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Questions for a Newby


Paroan24

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Thanks Jeff.  I have never used one of these before so excuse this question.  On the one you linked to, it shows the outlets of 3 prongs.  The power controllers are regular 2 prong type plugs - does that matter?  I assume they can still be plugged into this?

 

Can I plug all 3 controllers into a power strip and plug the strip into the converter or do I have to get 3 converters?

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In the european union the only rule is to have an EU certificate, but that requires 240V tolerance. (this also excludes older legacy 220V devices)

 

Best to be safe, so unplugging or disconnecting at the distribution strip is a good strategy.

 

Btw. some newer Tomix controllers use 12V DC wall adapters, so those could be replaced with a local generic one if they are not already 100-240V 50/60Hz AC to 12V DC universal adapters.

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Yes a power strip should be fine on it. You can also just use one of those simple 2 prong lamp extension cords that have the three 2 prong outlets on the end.

 

They put universal 3 prong on both sides for simplicity. Your tomix controller will have a 2 prong polarized plug (like most of our things do now) and it will plug into the 100v socket there fine and just won't use the grounding socket.

 

It's important to have the 3 prong grounded on the plug of the converter as its a better ground to use (backup dedicated ground wire) just incase anything were ever to blow. Our 2 prong polarized ac plugs use one of the power wires as a ground and it works well, but when you want to be safe the dedicated ground wire is better on a device like the step down converter. Clear as mud?

 

Jeff

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Well, clear as my non-electrical brain can understand  :)

 

By the way, I am in northwest Arkansas.  All my N scale buildings have been lugged around from NY, AZ, ID, and now AR.  

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Btw. some newer Tomix controllers use 12V DC wall adapters, so those could be replaced with a local generic one if they are not already 100-240V 50/60Hz AC to 12V DC universal adapters.

 

Hi Paul,

 

I'm thinking you would not need a converter and if I'm quoting KPV correctly - that would be the case.  Can someone please confirm.

 

Thanks,

Junior

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Junior,

 

You need to look at the power supply with your tomix controller. The older ones were 100v ac input only, so yes these should be run thru a 120 to 100v drop down converter. Newer ones have 100-240v universal transformers (wall warts) so they don't need the drop down transformer as they do it automatically.

 

A way around using the drop down transformer is to just buy a new wall wart that takes 120v input and puts out the 12v DC the controller wants. These can easily be found, just have to get one with the right DC plug to go into the controller (and has the correct polarity but this is usually pretty standard but always good to check). You could of course get any 12v dc output 120v transformer/wall wart and graft the controller plug from the 100v tomix wall wort to your new 120v one. There are transformers out there that you can set the out put voltage (like 6, 9, 12v) and come with a set of DC end plugs you can just plug on the right one and even reverse the polarity if needed.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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Actually Jeff, those two that Junior showed go with the N-600 & N-1001-CL that I just purchased from him.  So I doubt he cares and I have absolutely no idea what you just said  :lovestory:

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Jeff wrote:  "Newer ones have 100-240v universal transformers (wall warts) so they don't need the drop down transformer as they do it automatically."

 

and 100-240v is precisely what is written on the two you're buying from Junior, so they do not need a converter.

 

I also believe these are both fairly recent models.

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Sorry bout that! I'll try to backup some here.

 

I misse one of the posts there by junior.

 

The good news is his two are the universal power converters! They can plug into anything from 100v to 240v ac all current. This means they will not need to be run thru a drop down transformer and can be plugged into your wall sockets!

 

The one you currently have does it say only 100v ac for the input or does it say 100-240v input? Just take a picture of it like junior did if it's not clear to you and we can work from there.

 

These wall wort transformers take the house ac power (110-120 v ac in the us and 100v ac in Japan) and convert it to 12v DC power that the controller uses to run the trains by varying the power from 0-12v DC.

 

Older wall wart transformers had only a single input voltage of like 100v, 120v, 220v meant only for specific areas like us Japan and Europe, etc. to use them in a place with different house voltages you have to use a separate step up or step down transformer between the wall and your device to get the proper input voltage to your wall wart transformer.

 

Some wall wart transformers (like the two you are getting from junior) have the circuitry built into them to use any input house ac power from 100-240v so they can be used directly into the wall anywhere in the world.

 

Let's see what yours is and we can go from there. Clear as mud? Don't worry about asking questions! I was skipping over stuff there, sorry.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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No juniors don't need a drop down transformer to work, as they can do it themselves! They can take any wall power from 100-240v ac to work,

 

The question is the older one you already have what does it say on the wall wart. If it can take only 100v ac input then you need a drop down transformer to bring your wall power of 120v down to the 100v the wall wart wants.

 

Can you take a picture of the back of your wall wort like junior did?

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

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Yep this one should be run thru one of the 120v ac to 100v ac drop down transformers like linked above. Only your old one needs to be plugged into it.

 

The other option We were referring to above was that you could replace that old 100v tomix wall wort with one that is either universal (like the two newer ones junior has) or one that is just 120v input to work in the us. You might contact mtp and see how much a tomix universal transformer is (just the wall wart, not the whole controller). I would guess they sell these as spare parts. Might be less than the cost of the drop down transformer and a much simpler solution.

 

I can see if I can find one for you if mtp can't. The only issue is getting the right sized plug on it on the end that plugs into the tomix controller.

 

Jeff

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Model Train Plus - the other store I told you about.

 

Of course, you can ask David (@ L1H) since you've already dealt with him.

 

It might still be possible to get it in the same shipment.

 

A major benefit of working with these two stores is that if they don't have something in stock (which happens, being smaller stores), they're usually willing to obtain it for you.

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Sorry I had it in my head for some reason you had ordered from model trains plus already!

 

Yes what Charles says is very good advise. Both are very customer oriented and can help you figure out what you need. Great places to build relationships with and good prices to boot.

 

Jeff

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Thanks Charles,  Yesterday David recommended 2 controllers, the N-600 for about $48 and N-DU101-CL for about $101.  He said the more expensive one is the current best one and can run multiple trains on the same track.  That one sounds great but I have to watch my budget.

 
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Paroan,

 

The 101 is fun operation and not like the old just turn the dial operation.

 

Ask Dave if tomix sells a replacement 12v DC wall wart transformer for their controllers that has the 100-240v ac universal input.

 

If you try to run multiple trains on the same track with a DC controller of any type you will find they will all run at slightly different speeds and eventually catch up to one another. It's DCC that lets you run multiple trains on one track and set individual speeds for each train so they will stay separated.

 

Because each train tends to have its own speed at any certain voltage (due to differences in motors, gears, lubrication), most folks only run one train per loop under DC. In your case now having three controllers you could have three separate loops and each would loop would be wired its own controller and have its own train run by that controller. So say have a double track loop and two controllers on it (one on each loop) the. Maybe a meandering single track loop for local trains that could do an over and under plan or a figure 8, etc as those are Easier to do with single track, and that would be run by a third controller.

 

Jeff

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