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keiichi77

Outland Models buildings

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Sohan24

Reading this thread (and getting inspired by JR 500's nicely detailed set), I decided to go and try them out myself.

Ordered the CNC milled models that were on sale: 

  • 5-Story Apartment with Garage
  • Modern 3-Story Building Office / House
  • Railway Modern Building Dormitory / School
  • Parking Tower 

Ordered on Oct. 26, and they were delivered today, the 6th. So shipping time isn't bad.

I'll probably use hot glue when constructing the kits so I can go back and add interior details if I choose to in the future. 

 

P1110447-min.JPG

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JR 500系

Nice!

 

Just to further add on, as one might see from my layout video, there are now much nicer and pre-painted models that makes them even more desirable as landscape filling models at half the cost of what Kato/ Tomix wants:

 

 

 

The five buildings are all from them ~ looks pretty good eh?

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cteno4

Yeah the prepainted are nice as these are essentially the same for nasty window frame and mullion painting that greenmax buildings have where the frame and mullions are not separate parts you can paint separately. I've had a thought to scan greenmax and Outland building sides to put into the silhouette cutter to cut a bit of mask leaving just the window areas open. Just have to find a larger sized masking material for the airbrushing. Thought of trying the spray temp tack onto paper.

 

the Outland basically uses a styrene sheet that  has a surface color and texture (I think in the paint application) that they just route out the window, frames and millions with the CNC router and thus the frames and mullions come out the light gray or beige of the styrene color. So an easy way for them to add color.

 

jeff

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TCC Railroad

I ordered three of their building, but I think I am going to use them as templates to draw up in Illustrator and then laser cut them with clean cut square windows and sharper details. I think I will also end up cutting them down to more than 3 stories for what I need. Once I get them done, I will share the results (good or bad...). To my eye, they look rather coarse as is on E-bay, but they have good possibilities.

 

Kurt

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cteno4

Yep they are great models to start from for lasercutting your own. the sankei as well, lots of good ideas on how to interlock things well and layer materials to give better depth and easier cutting.

 

the buildings do need some touch up to make them feel a bit more like other structures and floors are a must if you want to light them well. also potentially putting some L styrene stock in the interior wall corners to prevent light bleed out the seams. but for the price for the size buildings with a tad of work they can be right up there for exterior look as others.

 

i took one wall and very quickly squared the windows with both a blade and square file, but worked fine. easy thing to do while watching tv...

 

jeff

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bill937ca

I'm about to start working on one of the simpler. almost old Greenmax-ish Outland Models building kit. First off, a photo of what's in the kit.  This is it. There are no instructions but if you have done structure kits before this will not be a problem. The other thing I noticed is that there is a little bit of gingerbread on the facade. But if you flip it over, it is plain jane which is true of many Japanese buildings made of pre-cast materials. It i s possible to have a floors inside the building.

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Edited by bill937ca
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cteno4

Bill are you going to square all the window corners?

 

jeff

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bill937ca
1 hour ago, cteno4 said:

Bill are you going to square all the window corners?

 

jeff

 

Hmmn. Haven"t really looked that close yet. I figured today was just washing the pieces off. I probably will square them off.

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cteno4

Black and silver are the usual for metal window frames and mullions in most modern buildings. This summer I want to try scanning the buildings or do careful measurements and using the silhouette to cut out masks to spray the frames and mullions. I’m curious with a cardboard mask just pressed tight and careful airbrushing will do it w.o tape mask. Also try the opposite of spraying mullions and frames first then using cut masks to cover them and spray the wall. This will need to be done gently with an air brush though, I think cans would apply way to heavy a coat. But it will not cause the pa

 

ive done greenmax by using a silver pen after painting the whole wall the desired color. Works somewhat  just have to not hit the edge of the wall and the corners are a pain. The paint pens wirh one chisel end at an angle and one fine tip worked the best with the chisel along the frames and the fine tip in the corners. Needed some touch up which is harder wirh spray paints (spray a bit out into a container and paint quick!).

 

sadly they are a bit of work to do nicely. Anyone got other methods?

 

jeff

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