DCC for a Tomix EF66?

[GDorsett]

Having done a successful conversion of a Kato EF510 (horay for Digitrax cards!), I'd like to convert my first (and favourite) locomotive, Tomix 9178, an EF66 in Blue Train/Express livery. Has anyone gotten into and converted one? Is there a card swap or plug/play card available?

Edited September 20, 2018 by GDorsett

[chadbag]

I have not looked inside a Tomix EF66.  But I did look inside a few other Tomix locomotives, and they will all be a hard wired decoder -- old school style 🙂

 

I'll eventually get around to doing my various Tomix locomotives.  I have bought mostly KATO for the reason that they are easier to do DCC but have not shied away fro the Tomix ones (EF210, EF65, DF50).

 

I also have a bunch of the DE10 and DD51 from Tomix, but I suspect that is another can o' worms.

[kvp]

1 hour ago, chadbag said:

I also have a bunch of the DE10 and DD51 from Tomix, but I suspect that is another can o' worms.

Those have circuit boards inside from pickups to motor contacts, so pretty easy to wire up. If you can find the space for the decoder.

[GDorsett]

I have an extra solder in decoder in my parts/tools box, but I don't think it'll fit under the body. Does either of you know if the Tomix locos have their circuits routed through the chassis blocks like old Bachmann locos? Or are they completely separate circuits? If they're isolated, it'll make a solder in job a whole lot easier.

[gavino200]

2 hours ago, GDorsett said:

I have an extra solder in decoder in my parts/tools box, but I don't think it'll fit under the body. Does either of you know if the Tomix locos have their circuits routed through the chassis blocks like old Bachmann locos? Or are they completely separate circuits? If they're isolated, it'll make a solder in job a whole lot easier.

 

I'm pretty sure they vary. Pop the shell off and post some pics. It should be possible to work it out from the images.

[GDorsett]

And that's why I ask about of they're wired through the chassis weights. Popping off the body reveals a bunch of metal weight and one piece of tape. Will take a picture when I get home from work.

[GDorsett]

I am now 100% certain that the circuit includes the chassis weights.

 

If I take off the plastic covers, they reveal the LED boards for the headlights...which are routed through the chassis. I'll take it apart further tomorrow, but this is as far as it's going to get tonight.

 

 

I'm not even sure my extra solder-in decoder will fit into this engine...

Edited September 20, 2018 by GDorsett

[gavino200]

16 minutes ago, GDorsett said:

I am now 100% certain that the circuit includes the chassis weights.

 

 

If I take off the plastic covers, they reveal the LED boards for the headlights...which are routed through the chassis. I'll take it apart further tomorrow, but this is as far as it's going to get tonight.

 

 

 

I'm not even sure my extra solder-in decoder will fit into this engine...

 

I think it's almost certainly doable. What are the dimensions of your decoder? It it's too big, there are some very small decoders out there. Check out D&H or ESU. @chadbag will advise you further on those. He's the D&H meister.

 

I'd advise using the stock light board as a electrical pick up from the chassis. Just break the connections between the pickup tabs and the LED. Solder the decoder's black and red pickup wires to the pads on the light board and put it back in place. you can wire directly to the LED from the decoder.

 

You can use the lightboard cavity at the other end to place your decoder. Just use a single free standing LED instead of the lightboard LED.

 

You need to open up the chassis and isolate the motor. ie place "kapton" tape on it to stop the motor from making electrical contact with it. Then connect the decoder's grey and orange wires to the motor contacts to power the motor.

 

Take the loco apart slowly and take pictures as you go. Make sure you put all the small parts in a safe place. If you hit a road block, stop, think about it, and post looking for advice. Do not rush. 

Edited September 20, 2018 by gavino200

[GDorsett]

Should have seen me tearing apart an old AHM Mother Hubbard Camel Back steamer. Thought I had everything isolated and wired up...and then found contacts where I didn't know there were and it by passed the decoder. Had to strip and rewire it again. Oops.

Not too worried about the isolation and actually wiring it, I think at this point it comes down to how it's all mounted in.

The decoder size is pretty small. I'd say a little over a centimetre wide and about two centimetres long. The issue comes in height, as it's rather thick.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have some better ambition with rest...

[kvp]

This is a classic split frame design and the usual way is to wire up (by soldering) and isolate the headlights and the motor contacts (usually with kapton tape). If the decoder doesn't fit, the best way is usually to mill (or file) out part of the weights to make a decoder pocket (if it's added in the factory). For track pickups from the frame to the decoder small and thin pieces of plain circuit board or short brass pickup strips could be used as contact pads. Or just isolate and use some of the pads on the light boards.

[gavino200]

By the way, if the installation seems very difficult and frustrating. Don't worry. That's normal. Keep calm and carry on.

 

Good luck!

[GDorsett]

This suddenly seems do-able

Mainly because the motour has a set of contacts on it.

[GDorsett]

 

 

It Should fit, but barely. Will probably have to break out the Dremel.

[Kiha66]

I love using DZ123 decoders, they are so handy.  A trick to get more space is to cut off the red plastic wrapping on the decoder.  Then insulate the space or decoder using kapton tape, which Is much smaller.

[chadbag]

As you do this, please document it with photos and/or video and post a link in the DCC subforum of the forum.

[GDorsett]

Oo, good idea. Will do.

[Densha]

I already moved this topic into the DCC section just now. 😉

[GDorsett]

Ooooo, magic.