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What did you order or the post deliver? (Electrical, Lighting, DCC, etc)


chadbag

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I saw this in a shop and thought about getting it. I went back a few days later and it was gone.....never to be seen.

Came in the mail today......No longer a missed opportunity. I really like this for some reason

 

image.thumb.png.0236ad3c8fa45245af17e22c5fa3e9a8.png

 

 

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I have the same loco. It says “Hustle Muscle” on the side. It’s one of my first n scale locos. It’s been dropped and crashed multiple times when the boy was younger. Still working thanks to a power bogie that I transplanted into it from a cheap non runner. One of the few US locos I’m keeping.

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I recently hit the Big 40! So as a part of my birthday present I bought a Digitrax Zephyr starter set. Also an EL13 and 2 x FL12's to install in one of my E231-500 sets.

 

I think I have stepped into a world of DCC I will never escape (and neither will my wallet)

 

Now to work out how to program the FL12's to 4 digit addresses.....

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2 hours ago, E231-500 said:

I recently hit the Big 40! So as a part of my birthday present I bought a Digitrax Zephyr starter set. Also an EL13 and 2 x FL12's to install in one of my E231-500 sets.

 

I think I have stepped into a world of DCC I will never escape (and neither will my wallet)

 

Now to work out how to program the FL12's to 4 digit addresses.....

 

I am not on a Zephyr, but using my programmer I just try it multiple times.  It eventually takes.  

 

I think if you do both at the same time you might have a slightly better chance? I think the issue is you need a certain amount of current and without the motor you don't easily get there.  Doing two at once puts "more on the track" to generate current.   This is speculation.

 

I've also been relatively successful on doing the EM13 and the FL12s all at the same time.

 

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I tend to do all 3 at once and it usually works.  But I know singles for fl12s tend to fail writing.  But I use JMRI with my Zephyr so not sure how to program from the Zephyr directly. 

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2 hours ago, inobu said:

Well, just delivered and already apart......motor isolated......

Need to make a light board and the right decoder.

 

image.thumb.png.4d79e59e06db9bd45ecc6f9f30901ea5.png

 

I don't think anyone here has described this before. Any chance you could make a thread and document the process? 

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1 hour ago, gavino200 said:

 

I don't think anyone here has described this before. Any chance you could make a thread and document the process? 

That's what I came back to do. 95% done, just need to make sure its the best way before finalize.....

 

Trying to hide the decoder and allow for interior lights.

 

Inobu

Edited by inobu
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A week or three ago I ordered the Zimo MX605N -- their version for EM13 compatibles.  It works great in my ET425 I also just got.  I also got 4 ESU LokPiloy 5 mikro -- 2 with 6 pins and 2 wired.  Am trying to convert one to the JNS EM13 board (which is made for DH& DH05 decoders) but am only part way through that project.  I also got a Zimo MX616N nano decoder to try out.  It looks like a viable decoder for really small installs -- similar to PD05A.

 

Today I got a shipment from DM-Toys of 20 of their new exclusive PD10M decoders (made by D&H).  They are relatively inexpensive (20 euro when bought in 10 packs 22 euro otherwise) and come in 6 pin variety and with wires (wires are not yet available).  It appears to be a DH10 without SUSI and only 2 function ports.  Claims to have a capacitor on it for small power glitches.  Size is about DH05 size and is one sided so I think they will easily work on the JNS EM13 boards.  I'll let you know once I try one.

 

I posted this pic (due to lok) in the Worldwide "what did you get" thread but here it is again due to the decoders

 

IMG_5486.thumb.jpeg.baed9becbbb15a1353f380e14a510635.jpeg

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