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TRod's First Layout


TRod

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Just wasn't quite right so l tweaked it and got a folded figure 8 inside the outer loop.

I have more room for inclines on this one and with the outer loop raised as well it should be good.

I need to throw it into Xtrack before l start building as there seems to be a very small misalignment or my eyes are playing tricks in me, but that will be a few weeks as l need to buy a new computer first.

Not as much yard space as I'd like with. the left side track there but  it allows shunting while two trains are running the outside loops. No real station spot either, o h well idea compromise for running long trains, having two levels and as much yard space as possible.

Once it's all measured correct I'll be happy to start building.

Will use timber supports and 3mm MDF for the upper level and inclines.

https://youtu.be/uAwDnxpuQO8

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This planning stuff is not as easy as it could be, mainly due to me wanting everything and more in a smallish layout.

Time to step back, re-assess and get something started.

My last video layout, while do-able,  needs careful consideration to which tracks are "tunnelled", which are raised and or exposed but in a cutting. 

There would be some serious landscape modelling involved and a large amount of track hidden, kind of defeating the purpose of all that modelling. I may as well build an underground and concentrate on the landscape. 

So, back to the drawing board. I need more curves and some fancy cross overs of some sort but that'll have to wait until next year.

I'll disassemble later tonight and start over. I've used half of the 2nd level 3mm mdf to fix my darlings chest of draws anyway

Remember, sometimes less is more.

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TRod,

 

Planning the perfect layout, given the necessary constraints on space and budget is definitely not easy. I modified my previous suggested track plan to eliminate the double crossover track and the use of viaducts since you don't have them. Also included a little more separation so you could ramp up to the bridge a little easier.  Hope this helps enough that you don't have to wait until next year.

 

1952387782_720x2400b.thumb.jpg.8fa0aece5350f1928d0d688a983573cf.jpg

 

Here is a list of track required:

 

20000 (S248), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 248mm.    29
20010 (S186), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 186mm.    12
20020 (S124), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 124mm.    4
20040 (S62), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 62mm.    2
20048 (S50B-C), N Kato Unitrack, Buffer/Bumper Type C, 50.5mm.    3
20070 (S45), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 45.5mm.    1
20071 (S29), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 29mm.    1
20100 (R249-45), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 249mm, angle 45º    15
20110 (R282-45), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 282mm, angle 45º    9
20120 (R315-45), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 315mm, angle 45º    8
20160 (R481-15), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 481mm, angle 15º    1
20202 (EP718-15L), N Kato Unitrack, Left turnout 186mm. (remote)    3
20203 (EP718-15R), N Kato Unitrack, Right turnout 186mm. (remote)    2
20220 (EP481-15L), N Kato Unitrack, Left turnout 126mm. (remote)    1
20221 (EP481-15R), N Kato Unitrack, Right turnout 126mm. (remote)    1
20450 (S186T), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 186mm. (bridge) (red)    1
S33 (S33), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 33mm.    2

 

It occurs to me that you might want to submit a challenge to the forum members. Gives us a list of the track you currently have, any  limits on curve radius, the available space and see what we can come up with.

 

Roger

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That sounds like a fun challenge, I'll do that.

I have Xtrack back on a new laptop so l can get back to proper planning. The over and under l built on the table was way out of wack.

I'll get an exact list up but to start l have one loop of 315, 282, 249 and I think 216 but it might be 183 I'll have to check. Either way it's only good for the short loco's and cars. 

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R315-45 × 8

R282-45 × 8

R249-45 × 8

R216-45 × 8

R712-15 × 4

R315-15 × 4

R248-15 × 4

EP718-15R X 6

EP718-15L ×5

LOTS AND lots of standard straights down to 29mm.

 

As l only have 700mm width I'll have to run the outer R315 loop up at the back and the second loop will have to pass under it for some or all of the length.

Edited by TRod
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I'll be in the train shed until further notice.

The outside loop will probably be raised at the rear for necessity to fit the inner loop, will look good that way too, give the tracks some separation. Pretty much like the first layout l dreamed up haha.

I've named it the Nishitetsu Line.

 

edit. Now l need a bigger board. I miss-measured, It's 2040 long, not 2400 and 720 wide. That was a bit silly, l blame the hops infused water. I'm just so used to working with 2400 x 1200 l kind of stuffed up.

Capture.PNG

Edited by TRod
Stupid measuring mistake.
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TRod

 

Here is my best shot at a plan for a 720 x 2040 layout using your current list of track (except for the optional bridge).

 

challengeR3.thumb.jpg.1640fe6bd34c7a615879b7792ec184be.jpg

 

The green incline section on the left is 1580mm, so the grade is 3.2% with 282mm curves.

The purple incline section on the right is 1850mm, so the grade is 2.7% with 249mm curves.

 

Here is the list of materials:

20000 (S248), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 248mm.    16
20010 (S186), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 186mm.    9
20020 (S124), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 124mm.    6
20040 (S62), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 62mm.    3
20071 (S29), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 29mm.    6
20100 (R249-45), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 249mm, angle 45º    8
20110 (R282-45), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 282mm, angle 45º    8
20111 (R282-15), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 282mm, angle 15º    2
20120 (R315-45), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 315mm, angle 45º    8
20121 (R315-15), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 315mm, angle 15º    3
20150 (R718-15), N Kato Unitrack, Curve radius 718mm, angle 15º    4
20202 (EP718-15L), N Kato Unitrack, Left turnout 186mm. (remote)    3
20203 (EP718-15R), N Kato Unitrack, Right turnout 186mm. (remote)    6
20450 (S186T), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 186mm. (bridge) (red)    1
S33 (S33), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 33mm.    4
S38 (S38), N Kato Unitrack, Straight 38mm.    4

 

BTW: Bill made an excellent point. Unless you are an experienced modeller, you might want to start with a simple layout. There are no reverse loops, so a single train could be controlled with single transformer, but if you want multiple trains, you will need multiple transformers/block wiring or DCC.

 

My background is live steam on a garden railroad, so I'm a complete novice. Lot's of room for a large layout in the basement, but no skill set to make it happen yet. Currently running multiple trains, but on 2 double track loops and 4 transformers.I'm only buying DCC ready trains because that is the direction I want to go in order to simplify wiring and control.

 

Roger

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Thanks Roger, pretty good how we both came up with very similar layouts.

I have 3 controllers and more remote switches than turnouts, however that happened.

While I'm not an experienced modeller, l do have the tools and the patience and most importantly know my limitations.

I like your layout better than mine, I'll get some track layed and start enjoying the hobby as Bill said.

Cheers.

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Not much room for buildings and much landscaping, makes that job easier. I don't have any off the shelf buildings or anything, might have a look online for some freight sheds

I will start on scenery straight away, something to keep me off the couch, and post up in layout building when l have something.

 

 

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Hi Trod, 

 

There's quite a length of tracks running around that is great for a long run through the layout~ I bet it's gonna turn out very nice! 

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Thanks, need another two turnouts for the inside loop to cut out reversing.

I have a reasonable picture in my head of what it may look like in a year's time. Will move controllers off the board, put some small variation in heights for the tracks, get some buildings and so forth.

I'll just play for the time being and work on water proofing my crap (new) shed, it's been extremely wet and windy here and l have water on the layout. Eek!

 

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6 hours ago, TRod said:

I'll just play for the time being and work on water proofing my crap (new) shed, it's been extremely wet and windy here and l have water on the layout. Eek!

That explains a bit, when I saw the shed I thought it looked similar to my garden shed and wondered how you kept the elements out. It also might be a struggle with the temperature depending where you are located. Possible a second roof on wooden battens might isolate the heat off that roof.

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Yes mate and we'll have to meet up one weekend soon. I'm sure you could suggest some things for my layout build that l would never have thought of. (Like build in a dry place)

I'll extend an invite for you to visit my place and meet up. 

Cheers.

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Got some grass squares for $10 ea and some 1/144 aeroplanes. 

Wires can go under the grass instead of through the base which is so much easier.

 

All with a cozy wood fire going.

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Wow, it's been 3 yrs since l started my build thread and I'm no closer to a permanent layout.

Well, l finished my boat, got through covid while starting a new career as a train driver (l kind of do have a permanent layout l guess).

Now l gone and bought a turntable, l need a bigger layout haha, lucky l hadn't started. 

I have another section to put in the suburban platform to make it Section A,B and both end pieces, a whole other country station like the one at the back, two trestle bridges and a bucket load of track and turnouts.

Currently on the standard door of 2040 mm long, l might add another door and make it a corner L shape or at the minimum, extend it to 2900 long, the width of the room.

I am not building an epoch specific layout, nor a particular line area of Japan.

I like the architecture of Japanes trains, the way they look, in particular their "cruise" trains, of which l plan to buy many, many more.

I will be able to run 3 trains and use the yard for shunting all at the same time, when finished.

It won't be quick, but it doesn't  need to be.

1680766679381.jpg

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@TRod no worries it’s not a race! You’ve been quite busy in life. That’s the nice thing about the hobby where you can set it aside at times and come back to it later to enjoy. Sometimes good to do that. L sounds like it will give you some more space for scenery and such and mix up the track plan some.

 

enjoy!

 

jeff

 

ps pictures of the boat please!

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1916157055_img_1_1676969667132(1).thumb.jpg.9934010f47b3f57333da23b136ca8ec7.jpg15ft Skerry by Chesapeake Light Craft with a 62ft balanced lug rig.

Built from Okume marine ply from plans (not a kit). It started out as six sheets of ply. Sail kit by Sailrite, l sewed the six panels together, put all the patches, eyelets on and hems on.

I even assembled the trailer from flat pack and got it certified and registered.

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