Seeking advise on my track preparation/maintainance

[gavino200]

I've recently rebuilt my layout. Myself and my son are more into the hobby than before. We want to really do it right. We really want a track layout with fewer derailments and good function.

 

Here's what we're doing before we fix the track in place a bit.

 

1. All track is cleaned (Isopropyl and cloth).

2. Inclines are as low as we can make them with Kato piers.

3. I'm going to gently file the sharp edges of the unitrack.

4. Wires will be drilled through the board to keep the track flat. 

5. All loco wheels thoroughly cleaned. 

 

Anything else I should do?

 

Also, how often do you guys clean your track? I know it depends on how much you use it, and how clean the environment is. But approximately how long do you guys go between cleaning? One year? Six months? Less? I want to set up a cleaning schedule and put it on my calendar so I don't forget about it.

 

Also, previously I used a hot glue gun to fix the unitrack to the board. It worked well and didn't damage the Unitrack. But my son is eight now and is taking ever more ownership of the project. I took the lead with this layout, though we made the decisions together. I fully expect him to want to completely remodel the layout at some time. I'd bet he'll want to do it within a year. So I don't want to hot glue it down. I was thinking of using double sided tape to hold down the track. Anyone have any experience with this? Good idea? Bad idea? Suggestions?

 

[cteno4]

Track cleaning can be very variable with how much dust and schmutz is in the room, how much oil and grease is thrown from your trains, the wheels used, etc. some rarely clean others have to go at it a lot.

 

Usually you know there is an issue when the head/tail lights start flickering and/or the engine stutters, but I also use the finger test. Wipe your finger along the track and if you see marked black lines go at it before it gets to the engines having issues!

 

Same goes with wheels, I try to glance at wheels when I put cars and engines on and off the tracks and if I see gunk on them I clean them then!

 

Track cleaning cars can be a way to just do some maintenance on a regular schedule w,o a lot of effort. I sue wine with these. Put isopropanol in the track cleaner car of choice, pour a glass of wine then run the cleaning train around while you drink the glass of wine. Very civilized way to clean track!

 

I like screwing the track down with mini k screws. Folks use caulking, white glue, hot glue, etc, but not heard anyone using double stick tape. May work, but you will need to paint the wood base first as double stick tapes and even transfer adhesive does not like wood grain much.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[Rod.H]

I'm using double sided carpet tape to fasten down unitrack to XPS foamboard, so far it's holding well but I suspect it'd do a better job if I used longer pieces. I've used it before to attach WS track underlay to the same base material and found that it held it very securely. Though with some careful handling, I could relocate/reuse the foam & tape.  

[kvp]

For gluing, i use water based white glue. Water soluble ones make the track removable by gently soaking the sides, while water resistant ones are more permanent and allows you to use water based white glue later for the scenery. It works on wood, cork, foamboard and to some extent even on styrene.

 

For track cleaning: Every time before running anything. Not always with alcohol, just mechanical dust and debris removal. This prevents any dust burning onto the rails and then messing up the wheels. If one of your trains leaves oil or any dirt on the track, then clean it immediately, before running anything else on it. This way, both the tracks and the wheels remain clean. No schedule is needed, just clean before every running session, at most once a day.

[medusa]

On my tracks (temporary layout) not Schmutz (funny to see a german leanword here :)) is the main problem but oxidation from storage.

Setting up after long pause means usually, all locos or motor cars have to run for several minutes at several speeds each. After that, the tracks are usually free of any oxide layers. *har har har*

Edited December 27, 2016 by medusa

[kvp]

The Tomix track cleaning car has a disk for removing oxidation. Just push it before a strong and heavy locomotive. (the ed75 and similar bo-bo locomotives are good for this)

[gavino200]

I like screwing the track down with mini k screws. Folks use caulking, white glue, hot glue, etc, but not heard anyone using double stick tape. May work, but you will need to paint the wood base first as double stick tapes and even transfer adhesive does not like wood grain much.

 

Thanks. Yes, the base is foamboard painted with latex paint.

[gavino200]

The Tomix track cleaning car has a disk for removing oxidation. Just push it before a strong and heavy locomotive. (the ed75 and similar bo-bo locomotives are good for this)

I'm going to order a track cleaning car. Thanks.

[cteno4]

There is the age old debate that using abrasives on the rail heads creates micro scratches in the surface that nucleates the accumulation of gunk. Never seen it really tested but I did see pictures a long time ago of a piece of track new and after hitting it hard with an abrasive eraser and it did have abunch ot tiny scratches in the rail head. So I've just stayed away from abrasives.

 

Some drag hunks of Masonite under weighted cars as a sort of semi abrasive pickup, but they can be cranky with sectional track.

 

Oxidation usually is not an issue with most good nickel silver rail, but simple metal cleaners could also get that and very easy to do while loose.

 

Tomix car I find great for using the buffer after the centerline roller car and it's vacuum is also great. The centerline roller car with handi wipe wraps and isopropanol work great to clean off gunk. One club member has a very dirty basement with rain of schmutz fro the floorboards above and he uses orange oil to great effect with the centerline on really cruddy rails at times. I've worried the orange oil might eat at traction tires but he's never had a problem. His loops are long enough (large G shaped layout so very long runs) that it's all probably evaporated by the next lap.

 

Center lines are expensive but I've picked them up for $30 or less on ebay if you wait.

 

http://www.centerline-products.com

 

Anyhow you will find a myriad of opinions on track cleaning! Probably one of the most hotly debated issues out there! Just listen to points and then figure out what works best for you, there is no one perfect answer!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[gavino200]

There is the age old debate that using abrasives on the rail heads creates micro scratches in the surface that nucleates the accumulation of gunk. Never seen it really tested but I did see pictures a long time ago of a piece of track new and after hitting it hard with an abrasive eraser and it did have abunch ot tiny scratches in the rail head. So I've just stayed away from abrasives.

 

Some drag hunks of Masonite under weighted cars as a sort of semi abrasive pickup, but they can be cranky with sectional track.

 

Oxidation usually is not an issue with most good nickel silver rail, but simple metal cleaners could also get that and very easy to do while loose.

 

Tomix car I find great for using the buffer after the centerline roller car and it's vacuum is also great. The centerline roller car with handi wipe wraps and isopropanol work great to clean off gunk. One club member has a very dirty basement with rain of schmutz fro the floorboards above and he uses orange oil to great effect with the centerline on really cruddy rails at times. I've worried the orange oil might eat at traction tires but he's never had a problem. His loops are long enough (large G shaped layout so very long runs) that it's all probably evaporated by the next lap.

 

Center lines are expensive but I've picked them up for $30 or less on ebay if you wait.

 

http://www.centerline-products.com

 

Anyhow you will find a myriad of opinions on track cleaning! Probably one of the most hotly debated issues out there! Just listen to points and then figure out what works best for you, there is no one perfect answer!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

Thanks, I think I'll pick up a Tomix car and a centerline car.

 

I used abrasive cleaning on my OO gauge tracks when I was a kid. It definately ruins the look. I don't want to to that again.

 

I cleaned my unitrack with Isopropyl and muslin cloth. I just kept rubbing until they were super shiny. It took a while. 

 

The Isopropyl doesn't damage the black paint on the single unitrack but WARNING It takes off the white paint on the concrete tie double track, easily. 

[cteno4]

oooh good to know. it does take up the wooden tie paint a tiny bit, but it takes a lot of cleaning to notice any difference on the ties and if it does it just looks like the discoloration usually between the rails in the center of the ties!

 

one way to reduce the rubbing on the ties is to just wrap a couple thicknesses of cloth over a 1" x 1/8" stick that has the end of the stick sanded to a half round (the short way). this gives a good hard scrubbing to just the rail heads and just over the edges of the rail w/o getting the ties rubbed. just takes a little more effort to move the cloth than on your universal digit! also helps reach into bridges and hard to reach places. Scenic Express has a wand with cleaning pads and a swiveling head but ive only found this useful in bridges and the free finger or stick and old tee shirt works better on openly reachable track! 

 

jeff

[gavino200]

I'm using double sided carpet tape to fasten down unitrack to XPS foamboard, so far it's holding well but I suspect it'd do a better job if I used longer pieces. I've used it before to attach WS track underlay to the same base material and found that it held it very securely. Though with some careful handling, I could relocate/reuse the foam & tape.  

How thick is the tape you use? Does it cause a perceptible bump? Is is well hidden under the unitrack?

[nah00]

I use dollar store q-tips with isopropyl alcohol. Have to be careful around where the rail joints are to not get fibers stuck in it but that's the biggest drawback. 

 

I have a Tomix track cleaning car but the pads always end getting ripped off by turnouts. It's use as a trackuum cleaner outweighs this problem though. 

[cteno4]

I like trackuum cleaner!

 

Jeff

[Kabutoni]

I use alcohol tissues and/or cleaning towels for glasses with a track cleaning fluid or IPA. The latter ones don't have any fibers that will get stuck, can absob dirt easily, and are washable.

[cteno4]

thicker old tee shirts and worn out flannel sheets have been the best combo of low lint, little sticking and good scrubbing and absorption of cleaner. price is an issue though...

 

jeff