Khaul Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) Mmm, more enthusiastic weathering today. The DE10 is getting ju-ust a little bit apocalyptic. Initially I just wanted to make those grilles dirtier so it would look more like that: Then I noticed the bogies needed a bit of rust as well. This is the look I was aiming for. B&W hides almost anything, but anyway, I'll clean it a little bit here and there. Edited June 24, 2018 by Khaul 7 Link to comment
Das Steinkopf Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 That’s pretty tame for weathering, when I was looking around for inspiration for my DE10-1500 in original JRF livery I found this one, I was going to do it but on further research found out that this unit had been scrapped. http://blogimg.goo.ne.jp/user_image/7b/0b/d311ddd42e6a0bfdcfee267fe4b99e89.jpg I ended up finding a unit that was still around and in a somewhat better condition. 11 Link to comment
Khaul Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Thanks Das Stainkopf. Sometimes looking at my weathering I think to myself "does that look weathered or just an old dirty model?". 3 Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Wow these weathering certainly makes the model looks even more like the real thing! Well, if I improve something that has been made bad by myself, can I consider that as improving my rolling stock? I didn't do this intentionally to make it look like snow, no not me... Gross... It looks really bad under lighting It seems to be the effects of having WAY TOO much glue... I tried using glue to stick the light tube to the body and probably used too much... the drying of the glue stained the interior of the windows, and even the body and chassis!! 😭 Really looks like snow effects... And now to get to work... I wiped out the stains, sometimes even scrapping it off, and luckily I was able to get most of it out... Now we know never to use too much glue! 1 1 Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 And we illuminated more trains! The Yufuin no Mori Kiha71 is amazingly made by Tomix... Far better than the MA one which I had... even the underchassis details were all carefully represented! Isnt the 313-8000 Central Liner just lovely? And this seems to be one of the closest, if not the closest, coupling I have ever seen! I mean, the diaphragms are basically touching each other like the real thing! No problems with going around curves too! 4 Link to comment
Das Steinkopf Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 3 hours ago, JR 500系 said: Wow these weathering certainly makes the model looks even more like the real thing! Well, if I improve something that has been made bad by myself, can I consider that as improving my rolling stock? I didn't do this intentionally to make it look like snow, no not me... Gross... It looks really bad under lighting It seems to be the effects of having WAY TOO much glue... I tried using glue to stick the light tube to the body and probably used too much... the drying of the glue stained the interior of the windows, and even the body and chassis!! 😭 Really looks like snow effects... And now to get to work... I wiped out the stains, sometimes even scrapping it off, and luckily I was able to get most of it out... Now we know never to use too much glue! That's why I don't use superglue on models that have glazing, the effect of the fumes is absolutely hideous, nail polish remover is good for cleaning it up with a gentle rubbing motion using cloth and then use Tamiya Polishing Compounds to get the sheen back into it, pro tip next time you use superglue take all of the glazing out and give it a day or two to vent properly. 1 Link to comment
katoftw Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Why do you need super glue. Shouldn't rhe interior lighting clip into place? Link to comment
Das Steinkopf Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 12 hours ago, Khaul said: Thanks Das Stainkopf. Sometimes looking at my weathering I think to myself "does that look weathered or just an old dirty model?". I like what you have done with your weathering there Pablo, the bogies and fuel tanks look good with the rust look that you have got going on there, the grilles are always fun to do trying get that right amount of black at the back of the mesh, I generally do a few coats of watered down Tamiya Black with a smidgen of Hull Red. I gently wipe a cloth to take the paint off the mesh and when its dry I rub it again with a cloth to try and remove as much of the paint on the grilles so that the colour of the mesh stands out against the dark background. 1 1 Link to comment
Khaul Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 I find Tamiya Black a bit too bright, but well, I've been dry brushing it and the paint was not diluted. Also, my camera is in some sort of vivid colour setting. Anyway, I see one can get down the rabbit hole of weathering and never come out. 1 Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 4 hours ago, Das Steinkopf said: That's why I don't use superglue on models that have glazing, the effect of the fumes is absolutely hideous, nail polish remover is good for cleaning it up with a gentle rubbing motion using cloth and then use Tamiya Polishing Compounds to get the sheen back into it, pro tip next time you use superglue take all of the glazing out and give it a day or two to vent properly. Great advice! Thanks for sharing! I am happy at least I am able to remove most of those fumed glazing on the glass... (Then again, the fumed glazing does really make it look like a frosted glass good for cold weathering? 🙂 I will try as much as possible not to sue so much super glue next time... lesson learnt the hard way 3 hours ago, katoftw said: Why do you need super glue. Shouldn't rhe interior lighting clip into place? 2 major points here as to this: It's because GreenMax models are not so forgiving as Tomix ones, that have a nice groove to sit in the light tube and a support pillar with groves on the other end so the light tube stays on the roof and in place. GreenMax has only holes on the board and clips on the roof and no support stands on the other end, so if the light tube doesn't clip onto the roof, it will bend down like shown in the picture... Which brings us to point number 2, the light tube is not exactly Tomix or MicroAce, it's a third party light tube, and it's pretty thick, hence the clips wouldn't hold. Anyway, I've changed out the light tubes on the Kiha-75 to fit into the 313-8000, which is a Tomix model and hence it stays firmly on the roof without the need of clips. Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 8 hours ago, JR 500系 said: It seems to be the effects of having WAY TOO much glue... I tried using glue to stick the light tube to the body and probably used too much... the drying of the glue stained the interior of the windows, and even the body and chassis!! 😭 Not just too much glue, but even a small amount of glue can do this if the fumes are trapped inside. When I have to glue on a model I remove all the windows (usually the cab ones are fine to stay) and leave the shell off for at least a few hours to make sure the glue has totally dried and the fumes are gone before reassembly. Even normal hobby glue will do this as the fumes still cause the chemical reaction that starts to melt the plastic surface. Better safe than sorry! Link to comment
cteno4 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 That’s why they use cyanoacrylate to fix and raise fingerprints, it fumes so well! Why also good to not whiff it! Tiny computer fan on your work bench blowing away from your work area is fantastic to evacuate all the fumes from you and your work. CA fumes tend to attach to different things differently. They like the oils in fingerprints! For windows like this there are some plastic glazing glues which don’t affect clear acrylics and styrenes. Or just good old pva white glue, as it does not give a permanent fusion and you can pop it off later if needed. Scenic cement also works well and is a little flexible as well. cheers jeff Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 On 6/25/2018 at 10:22 PM, Kiha66 said: Not just too much glue, but even a small amount of glue can do this if the fumes are trapped inside. When I have to glue on a model I remove all the windows (usually the cab ones are fine to stay) and leave the shell off for at least a few hours to make sure the glue has totally dried and the fumes are gone before reassembly. Even normal hobby glue will do this as the fumes still cause the chemical reaction that starts to melt the plastic surface. Better safe than sorry! On 6/26/2018 at 2:32 AM, cteno4 said: That’s why they use cyanoacrylate to fix and raise fingerprints, it fumes so well! Why also good to not whiff it! Tiny computer fan on your work bench blowing away from your work area is fantastic to evacuate all the fumes from you and your work. CA fumes tend to attach to different things differently. They like the oils in fingerprints! For windows like this there are some plastic glazing glues which don’t affect clear acrylics and styrenes. Or just good old pva white glue, as it does not give a permanent fusion and you can pop it off later if needed. Scenic cement also works well and is a little flexible as well. cheers jeff Great advices, thanks guys! I'll keep those in mind! More work to be done on the 783 series HTB set.... (I seem to like this set a lot, I dunno why..) Fixing up all the lights in it finally... TN couplers rock! Cab cars with TN couplers... Midori set Fully TN coupled... Feels great, receiving this set as a Junk set, repairing it, cleaning it, cannibalising another set for parts, TN couplers, interior lights and finally a finished sweet looking 783 series! Cant wait to run this! Also worked on the 211 series I just received... The original couplers don't look so nice... The couple together pretty loosely too... Swap them out using the Kato couplers... Much better now in terms of coupling tightness and looks! 3 Link to comment
Khaul Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 (edited) I have followed advise from Das Steinkopf (thanks!) and wiped the black paint from the mesh on my DE10. The black nicely stays at the back of the grille. I think it worked quite well. The DE10 is my very first loco. This is how it looked out of the box. Weathering, first attempt. Weathering, second go. And that's how it looks today. That's the grille in the opposite side, but they both look pretty much the same. I changed the setting in the camera so colour is now "Standard" rather than "Vivid". Detail Edited July 3, 2018 by Khaul 6 1 Link to comment
Welshbloke Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 I use Deluxe Materials Glue 'n Glaze for windows, it's also good for train headboard disks and detailing parts which won't stay on. I'm 99% certain that it's actually a very pure form of PVA glue as it behaves in exactly the same fashion but dries clear. Link to comment
kvp Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 29 minutes ago, Welshbloke said: I use Deluxe Materials Glue 'n Glaze for windows, it's also good for train headboard disks and detailing parts which won't stay on. I'm 99% certain that it's actually a very pure form of PVA glue as it behaves in exactly the same fashion but dries clear. Since it's waterproof once dry, it might be just a thick unpigmented acrylic paint, which is the clear acrylic resin itself. Link to comment
Ultratram Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 (edited) On 6/27/2018 at 8:39 AM, JR 500系 said: Great advices, thanks guys! I'll keep those in mind! More work to be done on the 783 series HTB set.... (I seem to like this set a lot, I dunno why..) Fixing up all the lights in it finally... TN couplers rock! Cab cars with TN couplers... Midori set Fully TN coupled... Feels great, receiving this set as a Junk set, repairing it, cleaning it, cannibalising another set for parts, TN couplers, interior lights and finally a finished sweet looking 783 series! Cant wait to run this! Also worked on the 211 series I just received... The original couplers don't look so nice... The couple together pretty loosely too... Swap them out using the Kato couplers... Much better now in terms of coupling tightness and looks! I got those tight lock bogie couplers. Put them on my kato 113 series last week. My older kato 205 yamanote has the couplers like your 211. I Still need to change those out. Edited July 20, 2018 by Densha Removed photos from quote. Link to comment
Welshbloke Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Doing something with my handful of Tomix sleeping cars. Added TN couplers today: This should be the two SuHaNeFu 15s for the "Fuji" behind an EF81-300, unfortunately the OHaNes to go between them have disappeared completely from the market. I have just ordered a new OHaNe 25-100 for my similarly short Asakaze set, will see if the new models match the 92332 basic set before ordering more. I know the interiors have been upgraded compared to the old 8509/8510 cars the basic set is intended to go with but not sure if anything else has changed. 3 Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 More rooftop detailing, this time with my 10 series passenger cars. 3 Link to comment
gavino200 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 11 minutes ago, Kiha66 said: More rooftop detailing, this time with my 10 series passenger cars. Nice. Did you paint them? Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 2 minutes ago, gavino200 said: Nice. Did you paint them? Thanks! Yes all the molded in details were painted with tamiya XF-20 medium grey. Just a little touch but it makes them look much better! Link to comment
gavino200 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) 26 minutes ago, Kiha66 said: Thanks! Yes all the molded in details were painted with tamiya XF-20 medium grey. Just a little touch but it makes them look much better! It looks great. Airbrush or bristles? Edited July 28, 2018 by gavino200 Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 1 minute ago, gavino200 said: It looks great. There are some little toothpicks in the picture. Is that what you used to hold the piece while you sprayed them? How did you fix them? Rubber cement, blue tac? Actually the many of the details were molded with the roof as a single piece, so I had to hand brush them. The toothpicks were for scraping away any mistakes where I let paint drip onto the rest of the roof. In this case I felt secure enough that I left the cars assembled and just held them in a clean hand while I held the paint bush in the other. I have attempted masking and then airbrushing the details in the past. While it does leave a better finish, masking well is nearly impossible with the slight curve in many of the vents so painting by hand lets me control what gets painted much better. Link to comment
gavino200 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Kiha66 said: held them in a clean hand while I held the paint bush in the other Ah, yes! The hand must be completely clean. I'm learning that the hard way 😞 1 Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 I've certainly made that mistake before! Always a bummer when that happens. 2 Link to comment
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