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maihama eki

Kato T-Trak Module Kits

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cteno4

Squid,

 

i think this foam version looks to be aimed at the us market as well as it’s on the katousa website and woodland scenics partnership.

 

I agree its the biggest issue with ttrak is making your own modules is not easy without a shop. The hard thing in trying to convince new Modelers to get going with Ttrak would be a $50 investment on the first module. I’ve talked to a lot of potential new Modelers at shows to try to convince them to just try something to get going and try it and price of modules usually surfaces. I would have hoped with the inexpensive foam and Masonite design they could have gotten the price down some, but woodland scenics look to have produced it so they want a good profit and their stuff is never inexpensive.

 

jeff

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RogerMc

Jeff,

 

I rec'd some samples of Ultraboard recently and really like the stuff. I've even managed to find a local source.

 

They [United Industries] have a product line which includes edge banding, attractive looking.

 

There's a part of me that would like to 'go rebel' and build modules using only an Ultraboard base like you typically see with dioramas. I'd really like to eliminate the 70mm front face because as you have mentioned, it is very distracting. It's an eye stopper to me.

 

It's reasonably priced too.

 

Of course if I eliminate the front face I am no longer a good citizen and can't play with others.

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cteno4

Roger,

 

ive done module heights from 1” to 2.75”. Did a bunch for club members at 2” as a compromise as it was the widest you can get wood veneer tape for the front face. Just going down to 2” really helps as well as going to natural wood finish. 1” ones I set on top of some girders I made that are about 1.5” tall and 4’ Long so I can plop 4 modules on the an just level them all at once and raise the modules easily up to 3.5-4”running height. The girders indent about 1” or so so the modules float nicely. This works a lot better than long bolts. 

 

In playing wit module fronts over the years 1-1.5” tall feels just about right to give a bit of depth but not overwhelm.

 

in japan the 2.75” never took off for the 25mm spaced modules and many were around 1” tall. With the new 33mm Ttrak push in japan that may change. The Kato japan kits are 60mm tall at the ends and like 52mm in the center,

 

you can run with others, Ttrak only really requires that you can raise the module up to get tracks to match. It’s still pretty loose on making the 2.75” front a standard that has to be. Some clubs may do it. You could always just make boxes or girders your flat modules could sit on for group setups that want you to have a more standard face.

 

ultraboard/expanded styrene board is great stuff. I’m hopefully picking up some more next week on a trek to the big plastic shop next week with a friend.

 

you can also just hot glue wood veneer tape to it as the hot glue binds well to the foam core and the heat sensitive glue on the veneer.

 

it cuts really well with a plastics blade (3 tooth shapes) on a table saw. Only down side is the sawdust from it can be pretty irritating as they are sort of sharp and they get very statically charged with the rotating blade, so good dust handling is a must!

 

cheers

 

Jeff

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tossedman
Posted (edited)

 Lots of ideas out there but I think these are still some of the easiest modules to build. A cheap circular saw and a speed square and you’re in business. Add a bit of glue and some nails and Robert’s your father’s brother.

 

http://ttrak.wikidot.com/1x3s

 

Cheers eh,

 

Todd

 

ttrak4.jpg

Edited by tossedman

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socalttrak

Todd,

 

1 x 3 are fine, they just make the module a bit heavier. I use 1/4" ply on the top and the sides are 1/4" x 2.5" poplar. You can get 4 foot lengths at Lowes or Homey Depot. I use 2" x 2" pine blocks, drilled out for the adjusting bolts in the corners.  I can make a single for about $5 plus the track.

 

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socalttrak

Here is the finished product
 

i-9g5mLhP-XL.jpg

i-wSs8MgD-XL.jpg

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