Jump to content
Facebook & Twitter login method support stopped Read more... ×
Bubule

Climb to Kurama ( eizan Mini layout)

Recommended Posts

Kiha66

Amazing work as usual, thanks so much for the tutorial too!  I can't wait to try it out.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Bubule
Posted (edited)

Hello  and thanks a lot for the comments !

 

I have painted the track and started to add some ballast : Notice the counter-rail on the inner rail of the curves.

 

773849717_00TEST2.thumb.jpg.9f28cd89992f5ac3cbcf6260edcb61a8.jpg

 

403345634_00TEST3.thumb.jpg.245131a83076970ce9314b09494e449b.jpg

 

To be continued ...

 

 

 

1221809887_00TEST4.thumb.jpg.ef40c0ec51341d6d2d6f4ee3d79e9ba6.jpg

Edited by Bubule
  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
gavino200

That looks fantastic. The counter rail is an amazing detail. I also love the little strip of vegetation between the tracks. Just the right amount. Not overdone.

 

Could you sometime describe your technique for laying the grass/vegetation?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Bubule

Thanks Gavin.

 

I will do something on the vegetation later, this one is just an undercover to fix a bit of soil and to make the photo. The corner will be reworked later when applying the higther bushes and trees.

 

So tomorow ... the big ballasting challenge of the layout have been done : The cisor crossing ! I have spent 5 hours to mask, paint and ballast it.

 

First part apply som Tamiya masking tapes on the pivots and the ends of the blades (that provides electric power to blades). It is much important to not apply paint there if you wanted that your turnouts still works well after painting :

 

74402754_01masking.thumb.jpg.4e9b25f9c895b1e5786e2aafb1535c29.jpg

 

After that i aplly a cote of Tamiya XF 64 red brown on the crossing, a ligth dry brush of flat white to higthlight the relief of wood ties and last a cote of P.U. flat varnish :

 

272825796_01Paint.thumb.jpg.697f41517744c24be853f3af27d8c5ac.jpg

 

724658132_01Painted.thumb.jpg.3ce0f9422717b395e7630836db32bf52.jpg

 

 

The next step takes me 3 hours and a half : Applying ballast. Apply is dry without any glue. And shape it as you want by using very soft paint brushes and a steel point to remove all grains of ballast from the upper side of the ties. Be carefull and calm. Soft respiration. Be patient and precise. And for the cisor be carefull to do not have any contact between ballast and moving parts of the turnout. Lower the ballast level between ties on blades travels :

 

625977375_01Balast.thumb.jpg.e8fededc8a23bb51f308d3bed405d32a.jpg

 

64207398_01Balast2.thumb.jpg.0423b8b6bcd6f2b08f82b4b70ba9837e.jpg

 

When all the ballast is OK and feat your hopes, it's  time to wet it, with a spay filled with water and a bit of dishwashing liquid (help to wet). Spay like a bristish rain : Very thin spay like drizzle.

You may have some grains that move a little bit on the upper of tie . Replace it on theyre right place between the tracks :

 

843125600_01spraywater.thumb.jpg.09a41768a50549f1fc19d5dac26cd783.jpg

 

After all ballast is very wet, apply 50% water / 50% white wood glue magic mix (shake, shake shake it baby !). Add also a very little bit of dishwashing liquid to the mixture. I use a little bottle of used white glue to apply it. Put lots of glue, but apply it carefully very close to the ballast to care the shaping. Dont fears about the white appearence, because glue came transparent when drying. Again if some grains move, replace it, reshape the ballast a little bit if it's needed :

 

634059794_01Glue.thumb.jpg.f43c2566a32c2e972c057122473a462e.jpg

 

Allow 24 hours to dry, Never touch ballast before total drying. Place blades of the crossing in medium position to prevent it glues on a side. For the first 3 hours of drying move the blades every 30 min, you will be sure that they will not stick in place. When it dry, remove the paint and glue on the upper side of the rails ( i use the roco cleaning gum). And vacum the track to remove unglued gains and dust. Here it the result :

 

1725356131_01crossing.thumb.jpg.8c1daee93a7396c8e321eff123aa84d3.jpg

 

 

To be continued, Best regards

 

Jef

 

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 3

Share this post


Link to post
gavino200
7 hours ago, Bubule said:

 

After all ballast is very wet, apply 50% water / 50% white wood glue magic mix (shake, shake shake it baby !). Add also a very little bit of dishwashing liquid to the mixture. I use a little bottle of used white glue to apply it. Put lots of glue, but apply it carefully very close to the ballast to care the shaping. Dont fears about the white appearence, because glue came transparent when drying. Again if some grains move, replace it, reshape the ballast a little bit if it's needed :

 

634059794_01Glue.thumb.jpg.f43c2566a32c2e972c057122473a462e.jpg

 

 

 

 

In this step are you just gently squeezing the bottle and applying the glue, drop by drop, until every part has had a good soaking? Like glue-bottle carpet bombing if you will?

Share this post


Link to post
Bubule
2 hours ago, gavino200 said:

 

In this step are you just gently squeezing the bottle and applying the glue, drop by drop, until every part has had a good soaking? Like glue-bottle carpet bombing if you will?

 

Exactly ! You have perfectly summerized the thing ! Love the carpet bombing expression. 😋

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×