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bill937ca

What did you do on your layout today?

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brill27mcb
Posted (edited)
On 1/5/2019 at 9:44 AM, AllenZ said:

Hi Bill.  Did this work for you? I'm trying the exact same thing and neither of my 2 Kato 24-850 N Scale Power Feed Control Switches work.  I can't figure out what I"m doing wrong.

 

Allen

 

Hi Allen, you did plug both a block feeder cable and a track power supply cable into your feed control switch, right? It needs an input cable and an output cable. The constant 12 volt DC connections made by snapping this switch onto the Kato power pack are not used by the switch itself and only pass through it to the other side to maintain  continuity of the buss.

 

You probably have already done this, but since you're stumped I am pointing out the obvious, just in case. You also need to be sure you are feeding power to the track on either side of the stop block.

 

My prediction (based on my own experience with multiple things running and multiple switches) is that with four plaza blocks and two stop blocks, and with the power feed switches all in a non-helpful row, Bill will add trams until he starts to suffer from "air traffic controller overload."

 

Rich K.

Edited by brill27mcb

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Drunkenclam

I used the kato track switches on my layout. 

As what Rich said. The switch has a short lead to plug into the back of the controller and 2 outputs on the back, one switchable, the other a constant supply to feed to the next switch or send to a non isolated piece of track. 

Also on the sides you have the thought supply for point/turnout switches. But not effected by the switch. 

 

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Nornicle

Paul why are you tearing down?!

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chadbag

Today I bought 3 sheets of 24" x 18" acrylic and had them cut to be 6" x 24" for a total of 9 pieces.  I need 8 so one is extra.  This will give me 3 sides of my 4'x8' frame layout as safety fences.  The last side is my scenery board so all 4 sides will be protected from trains falling on the concrete.  Hopefully I can get these fences made tomorrow (Saturday).

 

I also bought a particle board shelf (since it has a nice surface finish) and had it cut into a 3' section, a 2.5' section, and the rest piece (which is slightly longer than 2.5').  On one I will put my DR5000 command station, the booster, and my loconet and XpressNet hubs, my switch controller, and my block detection controllers.  The other will have a programming track (using my minitrix track I got in a basic set) and the D&H programmer on it.  The last will have my DC controllers.   My attempt at organizing the electronics of the layout.  

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Pauljag900

Can t wait to see it chad👍👍😀

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chadbag

I drilled holes on one side of my layout frame, and cut dowels to fit.  I was going to glue the acrylic sheets to the dowels but now I may just press fit them in.  The dowls are up close andtight against the foam so they hold the acrylic in just fine without gluing.  I did glue one for a test.   They are a bit higher than I really need so I may cut them down from 6" high to 3" high (which will give me a 2" barrier -- is that enough?)

 

I also bought a particle board shelf and cut it into sections.  I mounted the DCC stuff to it (have not wired it up yet).  Trying to keep organized.

 

 

IMG_0258.jpg

IMG_0259.jpg

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Pauljag900

Just an idea buddy,if you leave the acrylic at 6” that may give you enough clearance to put a lid on it when it’s not being used to keep the dust off?

so long as it was light enough,say like foamcard sheets glued together,just a thought mate and obviously dependent on your buildings height but did you say you were nt fixing them down.? You could always remove them I guess.

in my shed the layout needs a bit of a track rub once a week if I do nt use it everyday but the thomas layout in the house has nt been cleaned since the day I laid the track and it’s still running fine now,two months later,the glass lid is keeping the dust off.

just a thought buddy👍😀

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gavino200
36 minutes ago, chadbag said:

  They are a bit higher than I really need so I may cut them down from 6" high to 3" high (which will give me a 2" barrier -- is that enough?)

 

Two inches is plenty. My plexiglass barrier is 1.5 inches and no train has ever jumped the shark.

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cteno4

Smaller the better, even an inch would do it unless you plan on being Gomez Adams... the lower the better to get at things and the less in the line of sight. Really does not need much to prevent a tumble.

 

you can just install them by adding a strip of wood to the edge of the layout with a slot or long rabit joint in it for the plex to sit in a half inch or so. Then easy to pull it out when you need to work on stuff. The strip can also act as a finish moulding to make a nice presentation edge to the layout base.

 

On our new club layout we plan to just put the plex strips on with a few magnets countersunk into the edge of the layout modules and face the plex bottom with the same cherry wood veneer so it looks like the edge of the modules. Hoping this will get rid of one issue with the corners of the plex strips is they tended to catch things like camera straps, club badges on lanyards, and clothing (although they helped prevent these things from swinging onto the layout) once and a while. The magnetic attachment should allow a graceful breakaway if something is caught up.

 

if you want the plex edge to disappear more you need to mill the edge smooth with the router and if you want a really clean edge block sand it smooth with progressively higher grit papers, then use a butane torch to flame polish the edge to get that clear look on the edge. Now it’s smooth and a lot clearer so the edge does not catch the eye as much. Test with some scraps, takes a little practice but can look very nice. Several Youtube examples. Some clear acrylics (usually the more brittle stuff) don’t flame polish as well, again test first.

 

jeff

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chadbag

I think I will split the 6" high sheets into 3" high sheets.  1" is below the ground level so that would be 2" above.   We'll see how that works out.  The main purpose is to keep the trains from falling off onto the concrete floor if they derail.  We sit higher than the level so the sheets, especially at that height, are not much of an issue in terms of view, for now.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

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gavino200

My current plexi barrier rests on the layout baseboard and is sandwiched between the foamboard and the front fascia. There's also some glue involved. 

 

But on my previous layout which was a "board over table" design like yours, I used a very simple method. I fixed the plexi directly to the edges of the foamboard with adhesive. I then masked off the 'above board' part of the plexi. (ie. the part that will be the final clear barrier), and then painted the lower part of the plexi using the same latex paint that I used to paint the upper surface of the foamboard. It actually looked pretty good. It looked like the plexi barrier was somehow fixed perfectly flush to the very edge perimeter of the board. Just a thought.

 

I tried to find a picture of the plexi glass. All I could find is a picture of the layout before the barrier. The trains are about a half inch from the edge with nothing to stop them if they decided to head over the edge. We had.....eh....a few crashes.

 

dwEOtU0.jpg

Edited by gavino200
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Drunkenclam

Another weekend of cutting, gluing and clamping. With a little bit of plaster on the side. 

 

20190114_184713.thumb.jpg.2c5a8dee893eb84047dc19ec171f9453.jpg

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