinkansen yet, but I do have the 0, 100 and 800 series by Tomix. I could have a look at those and see how they're different compared to for example the Kato 800 series in which I have installed a decoder.

 

As for the short circuit, it can be caused by many things. My most recent decoder install had a short circuit as well, but no amount of measuring said there was anything wrong. Motor was isolated like it should, and it was only when I put the shell on, that the short circuit occurred. Seems the shell was pressing down on the motor, which caused it to short, even though I really couldn't see which part could cause it, as everything was isolated. I eventually solved it by adding extra isolation between the decoder wires and the motor. Decoder installs don't always make sense ;)

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Bernard

aplineaustralia,

I just finished installing a Digitrax DZ125 in a Tomix E1 and I will post is under a new heading with step by step photos of how I did it. For me personally, it is not as easy as the Kato trains but nothing nearly as complex as what Martijn does (or as immaculate, you don't see one wire in his installs or the decoder in his installs)

 

Here is a photo of the train:

post-22-13569921827861_thumb.jpg

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CaptOblivious

I second Martjin's opinion on the capacitor: Remove it, and see if that's better, as far as shorts go? You can always put it back if you want, but you shouldn't need it with e decoder.

 

As for the seizing, you might also try some conductive oil on the motor brushes. Kato USA recommends "Conducta" lubricant, from http://www.aerocarlubricants.com/

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CaptOblivious

So, I guess removing the capacitor didn't do it for ya?

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