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Temporary Layout - questions from newbie


locidm

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Locidm,

 

Tuning the #4 may be your only option then. So it is derailing when just going into the point blade tip, correct? If not what situations does it derail?

 

You've done the right test swapping Did you swap with the one working on the other side? If the problem follows the point then it's that individual point. If it's location then maybe swap out the unijoiners on the connecting track pieces in the offending spot. Also make sure it's all setting flat and level at around the point and as the train goes over. Unitrak not nailed down can bend and move quite a bit when trains go over it. If the wires are attached to the point and going then your base board they can sometimes push up or over on the point in odd ways. We use to have this on our club 1.0 layout where we set things up on the fly and poked point wires thru holes in the foam baseboard. Making bigger holes solved the problem. Do all the track joints feel even around the offending point? If any feel short might try the old trick or just running a fine file at a 45 to the ends of the rail tops so they are not super sharp. I've and a few track ends that made wheels jump and derail at times and jumping going thru a #4 will make it cranky.

 

Sadly the #4 seem prone to odd issues. At times they can be great and pretty flawless for some, but cranky or random for others. I've bad both great luck and random oddities with them in different situations. Tuning does seem to help a lot, but it's some work.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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> Sadly the #4 seem prone to odd issues. At times they can be great and pretty flawless for some, but cranky or random for others. I've bad both great luck and random oddities with them in different situations. Tuning does seem to help a lot, but it's some work.

 

It seems odd that Kato hasn't revised/improved their manufacturing procedure through all these years, as no doubt many more Japanese modelers experience this than the small sampling we hear from on the forum, and we've had several cases just in the past month or so.

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One more thing, i had two #4 points that shipped with dislocated tension springs. The small springs jumped off the center position to the side, which meant that one position had great holding power, in the other position the blades could be moved easily by the wheels. Disassembling and centering the springs fixed both without any grinding.

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Thanks guys! I need to buy a file! I'll also check the spring location too.

 

It doesn't sound like a case where new trains need "break in" before behaving well on point?

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If you have a way to check the wheel gauging on your wheelsets, like an NMRA gauge that the flanges fit into, that would be good to check. I believe the edge of the light blue Kato re-railing tool might have this, if I am remembering correctly.

 

Rich K.

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No, unfortunately I doubt any breaking will help. But if it's mainly from a new train having issues then checking wheel gauge, free truck rotation, truck angles (sometimes a truck will be running tilted), etc on that new train is a good place to start. #4s in my experience when there are issues it tends to be more train specific.

 

Jeff

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Ordered the files. It will be awhile before it arrives. Meanwhile I'll just live with he derailment. Lol.

 

The good news, all my platforms finally arrived after what felt like forever. Didn't have time to sticker them up but put it in to see what it looks like. It's more fun to drive the train now that there is a proper station to stop at on the main loop.

 

Also began the viaduct electrification process as the catenary arrived also with the platforms. Forgot to take pictures though.

 

9FB8DBE1-0524-47B0-BFEA-15B307137E52_zps

 

4D39FDE6-5469-4C0C-BAA2-365F18931556_zps

 

94BD1588-ACB6-41F8-A95A-CD9A2CC244D6_zps

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Thanks Eurostar!

 

Since this is a temporary layout, I probably will never have realistic roads built in. I did cut out some foam sheets and laid out part of the main road to the two stations.

 

9D3819BB-7A55-4E99-8DA4-EAE57DB50698_zps

 

But soon after we were attacked by Zentradis. Good thing UN Spacey is here to fight them off.

 

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2E2098F6-17B9-450A-B4F9-3793A7F59617_zps

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Haven't done much work to the layout but did acquire a few new buildings.

twikGRYh.jpg

Any advice on how to get stickers to stay put on rounded surfaces?

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19 minutes ago, locidm said:

Any advice on how to get stickers to stay put on rounded surfaces?

Imho make sure the surface is clean before sticker application (no dust or fingerprints), then try to apply the sticker without putting it under tension, so bend it with minimal force without pulling and let it roll onto the surface on its own. This will avoid storing any tension in the plastic sticker that could slowly pull it off. Bending it into the right shape before removing the backing sheet could also help.

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