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11 Car track layout


kenjidm

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I haven't really even touched looking into all the different types of track layout programs that are mentioned on this forum yet.  But does anyone have a recommended simple track layout with identified numbers of pieces and part numbers for an 11 car train (yamanote line)

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Kenji,

 

An 11 car train is pretty long and a station to fit all of it would be about 1.5m.

 

first question is how much space do you have to work from. With longer trains you will need some room if you want them to have some straight areas to run and not be chasing it’s tail too much or stations only fitting a bit of the train. Is this just going to be a temp play layout for now or a permanent one. Best to play for a while with track ideas before starting anything more permanent. 

 

also want scenes and layout track plan elements do you want? Assume maybe an elevated station with heavy urban scene for a yamanote train or do you not care if the train fits the scenes as much (some care some don’t).

 

Kato or Tomix track?

 

kato has some track plans up to look and a good place to start.

 

https://www.katomodels.com/unitrackplan/index

 

jeff

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This layout was used by Kato at the 2015 Matsuya Ginza Railway Model show. It can accommodate 15 car trains but requires 3600mm x 1200 mm for the smaller version. (142 inches x 48 inches). Good if you have a full basement.

    
The actual exhibition plan is configured so that the 233 series 15-car train can fit in the station. These trains are he longest non-Shinkansen trains in the Tokyo region.

 

https://www.katomodels.com/unitrackplan/plan_N2_109

 

You can also build a layout using one of various track planning software packages.

Edited by bill937ca
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I’ve seen comments that people prefer to screw down the tracks rather than use nails.  For those that use screws, what size do you use for Tomix fine tracks

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I like screws for sectional track. Easy to install and remove. You have to drill out the small columns in the track. Sadly one of the best sources for these little screws passed away a couple of years back. These on ebay work decently. Flat heads need a little countersinking to sit flush

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-4-M1-7-Black-Oxide-Phillips-Cross-Countersunk-Flat-Head-Self-Tapping-Screws/302272578037?var=601114341557

 

machine screw types, they bump up a bit but no countersinking needed.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-2-M1-4-M1-7-M2-Phillips-Pan-Head-Self-Tapping-Screws-Washer-Collar-Screw/192689687812?hash=item2cdd334d04:m:mdoburZtRhqat5kZqcaXj0A

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/500pcs-M1-M2-Thread-Nickel-Plated-Phillips-Round-Head-Self-Tapping-Screws-Bolts/293182440478?hash=item444309041e:m:maBLO-goSRL2EyxJCme9Spw

 

before you start thinking of nailing track down you should play a lot with your Tomix sectional track with different setups. Sectional track does not need to be attached at all to run well. That’s the beauty of it, just clip together and run!

 

you can also glue it down with white (pva) glue and pop it up later with some water or caulking and scrape up with paddy knife.

 

jeff

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Thanks Jeff.  I have an idea for a track setup after all the advice.  You’re correct, I will play with it, sorry my son will play with it lol for some time to make sure we are happy with it.  As much as I really want to buy buildings and such gonna hold off till we find a layout we really like.  

 

Might find a fun tunnel though as he likes things that the train can go through.  Right now we are using cardboard box.

 

 

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Get some extruded polystyrene foam board at the home despot (they sell small 2’x2’ pieces of 1” thick) and whack up a tunnel. Hot glue gun and steak knife. You can use spackle to texture and form. Then paint and ground foam. Quick and fun tunnel. Poke some cheap ebay trees into it! Barry’s article is great for ideas for quick scenery for a temp layout. Really gets you thinking of what you want to do in the long run and makes it much more fun in the short run. Also great way to learn scenery techniques and experiment with them as different ones speak to different hands.

 

Also check out the downloadable paper craft structures. Easy to cut out and paste together for some quick buildings! Just the cost of printer ink!

 

 

cheers

 

jeff

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A general rule of thumb is that your target train size is approximately 1/3 of the length of the layout, whether you wish to have a full length station or not.  This means that for an 11-car train at nearly 1.5m, as Jeff states above, you need a layout close to 4.5m for it to look good.

 

Before looking at pinning or screwing Tomix or Kato track down, it's a good idea just to put the tracks together first and then play around with the plan until you find something that works for you. 

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5 minutes ago, VJM said:

A general rule of thumb is that your target train size is approximately 1/3 of the length of the layout, whether you wish to have a full length station or not.  This means that for an 11-car train at nearly 1.5m, as Jeff states above, you need a layout close to 4.5m for it to look good.

 

Seems about right, I have about 3m and 6-car trains fit quite nicely without giving the impression they're chasing their own tails.

 

Quote

Before looking at pinning or screwing Tomix or Kato track down, it's a good idea just to put the tracks together first and then play around with the plan until you find something that works for you. 

 

This. It does stay in place by itself quite nicely as well.

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Might be late to the party on this one. Here is the KATO Union Pacific excursion train which is pulled by the FEF-3 844 (loco is off getting DCC installed. If I recall it runs on the M1 track set. That space above the gas fireplace. is about 2.5 x 4’. 

8CBB4CEA-F919-438F-997A-FDC1F2FB8C2C.jpeg

Edited by biggulz
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HI all, not to discount the comment from cteno4 about the ebay screws but has anyone used Tomix 0190 screws?  It says truck screws but I am assuming these are for the tracks?  

 

Below is the track setup me and my kid are putting together.  

Track.JPG

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Tomix 0190 screws are for the carriage bogies to be attached to the train bodies; they are not track fasteners. 

 

I personally prefer a bit of PVA or a drop of superglue/cyanoacrylate for permanent positioning.

  • Like 1
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Hello,

 

I screwed 20m of track once ... about 10 years ago ... and regret it.  It took forever, with a plethora of problems:

  1. Screw sometimes split sleeper (Peco track), even though they were predrilled;
  2. MDF baseboard needed pre-drilling;
  3. Phillips head would sometimes burr, requiring careful removal with pliers.  This occurred if pre-drilling wasn't deep enough, or poorly manufactured screw, or pre-drilled hole was too narrow in diameter;
  4. Screws would crack sleeper if screwed down too far;
  5. Screws would foul rolling stock if not screwed down far enough;
  6. Screws dropped on the floor or between pieces of track;
  7. Most importantly ... screws took far too long to do ...

All of these problems are solved with a couple of drops of PVA as VJM suggests.  Then, when a turn-out fails the track is off with a couple of twists of the box-cutter ... and you don't have a bunch of screws to undo.  Time is precious.

 

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Martijn Meerts

I've used Marklin k-track screws for the T-Trak tests I did, which works great. It is a bit of work, but for something like T-Trak it's nice to screw the track down. Hooking up the modules and taking them apart often would stress the PVA method too much unless you're very careful.

 

For my big N-scale layout, I've been using temporary screws to hold track in place. The idea there is to add ballast, glue that down, and the track will be glued along with the ballast. Then remove the temporary screws and touch up with a little ballast. With track like Unitrack or Finetrack, you can glue it down, but I'm using flex track, so even if I did glue it down, I'd need to add screws to keep it in shape in curves and such.

 

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