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kvp

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About kvp

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Budapest, Hungary
  • Interests
    Japanese trains and train models in N gauge.

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  1. What are the T-Trak "rules"?

    Well, i would like to add the HJMTC variant of ttrak: -we are using the classic 210 mm module depth (lengths are multiplies of 310 mm) so the scenery area is pretty narrow -and a height of 70 mm with the adjustable legs fully in stowed position (allowing scenery a maximal vertical depth of around 60 mm) -but building our track to the 33 mm alternate aka. mainline spacing of Kato track -with curves of 282 mm and 315 mm so most trains could run on the layout (including european ones and even shinkansen)
  2. M-497 "Black Beetle" - Jet powered train

    If you look at the prewar high speed sets of Germany (flying hamburger series, svt 877 and 137) and Japan (52 series), they look very similar on the outside but have different propulsion systems. The 52 series was closer to a modern emu and the diesel svt-s are still in production as the siemens desiro classic series. The series 0 shinkansen used the cutting edge technology that was available worldwide. Schlieren based bogies from Switzerland, 25kV AC traction with synchron (emu capable) tap changer control from the Siemens, Alsthom, AEG, M.F.Oerlikon, Brown-Boveri consortium (western Europe) and the classic married pair Mp-M design preferred by JNR for many cape gauge emu-s. This coupled with the higher stabiliy and larger loading gauge of standard gauge resulted in the high speed emu design we know today as the series 0. Many later high speed trains (like the TGV or the ICE1) were simple loco hauled sets with a locomotive on each end. The nose cone design is what made sense for most passenger aircraft at that time and it was copied into the series 0 design as an efficient low air resistance solution that prooved itself in both wind tunnel tests and irl. (modern designs also take the ground and tracks immediately below the train into consideration)
  3. M-497 "Black Beetle" - Jet powered train

    Both took after popular aircafts of their time. The german used a prototype german airliner and the japanese used the front of a popular us made airliner. With a small change of using flat windscreens instead of the curved ones seen on the prototype. For jet powered trains, i think the steel wheel on steel track solution turned out to be better near sea level, where most trains run. The usable jet technology would be actually turboshaft propulsion, but straight mechanical systems turned out to be error prone and laggy, while electrical systems never matured enough until the nearest oil crisis to have good enough fuel economy. Currently the best turbine based locomotive is an electric one with the turbines safely housed in a lineside power plant. If you look for the word's fastest turbine powered train, then imho the TGV prototype would be the winner. Then the oil crisis hit and the french changed to nuclear propulsion using electric locomotives fed from a transmission line network. ps: Sometimes i think about what if-s, like how to make a simple modern steam locomotive, but when i realise, that the state of the art solution would be to mount the steam motor between the bogies of a B-B or C-C locomotive and use driveshafts, like on a climax locomotive and the whole thing would be a boring boxcab, then i give up and realize, that a high speed emu (like the shinkansen) is the current best solution for conventional rail vehicles.
  4. I found multiple mentions about the two cars, that were part of the last running JREast set. It's even mentioned on wikipedia and seen in the background of an orchestra event, while they were playing in the old workshop. The whereabouts of the head cars are unknown, but they were supposedly donated to the Railway Museum in Saitama, which means out of the 6 last run cars, 4 are unaccounted for (two Tc and a Mp-M pair).
  5. Starting the "Doll Railway"

    Fortunately Tomix managed to solve the problem: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10368166 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10368167 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10368168 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10368166/30/1 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10368166/30/2 Still, i don't know if the 1:12 dolls you mentioned are similar to these 1:12 dolls on the pictures.
  6. One of the online shops in Germany (modellbahn union or dm-toys) has various N scale replacement wheelsets for cars and trucks. Real rubber and separate hubs, so also good for faller moving trucks.
  7. Starting the "Doll Railway"

    Some 1/12 info: Tomytec and a few others actually sell 1/12 railroad items, like working railroad switches (the handles) and station benches, gates and even some sectioned traincars for dolls to pose in. (i've seen classic coaches, modern commuter cars and even sleepers) Imho in 1/12, gauge 3 would be correct for cape gauge, while gauge 2 would be ok for narrow gauge. The loco you linked is used with that gauge for the Children's railway in Budapest, a line run for and by kids. It has some nice rolling stock, including shorter open side cars painted in nice colors. Or you could go the easy way and get the tomytec doll ride on railway sets using N gauge 1/12 scale cars. That would even fit on a table. One bit of warning though, these posable dolls are more like barbie type scale models and made in 1/12 as (young) adults. I don't know if you mean these or the child looking classic japanese dolls.
  8. Light shines trough cockpit.

    Certainly fixable (usually with a black lack marker pen), but i can't tell you if it's part of the design or an assembly error without the brand and product number. Edit: Found the info in another thread, still it could be an assembly error or a design mistake, which a bit of black ducktape or black paint could fix it. If it's still under warranty, i would ask the seller first.
  9. Room lighting suggestions?

    Any light that produces uv is bad. Standard lightbulbs make some, but the glass bulb filters out most of it. Halogen lights are very much like the sun, incuding the high uv content. Classic light tubes have a coating that converts the uv into visible light. Compact ones are not as good in this. Both are bad for the eyes though. Cold (bluish) led lights have some uv content, while warm led lights have a yellowish filter to convert this to visible light. The best are the led bulb lights that have an opaque white or yellowish white uv conversion cover, but they are expensive. So i would say, that classic glass bulb incadescents, high frequency warm white full length light tubes and warm white leds are all good. Avoiding direct sunlight and halogens is a good idea. My club uses light tubes only for cost reasons. The difference between the old 50Hz ones and the high frequency ones is also noticeable especially on videos as the latter isn't flickering. At home i use a single old 60 watts bulb and a 40 watts desk light (down from 5+1 bulbs, due to lack of maintenance and spare parts).
  10. Yesterday i decided to run a few koki-s and looked for a suitable locomotive. Then i discovered that my de10 still didn't have any running numbers on it, so i fixed that.
  11. Planning Aizu

    The gap is for the unitrack separation. No screwdriver needed, just twist sideways and the modules separate. It's also needed to allow unijoiners to fully pop in and make electrical contact, so the module bases don't have to be fully accurate. The gap is hidable with overhanging grass and other scenery on top and painting the sides (and the connecting faces) dark (like dark brown) also helps hide the shadows in the gaps.
  12. What did you order or the post deliver?

    I'll like to throw in one more idea or actually two. It's always a good thing to leave a bit of crash space between the nearest track and the edge of the layout, it could even contain some crash safe scenery, like a sturdy fence or some bushes. If it's a home layout you can add a narrow table with a small edge, slightly lower than the layout, partially to hold the controls, to have a space to unpack/pack your trains and as a low height difference catch area for anything that might happen to fall off. Imho plexiglass is good, as long as you don't try to take pictures. If there is a flash involved, it will be completly unusable. But it's good as a stopgap measure and for those edges that are usually not between you and the layout.
  13. Yes, i have a feeling that will get covered very soon by a larger manufacturer. :-)
  14. Why do they...?

    Imho it's a themed collection, not a period correct diorama set. Also good for the transition era. The old patrol car is the 1965-1971 design, so they were still in use when the modern cars arrived. This means it's usable roughly between 1965 and late 1990s. All four are Nissan police cars. (two unmarked and two normal)
  15. Under the layout lighting solution?

    My solution was to use a flexible desk lamp placed on the floor next to the table and set to point inwards and slightly up. A similar one that is used by pixar as a mascot. It's a good enough light and could actually flood a large area. If you are worried about heat, it's possible to get led bulbs for the classic edison sockets. Also doubles as a desk/workbench/reading lamp when not need under the table.
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