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About gavino200

  • Birthday 09/07/1972

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  1. This kind of thing for the cops would be great. These are from Taiwan. https://en.rocketnews24.com/2013/10/21/taiwanese-government-introduces-terrifying-special-forces-clone-army/
  2. I'm talking about this stuff: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Install-Bay-INSTAC-Instant-Set-Accelerator-2-oz/28829741?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=8959&adid=22222222227019238168&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838829872&wl4=pla-78651987872&wl5=9024589&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115786984&wl11=online&wl12=28829741&wl13=&veh=sem Super-glue accelerator. I don't use it much, but sometimes it's a lifesaver. Except I HATE how it smells. I usually don't mind solvents, but this......Ugh! It's the most god-awful stuff I've ever smelled. Horrible sickly sweet and nauseateing. I can't even describe how terrible it is. And the next day, I swear the 'after smell' is even worse. Almost like stale piss. It takes forever for things to not smell of this stuff. So my question: Is the smell from the chemical itself, or from some kind of additive? Is it possible to get insta-cure that is a bit less vomitous?
  3. Something a little different - Irish T-Trak

    Nope. I'm was a suburban child from Dublin. I've only seen that green countryside on vacations. I had HO (OO) as a kid. But the only HO we have now are for running around the house, directly on the floor, with a DC controller. These days it gets some heavy competition from remote control electric Lego trains that also run around the house. I was at that site trying to source an N-scale version of one of those Orange & Black 1980's CIE trains. They're hideous really, but have sentimental value for me.
  4. Using a DCC decoder to power a length of track

    That's a pretty nifty idea. It would allow you to run non-convertible stock with DCC control. Portrams spring to mind. IIRC that's what this system is used for at Sumida Crossing. I wouldn't feel comfortable using it on anything but a designated closed loop though. Otherwise if you forget to trip the switch and run the wrong stock you'll see sparks pretty quick. I think KenS warned about this risk on SC. Unfortunately, I don't have any room on my layout for a designated loop, or even a reversing straight line track. Otherwise I'd install a portram in a heartbeat. Maybe a bus service too.
  5. Sorry for posting something so un-Japanese. I recently discovered this while discussing a rolling stock issue with some Irish guys. I've never seen Irish T-Trak before, but I grew up in Ireland and I can tell you that this guy has the look of the country down close to perfect. Anyway, I thought you guys might appreciate the artistry. http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/4478-n-gauge-t-trak/
  6. E5 Hyabusa motor problem

    I agree there are a few other issues. The stock Kato diffusers are difficult to master. Most of those problems can be avoided by using TORMs. I think they look better than the most expertly installed Kato lights anyway. But this bogie pickup problem was completely off my radar. Maybe the E5 needed a while to warm up after being an ornament for almost a year. It's climbing the gradient now with no change of speed, with all 10 cars. Too bad I ordered a second EMU for it last night from Nariichi. I overhauled the coppers on my E6 since the last post. All except 2 of the TORMs are shining perfectly now with no flicker. Two still flicker. I'll take out the coppers and work them a bit more. Maybe tomorrow. Getting the kinks out isn't super easy btw. But I've come up with a kind of method. I originally tried to overcompensate with a downward curve but, I discovered that, like you say it affects the bogie motion. It's really a very fine balance. The best result is when the coppers are perfectly straight, or with the tiniest, almost imperceptible downward curve. It's hard to get the kink out without creating a new kink. Here's what works: 1. Run the copper between the thumb tip and the pad of the index finger tip. It smooths the copper out, but it also curves it like a ribbon to an almost comical degree. It did it unintentionally at first and nearly soiled myself. 2. Then turn the copper over and 'ribbon' it in the opposite direction. This gets the last trace of kink out. 3. Then turn it over again and ribbon it back the other way with much less pinch force. 4. Keep doing this with less and less force until the copper is completely even and straight. The tiniest curve bowing downward is ok, maybe beneficial, but makes it more difficult to close the casing. I tried to find a way to fix the copper without completely removing them from the shell. As far as I can tell, it can't be done.
  7. E5 Hyabusa motor problem

    Wow! I just realized I have the same problem on almost all of my passenger cars. It's the reason why I could never get the Kato or even TORM interior lights to reliably work. They tend to flicker and need to be tapped to work. They almost always light up when light downward pressure is applied to the coaches. I'm also sure I know the reason for this. We started the N-scale train endeavor when my son was very young. To my mild irritation he always used to get the units railed by running them over and back over the Kato crossover/rerailer track. Years ago I frequently had to tell him not to push down on the cars. The cars that date back to this earliest period are the worst effected. I always assumed it was my installation. Frequently, (as recent as this week) people here mentioned that they never had this problem. I've always, taken that with a mixture of near-disbelief and shame for not being able to master such a simple installation!! I'm sooooo freakin' releaved to have found the cause of this five year nightmare.
  8. What did you do on your layout today?

    That burning building is amazing. Is there a thread where you describe how you made it? Do you mind sharing?
  9. I'd like to add a militarized police force to our layout. First, I'm a sci-fi fan and I like the slight dystopian edge it gives. Second our favorite trainplay is "cops'n'robbers" or a multitude of spinoff variations. I started looking into this around five years ago. Most of our cop cars are US style as this pre-dated our Japanese transition. I had a hard time finding n scale armored vehicles. All that I could find in any quality were these 'Peacekeepers'. The surface is a bit rough as I didn't know the "Acetone trick" back then. I painted them myself, but I really wanted to add some police decals. I wasn't able to find good ones small enough. I'm going to have another go at this in a few months, so I'll start trying to source models and materials. Let me know if y'all know of any suitable models. I found a few good armored vehicles on shapeways in N scale including, MRAPs and Casspirs. I don't like the ones that have no windows. I'm hoping to add clear plastic to make windows for the ones with empty frames. Also, I'd like to acquire figures. SWAT team (or equivalent figures) or riot police would be great. I could used soldiers but most that I've seen are pointing their weapons. I'd prefer them to be holding their weapons in a treatening but defensive fashion. Anyone know of a good source for N scale figures of this kind. I really don't want to make a habit of painting N scale figures, but I'd happily make an exception in this case. These are our cop cars - predating Japanese transition except for two units. I bought the cars already painted from ebay. Here are the 'Peacekeepers'. 3D models from Shapeways. The model surface is fairly rough. Hand painted by yours truly. The armored personnel carriers on the right were bought to turn into police vehicles. I'd like to source police decals for these. I'm interested in this MRAP from shapeways. The bottom of these models is usually open. I'm going to try to get in there with fine pickups to add "glass" to the windscreen. Green translucent plastic for bulletproof glass would be great. https://www.shapeways.com/product/KM7HTYBU6/mrap-ver-15?optionId=57208593 Casspirs are badass. But unfortunately solid windows. https://www.shapeways.com/product/QKGHXYS23/mrap-ver-22-casspir-ver-2?optionId=57208621&li=marketplace
  10. M-497 "Black Beetle" - Jet powered train

    Interestingly, (to me) it looks like the soviets has a go at virtually the same concept. This weird YouTube video (eerie music) was suggested to me today by the YouTube algorithm because of my recent searches. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbojet_train
  11. Any updates on this project?
  12. Did this project ever pan out? Do you have any pictures of the finished scene?
  13. Any update on this? Would love to see how this turned out.
  14. E5 Hyabusa motor problem

    Yes, the Doctor Yellow EMU is exactly the same length so that will work as a copper strip & contact donor. But the casing is different so it won't work to power the dummy EMU.
  15. E5 Hyabusa motor problem

    Thanks. That's a great idea. I was also thinking of getting a second EMU anyway for the E5. It slows a bit going up the gradient with all 10 cars. It sort of detracts from the effect. I thought I'd have to buy a new starter set, but I'd much rather get just the motor unit. I wonder if the Doctor yellow would be a fit. Thank you for the kind offer of the copper strip. But mine works now. And I'd like to switch both out anyway. But it's appreciated :)