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  1. dmustu

    Japanese H0 Lima Trains.

    The blue and gold boxes were used in the later years of Lima, I'd guess from the early 1990's until they ceased trading. Boxes from the 1980's were silver and red. The only other Lima model I have is a 117 dmu from the 80's in the silver/red boxes.
  2. dmustu

    Japanese H0 Lima Trains.

    Hello, I recently came across a Lima Shinkansen on ebay, and got it for a reasonable price. The model is a bit beat up, it smells of tobacco and has yellowed, more through nicotine than age! Some of the paint has chipped, the pantographs and ariels above the cabs are broken, and it looks like the previous owner has added some extra pick ups rather crudely. But apart from that, it's ok. I got it as a bit of a restoration project, clean it up, repaint it, new pantographs and ariels, should be ok. I might look at replacing the wheels and possibly re-motor/fit dcc if I can be bothered!
  3. Nice! Is there any instructions for them regarding DCC?
  4. dmustu

    Container Compatability (HO)

    I find that the Tomix KOKI's hubs don't spin, the Kato ones do. However, when running a train with both Tomix and Kato KOKI's, you can't tell that some are spinning and some are not at normal viewing distances.
  5. dmustu

    Converting a DE10 to DCC (HO)

    The body has 4 clips, one each side at front and by the cab, the cab itself is attached to the main body, not the chassis. A gentle squeeze and pull at each end should release the body. Might be easier to start at the long bonnet end.
  6. dmustu

    Converting a DE10 to DCC (HO)

    Hello, This might help - The DE10 is easy to fit a chip to, I would recommend a small direct plug in chip, as space for the chip is limited. Something like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/With-Built-In-8-pin-NMRA-NEM652-plug-DCC-LOCO-DECODER-WITH-4-FUNCTION-FOR-MODEL/32817050052.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.72.507f4c02s1OZJO&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10341_10548_5722915_10698_10697_5722615_10696_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_5722715_10059_5723015_10184_10534_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=cd642c15-05a3-46dd-ac21-53ab5977f3a8-10&algo_pvid=cd642c15-05a3-46dd-ac21-53ab5977f3a8&priceBeautifyAB=0
  7. Headlight on. Headlight off. The red leds are attached to the function 3 and 4 on the decoder, so they can be operated independently of the headlights. The camera makes the red look a bit pink in the photo, but to the naked eye the colour is much more red than it appears in the pictures!
  8. Grey boxes with leds fitted, reattached onto the chassis. Once done, all you need to do is fit the decoder, attach the wires, and seal the leds in with some blu tack to prevent red light leaking into the headlight lens. The model came with yellow leds fitted for the headlights, so I swapped these for some soft white leds to improve the appearance.
  9. The box with the holes made. At the front is where the led will sit, middle and back are for the wires to pass through the box into the body. Led fitted.
  10. Hello all, I have been adding the detail parts and dcc'ing a Kato ef58 that i've had for some time. When I took the body off, I noticed that there are guides above the cabs for tail lights, as well as the headlights. Shining a light through the body confirmed that the light was delivered to the lenses for the tail lights, so I set about adding some leds to illuminate the tail lights, as there is space to do so. Inside the ef58. LEDs can be added to the grey box at either end of the model. I used 3mm LEDs, pre wired with a resistor. Grey box removed. The guide for the headlight lens goes through the gap on the left, you need to drill a hole on the right hand side for the light to pass through.
  11. Decoder fitted. I used a thin bit of card glued over the drive shaft as a base to mount the decoder on. The decoder came with attachments for a capacitor. There is a handy cut out inside the body which the capacitor fits in nicely, secured in with a little bit of blu tack. I had to reduce the length of the decoder plug contacts by 1mm or so, as the contacts were quite long and the plug stood a little high, making it awkward to fit the body. Success! Now to add the detail parts....
  12. And success! This was testing on dc. Next jobs are to insulate the soldered joints from extending the wires, alter the position of one of the LED's, and fit the decoder when it arrives in the post. I will update as and when...
  13. The board in place, with the motor terminals clipped to the board. The blu tack is temporary! Unfortunately the original pick up wires are too short to reach the connection on the board, so will need extending a bit.
  14. Hello All, Having a break from the kiha 40 build, I looked at dcc'ing a kato dd51. I had not removed the body from the dd51, just looked up on the net about dcc for the dd51 and from what I saw, the loco was not dcc ready, but some had used the circuit board for the ef65 to dcc the dd51. So, I ordered a circuit board. A bit later I got round to taking the body of the dd51 and found that it was already fitted with the same circuit board as an ef65, complete with 8 pin socket! With the ordered circuit board already in the post, I got round to thinking what else I could use it for. I have a number of Tomix ho models, non of which are dcc ready. Some time ago I got a mint second hand ef81, and with it being a similar shape to the ef65, I thought that swapping the Tomix circuit board for the Kato one should be possible, and am pleased to report it is. The original board is easy to remove, as nothing is soldered to it. Unplug the wires, remove the clips for the motor connectors (keep the clips), and then unclip the board from the chassis. Next, remove the clips on the chassis that are for holding the original board in place, as the Kato board will sit on top of the plastic dividers each side of the motor. The motor terminals attach to the Kato board by the number 15 on the cutting mat, place the contacts on the underside of the board and use the clips from the original board to secure the contacts in place. The wires from the pickups attached to where number 16 is on the mat. Also, please note that on the left hand side of the motor, you need to remove some of the plastic in the middle of the divider, this is to allow clearance for the gold coloured component on the left side of the Kato board. Position the board with the underside of the dcc socket (right hand side on board) on the flywheel side of divider. It's tight, but the socket will be clear of the flywheel.
  15. dmustu

    Kiha 40 Build

    And here's the kiha 40 kit completed. Although the kit itself is complete there's still some work to be done on the model, I still need to do some work on the interior, add some details like windscreen wipers and air pipes, reduce the brightness of the interior lights, add weight to improve the running qualities as the model is quite light, and some light weathering to complete.