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What do you do today on your layout?

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#541 Madsing

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 06:30 AM

Btw. signals: the Tomix light signal heads i ordered are on their way and i can hardly wait to test them with manual control. (they are considerably cheaper than the automatic signals and in theory usable as entry and exit signals)


kvp, are you talking about these signals?
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10405410
Thanks


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#542 Pauljag900

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 12:18 PM

Fitted some lights to the buildings on the shrine area.
Attached File  IMG_1834.JPG   147.09KB   5 downloads
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#543 Suica

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 12:59 PM

Looks wonderful, Paul!


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j0mXULK.png  Goodbye Hakucho!


#544 Drunkenclam

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 03:12 AM

Wow. My 40 metres of cable didn't get me very far. Enough to do 6 power feeds. Just waiting for the power switches so I can connect them all up.
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#545 Pauljag900

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 04:53 AM

Wow. My 40 metres of cable didn't get me very far. Enough to do 6 power feeds. Just waiting for the power switches so I can connect them all up.


It certainly does nt last long once you start running the wires in mate that s for sure.
I ve been using 100 metre rolls,and I ve been using 2core 12v cable and I m on my fourth roll!!
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#546 cteno4

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 09:10 AM

Wire goes poof fast and now under expensive! Best deals I've found for heavier stuff like 18 or 16g is using speaker wire. Home install stuff comes red/black and an outer sheath for down to 10 cents/ft

Jeff
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#547 Pauljag900

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 10:10 AM

Wire goes poof fast and now under expensive! Best deals I've found for heavier stuff like 18 or 16g is using speaker wire. Home install stuff comes red/black and an outer sheath for down to 10 cents/ft
Jeff

That's exactly what I use now Jeff 👍👍works out at half price more or less,I pay £12 for 100 meters of red/black with free postage.

Edited by Pauljag900, 13 June 2017 - 10:12 AM.


#548 cteno4

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 10:16 AM

That's an excellent price! I've been shocked by how much wire prices have risen in the last few years. Copper mainly I guess.

Jeff
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#549 Pauljag900

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 10:58 AM

I reckon you re spot on there jeff.
I used to buy 20m rolls from a guy on eBay and I needed a couple of rolls for some street lights but when I checked my watch list they ve almost doubled in price from £2.45 to £4.40.i managed to find a guy in Ireland selling 8 x 25m rolls all diferent colours for £13.50 with postage,
Paul

#550 Railtunes

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 06:48 PM

Yesterday and this morning I did some retrofitting and upgrading of models I made in the 1970s and 80s. All of these models have since been superseded by more modern offerings, but I wanted to get these running again as momentos of what we early N scalers had to do "back in the day" to get decent running models.

 

The models are Lone Star rubber band drive and Ibertren 3-rail models that I repowered with Minitrix mechanisms, which were some of the best running and pulling locos of the day. However, over time, the bushings on the motor shafts began to slip, so I removed these and squared off the shafts. I fitted square brass tubing over these to seat into the drive shaft connector to the trucks. This prohibits any slippage and the locos all run great again.

 

In the process, I also replaced some of the worn motor brushes, cleaned up all the electrical contacts, relubricated everything and touched up some paint.

 

Attached are photos of the locos involved: First: two British Lone Star models: Type 2 D5100 Class 24 Bo-Bo and Type 2 D5900 Class Bo-Bo.

Second: Ibertren RENFE (Spanish) 2100 Class ALCO and Ibertren New South Wales (Australian) 44 Class ALCO "World".

Finally, my A-B-A Canadian Pacific set. All three units are powered, drawbarred and interwired for reliability. Canadian modelers: I now know about the roof stripe - which I didn't back in the 1970s - so no "rivet counting", please!

 

- Paul Ingraham, AsiaN (and other) Rail

Attached Files


Edited by Railtunes, 20 June 2017 - 10:59 AM.

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#551 Pauljag900

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 10:31 PM

Wow! That's what you call modelling,well done mate👍👍😀

#552 Drunkenclam

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 02:59 AM

More wiring, cutting, joining, clipping and cable tie-ing.

My switches stuck in customs for a week :(
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#553 the_weird_one

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 04:39 AM

Spent the weekend learning to solder so I could wire droppers to each piece of my track without melting the sleepers


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#554 Khaul

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 07:43 AM

Yesterday and this morning I did some retrofitting and upgrading of models I made in the 1970s and 80s. All of these models have since been superseded by more modern offerings, but I wanted get these running again as momentos of what we early N scalers had to do "back in the day" to get decent running models.
 
The models are Lone Star rubber band drive and Ibertren 3-rail models that I repowered with Minitrix mechanisms, which were some of the best running and pulling locos of the day. However, over time, the bushings on the motor shafts began to slip, so I removed these and squared off the shafts. I fitted square brass tubing over these to seat into the shaft connector to the trucks. This prohibits any slippage and the locos all run great again.
 
In the process, I also replaced some of the worn motor brushes, cleaned up all the electrical contacts, relubricated everything and touched up some paint.
 
Attached are photos of the locos involved: First: two British Lone Star models: Type 2 D5100 Class 24 Bo-Bo and Type 2 D5900 Class Bo-Bo.
Second: Ibertren RENFE (Spanish) 2100 Class ALCO and Ibertren New South Wales 44 Class ALCO "World".
Finally, my A-B-A Canadian Pacific set. All units are powered, drawbarred and interwired for reliability. Canadian modelers: I now know about the roof stripe - which I didn't back in the 1970s, so no "rivet counting", please!
 
- Paul Ingraham, AsiaN (and other) Rail


Holy cow! My cousin had a 3 rail ibertren set. I loved to play with those trains! Did you repaint a RENFE 1600 in the NSWGR colours? Great work!

#555 Railtunes

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 10:44 AM

G-day, Khaul!

 

Yes, the NSW 44 class is a complete redetailing, repainting and repowering of the Ibertren RENFE ALCO 1600. When I built the model in 1981 I was fortunate to have Aussie friends who supplied the photos, plans and decals for the project - no internet back then!

 

I also wrote up the project for the Australian Model Railway Magazine who published it in issue 111, Vol. 10, No. 6, December 1981. You may have that issue or can access it fairly easily, since it's your local publication. If not, I have a scan of the article I can send you if you contact me directly: < pei @ sonic.net > [minus the spaces, of course].

 

I am currently anxiously awaiting the arrival of the new 44 class model from Phil Badger (Gopher Models) - along with the 36 class 4-6-0 and some other bits. Last week I got a parcel of freight stock from Aust-N-Rail and, a few months ago, I found some other Aussie N scale bits in a local NMRA auction, so I'm finally making good on the stated intention that I made in the 1981 article to do some Aussie modelling.

 

Paul Ingraham, AsiaNRail


Edited by Railtunes, 20 June 2017 - 11:03 AM.


#556 IST

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Posted Yesterday, 07:46 AM

Started to learn how to make a tree from wires (another club member showed us the steps):

 

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This is my result after 30 minutes of twisting:

 

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Painted the styrene sheet on a T-trak modul with a Tamiya road paint:

 

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Added some bushes to another modul:

 

Attached File  IMG_1953.jpg   246.21KB   1 downloads


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#557 cteno4

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Posted Yesterday, 08:54 AM

Love the twisted wire technique it makes really realistic branching and tapering and also with some thick craft paint the trunks and bigger limbs get some nice texture. Plus easy to bend the tree to the shape that looks best when planted on the layout.

Jeff
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#558 Rmsinsd

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Posted Yesterday, 04:22 PM

This post could fit in here, track systems, and b-train threads! A piece of info for those contemplating a mini or micro layout: I just received some Kato 20-176 track, 117mm (4 5/8") radius curved track pieces. Now that's tight!

Anyhow, my first concern was whether B-Trains could negotiate these turns.....and they did, even at a scale speed that would throw passengers against the outside windows from centrifugal force!

Attached File  IMG_1436.JPG   131.36KB   1 downloads

Edited by Rmsinsd, Yesterday, 04:22 PM.

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#559 Pauljag900

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Posted Yesterday, 11:53 PM

This post could fit in here, track systems, and b-train threads! A piece of info for those contemplating a mini or micro layout: I just received some Kato 20-176 track, 117mm (4 5/8") radius curved track pieces. Now that's tight!
Anyhow, my first concern was whether B-Trains could negotiate these turns.....and they did, even at a scale speed that would throw passengers against the outside windows from centrifugal force!
attachicon.gifIMG_1436.JPG

Wait till you try them on 103mm rad,i used 103 on the tram line on my previous layout and they worked just fine,not sure they looked quite right tho ha ha
Paul

Edited by Pauljag900, Yesterday, 11:54 PM.


#560 Pauljag900

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Posted Today, 12:13 AM

With the main layout almost complete except for a bit of detailing it s time to make a start planning the tram layout which will be built as a seperate module and will sit on a table at the same height as the main layout down the LH side opposite the mountain module
Attached File  IMG_1818.JPG   164.5KB   0 downloadsThe layout will have three blocks of buildings which I m going to split into three countries,Japan,Germany and America.The reason for this is purely because I like the buildings in each of these countries plus most come as a kit which need to be made so will take longer to make,if will also include a small working fairground in the middle.I ve made a rough plan of how I want it but as we all know things never quite go according to plan so we ll see.

I m going to use foam board for the top and bottom of the baseboard with polystyrene strips to strengthen it this will also give me a void for hiding the wires.i intend to lay the track out on a table , measure it and construct the baseboard to suit,I m guessing it will be about 170x65cm.I ll lay the track and use 6mm foam underlay to bring the rest of the base up to track height.The track I need is ordered and I ll order the baseboard materials next week,hopefully it ll take about a month to get the baseboard made and trams running then the fun will start.
Any thoughts,ideas or sugestions always welcome,
Paul

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