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kvp

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Budapest, Hungary
  • Interests
    Japanese trains and train models in N gauge.

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  1. Are those 25 meter or 26.4 meter cars? As those restaurant cars were the first long cars that are standard nowdays. How about halberstadter coaches (ddr stadteexpress wagen, 1978) or the UIC-X-wagen or anything built in the last 10-15 years? The length difference is very small and many cross border trains still use the shorter cars but the newer ones are longer. Anything built in ep.6 or 7 would probably have the longer 26.4 meter length. Or even longer for the newest 27.9 meter DBAG cars. (i'm assuming most of your cars are older ep.3, 4 and maybe 5 cars and DB or similar western types and 25 meter long or below)
  2. Thanks! Unfortunately those middle cars are the modern standard 26.4 meter long ones, so pretty much all modern cars need some extra cutting over the 25 meter shinkansan inserts.
  3. It could be a training set or still waiting for the rest of its cars to arrive. Is there a mapping of cars to rebuilt sets and any info what happens with the leftover ones?
  4. Thanks! I'll have to try and get some of these. The best would be a variable tool that you can set various rectangle sizes (a/b lengths) and puch in one go, but using corners and punching 4 times while aligned could also work. I'm using at most 1 mm thick styrene, so it's probably punchable.
  5. kvp

    Lighting Trains

    One of the tricks is CA glue. You put a small amount on the bottom of the component between the pads with a toothpick. Then glue it on. Wait till it dries and then touch the tip of the iron to the top metal pad part of the component and then the thin solder with the no clean rosin flux inside towards the bottom, near the board and it will solder easily. You can solder two pads together too, so by leaving the original cap there, gluing the new ones next to it and soldering them together, you don't have to position the new ones too carefully just put them next the installed part.
  6. kvp

    Lighting Trains

    With 12V, a rectifier bridge and this many leds 660 ohm sets around the maximal current the leds tolerate. Normally one would use 1k or 1.5k, which means 570 ohm x 2 or 720 ohm x 2. In your case. you might want to leave one of the 330 ohms in place and add 1k or 1.5k, giving you 1.3k and 1.8k. If you go above 4k or 5k, the leds might not turn on at all or get lit up quite uneven. (there is a minimal turn on voltage and current for each led based on the material it's built out and it varies very slightly within the same batch, pretty much like resistor values) I would also add an extra buffer cap or two between the rectrifier and the resistors. (onto both sides of the small filter cap sitting vertically just right the rectifier chips)
  7. Is there a simple way to cut out windows consistently on a building? Possibly in one go without lots of filing...
  8. Did you loose power on the frog rail, split frog plate or just after the joiner? The latter is the best case as in that case the turnout is ok. I still think the switch contacts might have something in them. Or you have used a more than 1 amp controller and shorted through the turnout contacts. The fix for that is to just gently scrape the contacts of the black residue after removing the bottom. Or just try to throw it manually a few dozen times and see if it helps.
  9. I think i get why the stripes are on the top, that's the only visible area in case of platform doors and side ads. The angled cutoff was used on many late JNR era trains. I would like to see the new self steering bogies though. (these just seem to be the transfer ones)
  10. It could be caused by ballast or glue getting into the turnout mech. You can try shaking or gently vacuuming it to get it out. If it's the ballasting glue though, that's a bigger problem.
  11. I think he meant a bit of a top cover plate to keep the adapter level with the rapido head. Essentially a piece of styrene with a rapido and a Kato coupler glued to the bottom. The rapido side is held up by the rapido coupler on the connected car, while the Kato side is held up by the Kato coupler. On the other hand, Tomix makes official TN to rapido adapters, so you just pop them onto the TN head like on the prototype.
  12. Tomytec has two railside noises boxes and afaik one of them has a standard japanese crossing sound. You can swap the batteries with a wall adapter connection and add morse relays parallel to the pushbuttons for automated control.
  13. The basic rule is to look for diesel lines that join electrified mainlines near their terminus or diesel lines that are part electricified, usually on their suburban parts. In the first case, the diesels have to enter the terminus, so many times, they do this by going under the overhead wires if there is no dedicated diesel only part of the station. In the second case, the line might be split between diesel and electric parts with a change point at the last electrified station or some diesel services might run all the way from terminus to terminus.
  14. In Budapest the custom is to remove the cab walls when a line switches to full automatic mode. The rule is: no cab and you can walk up to the covered driving console = automatic train. Smaller kids like to sit on it so they could see out through the windshield.
  15. And i've been looking for it for a long time. I sent a p.m.
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