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dmustu

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  1. And success! This was testing on dc. Next jobs are to insulate the soldered joints from extending the wires, alter the position of one of the LED's, and fit the decoder when it arrives in the post. I will update as and when...
  2. The board in place, with the motor terminals clipped to the board. The blu tack is temporary! Unfortunately the original pick up wires are too short to reach the connection on the board, so will need extending a bit.
  3. Hello All, Having a break from the kiha 40 build, I looked at dcc'ing a kato dd51. I had not removed the body from the dd51, just looked up on the net about dcc for the dd51 and from what I saw, the loco was not dcc ready, but some had used the circuit board for the ef65 to dcc the dd51. So, I ordered a circuit board. A bit later I got round to taking the body of the dd51 and found that it was already fitted with the same circuit board as an ef65, complete with 8 pin socket! With the ordered circuit board already in the post, I got round to thinking what else I could use it for. I have a number of Tomix ho models, non of which are dcc ready. Some time ago I got a mint second hand ef81, and with it being a similar shape to the ef65, I thought that swapping the Tomix circuit board for the Kato one should be possible, and am pleased to report it is. The original board is easy to remove, as nothing is soldered to it. Unplug the wires, remove the clips for the motor connectors (keep the clips), and then unclip the board from the chassis. Next, remove the clips on the chassis that are for holding the original board in place, as the Kato board will sit on top of the plastic dividers each side of the motor. The motor terminals attach to the Kato board by the number 15 on the cutting mat, place the contacts on the underside of the board and use the clips from the original board to secure the contacts in place. The wires from the pickups attached to where number 16 is on the mat. Also, please note that on the left hand side of the motor, you need to remove some of the plastic in the middle of the divider, this is to allow clearance for the gold coloured component on the left side of the Kato board. Position the board with the underside of the dcc socket (right hand side on board) on the flywheel side of divider. It's tight, but the socket will be clear of the flywheel.
  4. Kiha 40 Build

    And here's the kiha 40 kit completed. Although the kit itself is complete there's still some work to be done on the model, I still need to do some work on the interior, add some details like windscreen wipers and air pipes, reduce the brightness of the interior lights, add weight to improve the running qualities as the model is quite light, and some light weathering to complete.
  5. Kiha 40 Build

    Hello KVP, the kit is not the easiest thing to photograph, but here you go. Interesting idea swapping the polarities, but i'm not sure how easy it would be to do, as the kit is a long thin circuit board, coated in white plastic covering. I decided to carry on with assembling the kit, removing the lights to mod for dcc will be straight forward, if possible to do.
  6. Thanks for taking the time to post, it's interesting to see what's going on in Indonesia. Do you have any pictures of other types of train running in Indonesia that you would be able to post?
  7. Kiha 40 Build

    I have been working on body construction. Thanks for the suggestion Kvp, i have played around with the lighting kit, but it is not really suitable for dcc. The lights connect to the chassis with a 4 pin plug, testing the pins with a transformer, the head and tail lights are not wired up as expected. One pin is a common return, one is connected to the tail lights, one to headlights, one to interior lights. Connect a positive wire to the common, negative to the other 3 will give headlights one end, tail lights the other and interior lights. To get the lights to change direction, reverse the polarity. From what I can workout, connecting these to a decoder means that you will only get correct lighting in one direction! It's a pity that one pin only does red lights, one does white, if one pin did white one end, red the other, then dccing the lights would be easy. Completed bodyshell
  8. Kiha 40 Build

    Got the chassis built, was quite easy to do as it all screws together. I have decided not to dcc it at the present time, getting the motor connected to a decoder looks pretty straightforward, as it is connected to the chassis by 2 wires. Disconnect the wires from the chassis, red and black decoder wires connected to the chassis, orange and grey ones to the motor. It's the lights i'm not to sure about at the moment.
  9. Hello All, On a visit to Japan in 2017, I came back with a Neko Publishing Kiha 40 kit and chassis. Recently delivered was the lighting kit for it, and since moving house mid last year, I now have the space to build it! I also got some Kadee No. 5 couplers for it, rather than use the plastic couplers in the kit, and some seating to go in it, as the kit is not supplied with any interior detail. I wanted to use the interior from a Kato oha 12, but couldn't find any so got a Tomix ohafu 50 interior instead. It will need some adjustment, but should look ok when done, certainly better than no interior! I'm not yet sure if i'll dcc it yet or not, depends on the chassis and my limited electrical knowledge. So, I will post updates here for anyone interested in the build and will be no doubt asking for some advice from you during the build. Thanks, Stuart.
  10. Adding Parts

    Thanks for that, thought i'd have a break from adding parts to loco's, I've got some Kato coaches to add numbers to so thought I'd do those next.
  11. Adding Parts

    Hello, Got my first one almost done. I have to say almost as I managed to lose one windscreen wiper, and I don't have any spares! Once again, thanks for the tips and advice, just the rest to to now! One quick question tho, do the decals that come some of the models tend to be water slide ones?
  12. Adding Parts

    Thanks for the advice, and the links to the tools. I'd have never thought of dental files or gem stickers!
  13. Hello, After a recent house move I now have space to do some modelling. I have finally got round to start fitting the detailing parts that come with the models, some are quite easy to fit and some not! So, before losing any more bits into the abyss otherwise known as carpet, do any of you have any tips or advice for fitting these parts, and any recommended tools for the job? I have some tools but an struggling with some parts, would rubber tipped tweezers be useful,or not worth it? Many Thanks, Stuart.
  14. Chiltern DMU's Retired 19/05/17

    Still plenty of slam door trains in the UK, mostly in the form of MK3 coaches. Chiltern operate one set of slam door MK3's, all HST trains are still slam door, but there are plans afoot to fit power operated sliding doors on many of the HST sets, and Anglia's intercity services are formed of MK3 coaches too. MK2's can be found in small numbers with a couple of operators, and charter operators are using mostly slam door MK2 and MK1 coaches. Such vehicles don't have to operate on their own track if not up to modern crash standards, but they do have to have door locking, MK2 and MK3 coaches still in service were fitted with a Central Door Locking system in the late 1980's. Charter operators with their MK1 coaches simply added a bolt on the inside of the door. And in the case of the Chiltern dmu's, as well as the door locking system, they also had to have GSMR radio's, TPWS and Data Recorders fitted to be able to run on the national network. They were also fitted with forward facing CCTV not too long ago.
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