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Kato platform lighting


Eurostar25

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Most individual LEDs operate at the 2-3 volt range, and you might even want less to dim the brightness.  Most LED strips, however, are 12v due to them being electrically wired with sets of three or four individual leds in series so that each bulb sees the proper voltage.  If you are using bulbs meant for 12v then the kato power pack should be fine, just be careful to make sure that the voltage supplied is at or below the bulbs rating!  

 

I'm using this 12v LED strip for my layouts buildings.  You can cut it every inch or so, and if you add a potentimeter you can vary the brightness of each building individually!  It also comes with tape already attached, which makes it really easy to add to buildings.

attachicon.gif20170304_182307.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_184548_001.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_182928.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_182739.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_183122.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_183202.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_183221.jpgattachicon.gif20170304_183234.jpg

 

 

Thanks. Great post. Have you experimented with different tones - warm white vs. pure white? I like the warm for buildings, but I'm thinking pure white for an urban platform canopy. Any opinion on that?

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Actually, your best bet would be those from ebay that costs really cheap for a 5m strip. They can be cut down into stripes of 3 LEDs each. They are really bright and can be easily soldered to the power source with wires:

 

LED_strip_light_soldering_diagram_instru

 

The wires can then be connected to a feeder cable like this:

 

 

 

These can then be connected to a simple adapter for electric supply like this:

 

 

 

The entire system is cheap and easy to do, and can also be used for buildings too aside from platforms ~

 

 

Great post. I like the little adapters you use to connect your circuit to the transformer. In my experience, those transformers come in a surprising variety of similar but different connectors. How do you match them? 

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Below is the underside of a spare Kato covered platform. Where have you guys placed your LEDs?

 

On the lowered ceiling part?

 

Directly onto the corrugated roof part? If so, at the edge? Further toward the center?

 

Also, what tone of light have you guys found, looks good with this (urban/Suburban) type of platform? I'm thinking pure white, rather than warm white.

 

 

XuyfHsv.jpg

Edited by gavino200
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Fatter led strips are dirt cheap on ebay and Nariichi at Modeltrainplus.com has some very thin ones now for sale that look better on these platform roofs.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

 

 

Are you talking about these?

 

https://www.modeltrainplus.net/products/kuroki-led36-lamp-post-with-led-warm-color-led

 

He also has these, which might be good for the lampposts at the uncovered platform ends. Ever seen these in person? How are they?

 

https://www.modeltrainplus.net/products/kuroki-led36-lamp-post-with-led-warm-color-led

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I placed my LED light strip right onto the roof of the lowered ceiling portion:

 

post-819-0-86950100-1491283539_thumb.jpg

post-819-0-83042300-1491283543_thumb.jpg

post-819-0-24753000-1491283542_thumb.jpg

post-819-0-03697600-1491283545_thumb.jpg

 

I use white LED, although I strongly recommend installing a resistor as you might see my lights are WAY too bright...

 

Although when the glue becomes weaken the strip tends to fall downwards.... Do beware of the signs that hand out from the ceiling, and the light strip needs to pass through them carefully...

Edited by JR 500系
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I placed my LED light strip right onto the roof of the lowered ceiling portion:

 

 

 

I use white LED, although I strongly recommend installing a resistor as you might see my lights are WAY too bright...

 

Although when the glue becomes weaken the strip tends to fall downwards.... Do beware of the signs that hand out from the ceiling, and the light strip needs to pass through them carefully...

 

That looks great. Thanks for posting the pictures. That's where I thought they should go. After all that's where the lights are on the real stations. I was worried that it would be too prominent. But I like how yours look.

 

I'm going wire a resistor and potentiometer into the circuit as per Jeff's advice. Still trying to think through how to make a control panel that is expandable with future additions. I think I'll make a separate post about that as it's an issue in itself.

Edited by gavino200
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Anyone know of a good LED lamppost that would be good as a substitute for the dummy lights on the Kato uncovered platform ends as pictured below.

 

They are 4 cm tall. Narichi sells a 55mm lamppost that would probably look ok. Anyone know of one closer to 4 cm?

 

https://www.modeltrainplus.net/products/kuroki-led36-lamp-post-with-led-warm-color-led

 

I could swear I've seen one of these in a JNS thread before but I can't find it.

 

FRfEsxZ.jpg

Edited by gavino200
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Gavin,

 

I remeber one like this on ebay, but a quick look and could not find this exact style.

 

Jeff

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Check Aliexpress. The Sunshine Model and EVE Model stores have quite a number of N scale models available. But they look quite large, and I'd probably buy Z scale models (advertised as 1:200).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I knew I had seen it somewhere! Yes eve models has one in Ho, but adjustable height, but the lamp would be like 3" in dia. Doesn't look like the make a smaller version.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LCX05-10pcs-Model-Railway-Lamppost-lamps-Street-Lights-HO-OO-TT-Scale-LEDs-NEW/630387_32253950971.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.eblTox

 

Also stumbled across wired smd leds using magnet wire at EVE models! They are 8mm apart (4' scale) and come in different lengths. All wired in parallel so need a resistor to pull current down for 3v forward voltage for the parallel leds.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/LIGHT/630387_251865470/2.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.5xvFeD&SortType=bestmatch_sort&g=y

 

I've ordered leds from eve models on ebay before and they are decent quality and price.

 

Jeff

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how about these from Greenmax:

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10248202

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10248195

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10435453

 

I think these kits can be wired with a small LED to become a lighted signal ~

 

 

These are great. Signalling will probably be a future project. I'll bookmark these for later. 

 

For now I'm looking for LED Lamp posts to substitute for the plastics post lights on the platforms themselves.

Edited by gavino200
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I knew I had seen it somewhere! Yes eve models has one in Ho, but adjustable height, but the lamp would be like 3" in dia. Doesn't look like the make a smaller version.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LCX05-10pcs-Model-Railway-Lamppost-lamps-Street-Lights-HO-OO-TT-Scale-LEDs-NEW/630387_32253950971.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.eblTox

 

Also stumbled across wired smd leds using magnet wire at EVE models! They are 8mm apart (4' scale) and come in different lengths. All wired in parallel so need a resistor to pull current down for 3v forward voltage for the parallel leds.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/LIGHT/630387_251865470/2.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.5xvFeD&SortType=bestmatch_sort&g=y

 

I've ordered leds from eve models on ebay before and they are decent quality and price.

 

Jeff

 

 

Agree. Those LED strips look perfect for the platform canopy. There are some 4cm light posts on the later pages that might work too.

 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LCX05-10pcs-Model-Railway-Lamppost-lamps-Street-Lights-HO-OO-TT-Scale-LEDs-NEW/630387_32253950971.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.f1N13G

 

Great site!

Edited by gavino200
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Gavin,

 

That's the same pole I linked. They have it so the base can slide up the pole so you can vary the height to what ever you want and the extra is good support in your baseboard hole. But top is still like 3' dia scale, so a bit big compared to the kato at like 1' or so.

 

Yeah aliexpress is a good option to search for stuff. Many sell on ebay from same sellers, but different combos and pricing sometimes. I've found it handy for larger orders that are not on ebay or discounted for volume purchase much at all. Also some shipping options at times which can speed things up or get better tracking.

 

Btw I've had the worst shipping luck larger and heavier packages from china, so those I try to get tracked shipping

 

Jeff

  • Like 1
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Gavin,

 

That's the same pole I linked. They have it so the base can slide up the pole so you can vary the height to what ever you want and the extra is good support in your baseboard hole. But top is still like 3' dia scale, so a bit big compared to the kato at like 1' or so.

 

Yeah aliexpress is a good option to search for stuff. Many sell on ebay from same sellers, but different combos and pricing sometimes. I've found it handy for larger orders that are not on ebay or discounted for volume purchase much at all. Also some shipping options at times which can speed things up or get better tracking.

 

Btw I've had the worst shipping luck larger and heavier packages from china, so those I try to get tracked shipping

 

Jeff

 

Oops. So it is. I think I'll keep looking for a smaller one, but it's a contender. 

 

Thanks for the heads up on larger orders from China. Good to know.

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Gavin,

 

That last one is on ebay and aliexpress, didn't post it as you were looking for the kato match there.

 

Jeff

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Gavin,

 

That last one is on ebay and aliexpress, didn't post it as you were looking for the kato match there.

 

Jeff

 

I'm not so much looking for a match as something that would "fit". Something modern that wouldn't look out of place. I'm sort of using the Kato piece as a guide.

 

Edit: Perhaps I did originally think I would just swap out the Kato dummy with an active replica. I was probably just being lazy.

Edited by gavino200
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I placed my LED light strip right onto the roof of the lowered ceiling portion:

 

attachicon.gif20160502_202908.jpg

attachicon.gif20160502_203207.jpg

attachicon.gif20160502_202914.jpg

attachicon.gif20160502_203230.jpg

 

I use white LED, although I strongly recommend installing a resistor as you might see my lights are WAY too bright...

 

Although when the glue becomes weaken the strip tends to fall downwards.... Do beware of the signs that hand out from the ceiling, and the light strip needs to pass through them carefully...

 

Do you have feeding wires going to each platform segment separately? I mean are you still able to take your platform apart segment by segment? Or are all the segments wired together with the LED strips?

 

If each segment is wired separately, what method do you use to discretely get the wires from the base to the canopy?

 

If they are all wired continuously, do you use connectors between segments?

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After accidentially knocking over a box, i found my ttrak platforms!

 

post-1969-0-08337000-1492417079_thumb.jpg

post-1969-0-69362000-1492417246_thumb.jpg

post-1969-0-74782600-1492417425_thumb.jpg

The leds are soldered to brass circuit board connector pins, then the whole circuit is bent to the v shape of the roof and hotglued there. The 2nd picture shows the leds turned up to 12, as i was using a wall adapter without the brightness control circuit. The 3rd picture shows to leds and the rods through the clear station roof.

  • Like 2
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Do you have feeding wires going to each platform segment separately? I mean are you still able to take your platform apart segment by segment? Or are all the segments wired together with the LED strips?

 

If each segment is wired separately, what method do you use to discretely get the wires from the base to the canopy?

 

If they are all wired continuously, do you use connectors between segments?

 

Hi there...

 

They are in one continuous strip, i.e. I cant dismantle the platform roofs without cutting the stripes. I need to remove the ENTIRE roof in one piece as the LED is in a long strip, stuck to the underside of the platform. I find this easier to work with as I would only have to connect just one strip to the mains... This only works for the ground level station though...

 

For the overhead station, I had to use 2 strips that will meet halfway in the centre of the station, as the wires will then run into the station box below for concealment. Having one continuous strip will mean you need wire connectors at the ends which will be ugly and messy, so I push everything to the centre to join together with the lights for the station entrance and shops then to the mains, like so:

 

post-819-0-86619400-1492422486_thumb.jpg

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After accidentially knocking over a box, i found my ttrak platforms!

 

attachicon.gifrsz_lenovo_a1000_img_20170417_094212.jpg

attachicon.gifrsz_lenovo_a1000_img_20170417_094047.jpg

attachicon.gifrsz_lenovo_a1000_img_20170417_094344.jpg

The leds are soldered to brass circuit board connector pins, then the whole circuit is bent to the v shape of the roof and hotglued there. The 2nd picture shows the leds turned up to 12, as i was using a wall adapter without the brightness control circuit. The 3rd picture shows to leds and the rods through the clear station roof.

 

Very nice work! Thanks for posting the pictures.

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Gavin,

 

That wrapping wire I'm always talking about comes in a neutral grey and can snake down the back of the roof columns well, or use like 30g magnet wire which is very slim. Magnet wire is great when you need to hide wires, but you have to be careful not to bend it to hard or you can crack the lacquer insulation or even the wire. Also burning off the lacquer insulation to solder is a pain and best to dab some nail polish on it after you solder to reinsulate back the wire a little bit.

 

You can then use small plugs under the platform to daisy chain them. Make plugs from the 40 pin connectors

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/11275-pc-board-connector-plugs/?hl=%2B40+%2Bpin+%2Bround+%2Bconnector

 

Or use the micro jst connectors

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-Micro-JST-PH-1-25-2-PIN-MALE-FEMALE-PLUG-CONNECTOR-WITH-WIRE-CABLES-CP-/332068526980?hash=item4d50d39b84:g:IjwAAOSwA3dYWfW3

 

Then just cut a little slit in each end of the platform in the same spot on each to snake the connector wires between them.

 

Jeff

  • Like 1
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Hi there...

 

They are in one continuous strip, i.e. I cant dismantle the platform roofs without cutting the stripes. I need to remove the ENTIRE roof in one piece as the LED is in a long strip, stuck to the underside of the platform. I find this easier to work with as I would only have to connect just one strip to the mains... This only works for the ground level station though...

 

For the overhead station, I had to use 2 strips that will meet halfway in the centre of the station, as the wires will then run into the station box below for concealment. Having one continuous strip will mean you need wire connectors at the ends which will be ugly and messy, so I push everything to the centre to join together with the lights for the station entrance and shops then to the mains, like so:

 

attachicon.gifIMG_2219 (800x598).jpg

 

Thanks JR. Sorry to nag you with questions. I'm trying to learn from other people's experience, rather than struggling to reinvent the wheel.

 

Your overhead station looks amazing btw. I love the lower level shops and station entrance, I found myself looking for the station stamp out of habit :)

Edited by gavino200
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Gavin,

 

That wrapping wire I'm always talking about comes in a neutral grey and can snake down the back of the roof columns well, or use like 30g magnet wire which is very slim. Magnet wire is great when you need to hide wires, but you have to be careful not to bend it to hard or you can crack the lacquer insulation or even the wire. Also burning off the lacquer insulation to solder is a pain and best to dab some nail polish on it after you solder to reinsulate back the wire a little bit.

 

You can then use small plugs under the platform to daisy chain them. Make plugs from the 40 pin connectors

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/11275-pc-board-connector-plugs/?hl=%2B40+%2Bpin+%2Bround+%2Bconnector

 

Or use the micro jst connectors

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-Micro-JST-PH-1-25-2-PIN-MALE-FEMALE-PLUG-CONNECTOR-WITH-WIRE-CABLES-CP-/332068526980?hash=item4d50d39b84:g:IjwAAOSwA3dYWfW3

 

Then just cut a little slit in each end of the platform in the same spot on each to snake the connector wires between them.

 

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff. I'm going to do this. Those connectors look perfect.

 

I'll probably go with gray 30g wire and try to make it look like it belongs there. Magnet wire seems like a great idea but it's fairly horrible to work with. 

Edited by gavino200
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