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TMD


the_weird_one

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the_weird_one

So while I can't afford or have the room living in a share to have a full layout I've been playing with the idea of having a TMD for the diesel locomotives and commuter trains that I've collected so that I do have somewhere to run them at least short term even if its not very far.

 

I'm hoping to start this next month, but welcome any comments people have on the layout design - its 1200mm long by 300mm wide so should be small enough for me to hide in my room, though the aim is to add it to a larger layout once I get my own place

 

I'll be using Peco Code 55 rail and full electrofrog points.

 

post-850-0-81516200-1455024039_thumb.jpg

Edited by the_weird_one
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Hello TWD.
What kind of trains will you be running on your layout ?

These "parking-tracks" seem very short...

 

(I'm myself confronted to the problem of building a layout of such a tiny scale (120x28cm or even 80x28cm) and will be probably running only super-mini-radius-able-trains (kiha120, b-shortys and such).)

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the_weird_one

Mainly have a fleet of 3 DD51's at the moment with a couple of single carriage diesel commuters, only other diesel I'm planning on adding to my collection is a DD16 at some point

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TWD's TMD?

 

I'm currently working with 2100mm x 300mm (IKEA Ivar shelving in Japan), designed for 4-car trains or loco + 3 coaches with later extension into a more generous space; even with that it's quite fun shunting stuff about.

 

Disclaimer: not of Birmingham but did spend much time there and even was the proud owner of a WMPTE bus pass.

Edited by railsquid
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the_weird_one

I think its a good size for me to get back into the habit of wiring and modeling, plus get a one or two fuel wagons and I can practice delivery of fuel while getting the ability to run at least part of the collection that I have

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I'm currently planning something similar, but a bit less complex. Mine will use a pair of the Kato 2-road sheds to make one long shed, with a small station (two tracks wrapped around a Kato island platform section) in the foreground. Gaps will be filled in with details, and a Tomytec building I've seen which I like the look of (if I manage to get into gear and order one before they sell out).

 

I reckon my sidings will all be able to handle a 3-car EMU, the shed roads will be long enough for four or maybe even five cars. The platform is only long enough for about one and a half but I'll assume that anyone coming in on the specials to the open day will have the sense not to try to get off the train from a door which doesn't have a platform next to it!

 

I'm still trying to decide what to do about "the rest of the world", as I won't have enough space on the board for the track leading into the pointwork. I'm looking at a spare Kato 124mm bridge I have and some assorted other track, and thinking I might make a short module featuring a small ravine, with a waterfall and some rocky scenery. It'd be good as a photographic backdrop, fun to build, and a chance to use that bridge.

Edited by Welshbloke
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I'll be using Peco Code 55 rail and full electrofrog points.

Just some quick advice:

-leave the springs in the turnouts (especially in the double slip and the 3 way)

-if you can, use the peco servo kits for throwing and polarization

-it's always a good idea to have switchable power on every storage track (both in analog and digital)

 

About the layout:

-a 20 meter car will need around 14 cm of space in 1:150

-and your shunting limits will be a bit further back from the turnouts because of the loading guage

-i can't really find out which is the entry point, but longer sets will need a clear route to move from the yard throat to their stabling points

-if you don't have much space, you might consider using a transfer table or turntable at least for the locomotive shed

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I'd suggest building it on two short boards to allow you to insert more track into the middle when you have more space available. 

 

One other option to consider is a single yard area with longer tracks, and attaching a 1 or 2 track fiddle yard / head shunt when operating.

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the_weird_one

Just some quick advice:

-leave the springs in the turnouts (especially in the double slip and the 3 way)

-if you can, use the peco servo kits for throwing and polarization

-it's always a good idea to have switchable power on every storage track (both in analog and digital)

 

About the layout:

-a 20 meter car will need around 14 cm of space in 1:150

-and your shunting limits will be a bit further back from the turnouts because of the loading guage

-i can't really find out which is the entry point, but longer sets will need a clear route to move from the yard throat to their stabling points

-if you don't have much space, you might consider using a transfer table or turntable at least for the locomotive shed

 

- Thanks for your comments on leaving the springs in the points, I had read elsewhere that if using point motors that really its better to remove them so thats something to think on

- I'm thinking of using http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GMC-PM1&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+PM-1 for my point motors as it has the polarity change module built in rather than an accessory like the Peco ones

- I was going to provide power to each piece of track, making it switchable does make some sense for DC though not sure why for DCC - and I'm planning on going DCC, can you elaborate please? genuinely interested.

 

- The shortest section of straight flex measures in at 151.9mm and thats the bottom left so could be slightly longer if needed, by my maths that should cope with a DD51 happily but if it can't a DE16 should be ok because I get that to be about 100mm long

- entry point is at the top right hand side looking at having an in and out rail rather than a single line, I've not taken them to the edge of the layout design because when it becomes part of a larger layout I'd rather the join of the rails wasn't at the same location as the join in the baseboard.

- I did think about a turntable and may look at it again

 

I'd suggest building it on two short boards to allow you to insert more track into the middle when you have more space available. 

 

One other option to consider is a single yard area with longer tracks, and attaching a 1 or 2 track fiddle yard / head shunt when operating.

 

The first line isn't an option I'd thought about as I've envisioned this module been dropped into a larger layout at some point with storage and fiddle yard next to it - definitely worth a thought though

 

Charles other post to add here

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/11147-california-folding-shelf-switcher-with-a-japanese-connection/?do=findComment&comment=131076

 

Interesting way to maybe do something larger that stores easily

 

Jeff

 

Now thats epic, but possibly pushing my space when open too much will have to get a measure out in my room and see just how long I can go

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Martijn Meerts

No reason to keep the springs in the peco turnouts if you use something like servos or other slow motion motors that stay locked in their end positions. They're really just there for manual control and in case you use solenoid points motors, since those don't always switch very reliably if you have turnouts without springs.

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Das Steinkopf

Ina-Matsushima on the Iida line provides an interesting example of an older small depot, there was originally two sheds for locomotives which has now been reduced to one. From what I have been able to gather it is now used to store heritage stock, there is also a number of sidings for EMU's to be stabled and one for per way stock.

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post-3083-0-77013700-1455074269_thumb.png

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post-3083-0-99026100-1455074305_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Das Steinkopf
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the_weird_one

Following comments made and other suggestions I've come up with the attached alternative - in the future there will be a way of going from the single entry to duel main line when it gets integrated into my larger layout

post-850-0-42449200-1455100754_thumb.jpg

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UK outline is another one of my interests, and I've always liked the TMD layouts I see on RMweb. I never thought about doing one for Japanese outline, though - what a great idea!

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the_weird_one

Making the most of the bank holiday weather been dry today I managed to get my baseboard made.

 

post-850-0-34954200-1458935360_thumb.jpgpost-850-0-32098400-1458935365_thumb.jpg

 

The top is 12mm plywood with the frame made of 3/4" x 1.2" 

 

The frame is glued and screwed together with the angle brackets for extra strength, with the board, glued and screwed to the top of the frame.

 

Going to let the glue dry for 24 hours then fill the countersinking holes.

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