Jump to content
bill937ca

What did you do on your layout today?

Recommended Posts

chadbag

Those look like the wire snips I have (x4 since they are cheap and always needed).  Are they the same sort of thing or are they somehow different for cutting plastic?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Kiha66

They are similar, except one side is ground flush so you'll get a clean break.  They are also cut to a much sharper angle so they tend to tear the plastic less.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
cteno4

Regular flush cutters will do the job, but leave funky edges. The good spew cutters usually cut with one blade so it’s like a blade shearing off in one cut so you don’t get the pinch from both sides and the raised mound in the center like you get from regular flush cutters.

 

the god hand cutters are the nicest, but not cheap, I’ve been going to order a pair, and have to just break down and do it!

 

but don’t cut wire with the screw cutters, they are sharp but very brittle cutting blades.

 

tamiya make nice ones a well that are not the $45 of the top end god hand cutters. The zuron are decent as well.

 

jeff

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Sheffie

Yeah, I’m expecting delivery on Tuesday. Luckily the set has a second “sheet” of accessories, so I’ll have another chance with those little barrows and carts. Maybe a tiny file can help with taking the sprue marks off the top of the oil barrels too. 

Share this post


Link to post
Pauljag900
6 minutes ago, Sheffie said:

Yeah, I’m expecting delivery on Tuesday. Luckily the set has a second “sheet” of accessories, so I’ll have another chance with those little barrows and carts. Maybe a tiny file can help with taking the sprue marks off the top of the oil barrels too. 

You can always use one of your wife’s emery boards that they use for their nails as a temporary measure👍😀

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
cteno4

If you are not painting then usually very careful shaving off progressive thin shaves off the bump with a sharp #11 blade works best. Use a new xacto blade when doing this.

 

the discoloration of the styrene comes with pressure stress and trying to force off a larger hunk with the blade or dull cutter can cause it to whiten. 

 

Emmery boards and files work well, but can leave a scratched appearance if on a larger surface. They are great if you are painting afterwards. Use the very fine ones though as styrene is pretty soft.

 

one great thing is to practice on scrap sprue pieces. Carving off nibs is one of those practice, practice, practice things. Also worth keeping sharp blades in while doing this. You can get some very fine emmery boards or very fine grit sand paper (800 or greater) and strop your blades now and then to keep edges clean, but I’ve found over the years it’s worth tossing a 10-20 cent blade (get a box of 100) and keeping focused on what I’m doing. Sharp blades really make a difference in doing clean cleanup and a lot of work in general and it’s just human nature to keep using a dull blade that costs 20 cents on a potentially expensive set of parts! I always have to keep reminding myself to replace xacto and matte knife blades and every time when the new blade cuts like butter I have to slap my head! And I’ve probably changed many thousands of those blades in my life and still forget...

 

cutting sprues connections with a hobby knife directly usually leads to a number of problems. Sprue cutters do a much nicer job and depending on how good the cutters are you can get very flush with them with little or no knife cleanup.

 

cheers

 

jeff

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
nah00
On 2/24/2019 at 3:18 AM, cteno4 said:

the god hand cutters are the nicest, but not cheap, I’ve been going to order a pair, and have to just break down and do it!

 

but don’t cut wire with the screw cutters, they are sharp but very brittle cutting blades.

 

tamiya make nice ones a well that are not the $45 of the top end god hand cutters. The zuron are decent as well.

 

The God Hand ones are worth every penny. Had mine for two years and swear by them. I still use Xurons to cut the pieces from the plastic gates so I have less to take off with the God Hands. You do have to treat them carefully and since they will cut right through anything and can cut too much (which can damage parts or the blade). 

Share this post


Link to post
Drunkenclam

Due to Mrs Clam slashing my project funding. This mountain hill was originally going to be made from textured sheets. It's now newspaper and plaster. Just wished I nabbed a roll of low tack tape from the office to protect the rails. 

Slowly but surely getting there. Just haven't told Mrs Clam yet  I want 2 sets of the apartment buildings. 

 

20190228_175116.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
gavino200
1 hour ago, Drunkenclam said:

Due to Mrs Clam slashing my project funding. This mountain hill was originally going to be made from textured sheets. It's now newspaper and plaster. Just wished I nabbed a roll of low tack tape from the office to protect the rails. 

Slowly but surely getting there. Just haven't told Mrs Clam yet  I want 2 sets of the apartment buildings. 

 

 

 

That crossing looks amazing. How many kits did you have to buy to get all those extra middle bits?

Share this post


Link to post
Drunkenclam
3 hours ago, gavino200 said:

 

That crossing looks amazing. How many kits did you have to buy to get all those extra middle bits?

 

I brought a used one off YJA that had one extention piece with it, but had damaged wires for the track sensors, also missing the ramps. then brought 2 more extentions and a couple of the wiring extention kits to replace the damaged wires.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Sheffie

I realized that if I move my crossing to the other end of my front straight, I can add 62mm to each of the sidings in the freight yard, which is very nice. (I initially thought it’d be 124, but testing indicated I wouldn’t be able to back my long cars over the points at anything more than minimum speed, if the points were right next to the curve.)

This change also puts my road crossing in a great position to serve my freight and passenger platforms and my freight warehouse. 

The only real cost was doing some minor wiring work to move the super crossover 62mm down the line. 

So I’m still counting it as a win-win. 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Khaul

It's been difficult to do anything train related lately, but today I managed to find some time. I almost forgot how much fun it is! I didn't do much in the layout other than exploring the possibilities of a double background. I did not even powered the tracks to at least get the trains lighted. 

 

large.DSC_1056.jpg.98069d2d3ad9eddb18ddfb3c6fc01a39.jpg

That's the rig: a double background to (almost) completely camouflage the entrance to the module.

 

large.DSC_1051.jpg.45579b33b0d26c770cd672b1a7937eec.jpg

Ta da!

 

large.DSC_1058.jpg.e5ebf9cff5917cd6f5560401048b541d.jpg

Featuring TaKi 43000s and a souped up Tomix HG 103.

 

large.DSC_1061.jpg.f288dcb87ba87aef1b4a0cab311db4c4.jpg

A view of the 103. I painted the door rubber lines with a Gunpla pen. They are not perfect, yet.

 

large.DSC_1070.jpg.176f4c4e61250d0a2348d4fc972ee738.jpg

Pity not to have the lights on.

 

large.DSC_1063.jpg.d6b53aff147a7be99b80059c6b8f8523.jpg

Shifting the background location we get this very Tsurumi line atmosphere.

 

large.DSC_1060.jpg.36538e7726f2f3652639c090f63d5f3c.jpg

My son says the interior of the station does not look so good. Well, the rest does look better.

  • Like 21

Share this post


Link to post
cteno4

Nice work khaul!

 

jeff

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Kiha66

Looks great!  I really love the figures in the car, I need to start doing that on my trains.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Khaul

Thanks Kiha. The figures in the car are the cheapo Chinese ones from eBay. I am not combining those with some nicer Tomix and Kato ones.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Khaul

I said I don't like the interior of the station. I did something to improve it today. 

 

large.DSC_1066.jpg.16e90b83106b14f439d938f3e0cab02e.jpg

Before. There is a gap on top of the ticket vending machines and the internal wall looks a bit wonky.

 

large.DSC_1076.jpg.9ed43537b35a34f6ea41b420cda66b01.jpg

I cover the gap with a timetable and I strategically placed a column to make the wonkiness less apparent. 

 

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
EH500 (12)

 

Just when I thought I was done I ran into a bit of a problem that took me a few days to solve, but now everything should be working as planed.

All thats left now is a bit more coding.

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
gavino200

I finally got around to detailing and lighting my Imperial Train. I was able to use the last of my Kato lights thanks to @Waisneed for giving me some diffusers he had. The roof details were particularly difficult to apply. It took a while.

 

RFZ3OuU.jpg

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
railsquid

Oooh, I must do mine up before the end of April to commemorate the current Emp's retirement.

 

(I thought about applying for the job as it come with your own train, which would be cool, but apparently you need family connections and there are some onerous citizenship requirements).

  • Like 1
  • Haha 6

Share this post


Link to post
Khaul

I have been doing some lighting work (more about that soon) and considering an idea. Instead of having a large factory courtyard as shown in the first two pictures below:

 

large.IMG_2059.JPG.0ba85110637472d390d512443da69817.JPGlarge.IMG_2061.JPG.f91c16d1dada68b1ab563761dc2a9f38.JPG

 

Put the Greenmax factory shed there with a short piece of track and a loading dock.

 

large.IMG_2207.jpg.73dcf30e3ddd622d300705f7707fba49.jpg

 

I think it would look nice if done well, but I am not sure if that would be too much.

 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Pauljag900

Nice idea👍

Truth is you wo nt know until you try it.

when this happens to me I always try to do it without fixing anything and just lay it loose so you can remove it if you do nt like it👍👍😀

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Sheffie
Posted (edited)

Assembled the engine shed, shown with engines parked for the night.

F03E38B4-A70B-4FE5-8DE5-4617F9A40309.thumb.jpeg.f4de51f02b356df35a29a9f94a8f9a09.jpeg

Added the tanker to the freight train and placed the new trucks ready to load and unload goods. 

96F351DE-2500-49F0-9122-55E4406EA50C.thumb.jpeg.3027e538619415a7e1f6a412902c3ef6.jpeg

 

And (not illustrated) performed some more surgery on points, in an attempt to buy me more space for sidings, realized that was futile, rebuilt the freight sidings again and revised the likely rolling stock that will fill them (TL/DR: more Kokis)

Edited by Sheffie
  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
malcoJOJO

Layout update video.

 

 

And, a little video bumper I was playing around with.....

 

 

I really have not been checking in here as often as I wanted to. I was saying to a buddy of mine that I need to stick a post-it onto my computer to remind myself or something! heheheh

Cheers All!
https://n-rail.blogspot.com/

 

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
JR 500系

Hi that's an impressive layout! I love your customised buildings and those signs! Very nice indeed! Thanks for sharing! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Drunkenclam

Waiting to get a bit more plaster from another engineer to finish off the incline section. Did run the hoover over the excess plaster. Took up the rails to scrap the plaster off them. Just eyeing up which apartment buildings I want. I like the aoshima ones.

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×